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m 

m 


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111= 

U    III  1.6 


Photographic 

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Corporation 


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1 

19X 

IfiX 

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24X 

28X 

32X 

I 


Ms 

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lifier 

ne 

age 


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premidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
In  dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  teile 
empreinte. 

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dernidre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbole  — ►  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbole  V  signifie  "FIN". 

Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  dtre 
filmAs  d  des  taux  de  r6duction  diffdrents. 
Lorsque  la  document  est  trop  grand  pour  dtre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  ciich6,  il  est  filmd  d  partir 
de  Tangle  supArieur  gauche,  de  gauche  d  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  ndcessaire  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  mSthode. 


rata 


elure, 


3 


32X 


I 


1  2  3 


1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

Modern  Antiquities: 

Comprising 

Sketches  of  Early  Buffalo 
and  the  Great  Lakes 


Also  Sketches  of  Alaska 


Bv  Barton  Atkins 


The  Courier  Company,  Printers  and  Binders 

Burtalo,  New  York 

1898 


«         -*  ^  ~* 


1%.::. }' 


C. 


■7  / 


EXPLANATION. 


This  writing  is  in  manner  provincial. 
Literary  merit  is  not  essayed,  anh  for 
its  demerits   no  apoloi'.y   is  ofkerki). 


;J^»>(  OF  C0*>^.^ 


TWOCnF'itS.HtGtIvED. 
IHCOPY,    Uc^V^^ 

180a.  n ™„    ,-..a\ 


Col'VHKjHTKD,    18H8, 

By    Barton    Atkins. 


I'- 

u. 


MODERN    ANTIQUITIES. 


CHAPTER    I. 


Av  the  burning  of  Huffalo  in  1818  its  earlier  m-- 
ords  were  destroyed.  From  recollectionH  of  early  res- 
idents, and  from  letters  of  early  travelers,  written 
hence,  were  construeted  a  history  of  the  early  trading- 
post  and  the  subsequent  village  of  New  Amsterdam. 

The  inunediate  aneestors  of  the  writer  were  early 
residents  of  the  locality,  and  of  its  legendary  lore  he 
was  invested  with  a  liberal  share,  which,  together  with 
the  records  of  the  reconstructed  village  of  Buffalo, 
form  a  basis  for  the  claim  that  such  history  as  is  herein 
presented  is  the  truth  of  it. 

About  the  year  1790  is  the  date  when  lame  the  first 
white  settler,  and  who  erected  the  first  building  where 
now  is  the  poj)ulous  city  of  Buttah).  The  historic 
pioneer  was  a  Hollander  and  aii  Indian  trader,  nan»ed 
Cornelius  Winne,  from  Fishkill  on  the  Hudson.  Thus, 
in  reality,  it  was  the  Hollander,  Winne,  and  not  Elli-" 
cott,  the  agent  of  HoUanders,  who  was  the  foimder 
of  Buffalo. 


:ff 


« 


MODKUN     ANTiylJlTIKS. 


Th«  coinmeiviiil  iiiiportiuioi!  of  Winiif'H  «l«)miiiii  was 
of  slow  fjrowtli  diinii}?  tlio  reiniiindt'i-  of  tht-  cuiituiy. 
Ill  171»l  Col.  TlioiiiiiH  I'foctor,  an  ciniHSiiry  of  the  Sec- 
retary of  War,  cauit'  to  \Vest«'ni  Now  York  to  tii-ut 
with  tilt-  Seneca  Iii<liaiis,  and  at  the  tradiii-'-post  he 
found  Wiiine,  and  a  iu'},'ro.  caHed  "  IMaek  .Io»',"  the 
oidv  sij;iiH  of  civilization. 

Four   yc^irs    later,  in   1795,  Capt.   Daniel    I)ol)ltins 
journeyed   from   the  "(Jencsee   Country"  to    I*res(|ue 
isle  (krie),  and  at   the  mouth  of   Buffalo  Creek   he 
rested  ft)r  a  day  with  Winiie  and   Black  Joe,  who  were 
then  partners  in  trade  with  the  Indians.     Captain  Dol)- 
hins  found  the  jiopulation  of  Wiime's  colony  doubled, 
by  the  addition  of  Johnston,  the  British  interpreter, 
and  the  Dutchman,  Middauf^h.     Capt.  Daniel  Dobbins 
was  not  only  an  early  |)ioneer  among  savage  life,  l>ut 
a  fighting  patriot  as  well.     Prior  to  the  war  of  1812 
he  was  sailing  the  waters  of  Lake  Erie,  master  of  the 
schooner   SaUnn,  and  when  war  eaiue  was  proiniil  to 
join  the  navy,  and  in  the  battle  of  Lake  Erie  was  com- 
mander of  the  Ohio,  one  of  Perry's  fighting  fleet.     All 
honor  to  the  inemory  of  Capt.  Daniel  Dobbins  ! 
.    Three  years  subseciuent  to  the  visit  of  Captain  Dob- 
bins, in    1798,  Albert    Brisbane    visited    the  trading- 
post  "Lake   Erie,"  and   found  its  poimlation  further 
increased.     "  There  were  five  or  six  h)g-houses.     In  one 
John  Palmer  kept  a  tavern,  in  one  lived  Asa  Kansom 
and  family,  in  another  James  Kobbins.  a  blacksmith, 
and  in  a  double  house  lived  Johnston,  the  interi)reter. 


8KETCIIKM    OK     KAKKY    nrKK.VI.O. 


Ill    Wits 

iitiiry. 

If  Sei!- 

trt)ut 

Dst  he 

tli*> 


and  Miililaiigli,  with  his  son-iii-hivv,  ii  man  naiiiftl 
K/.t*kiah  Laiu-,  who  was  a  coopfi-."  Mithhiu^'h  liad 
H(|uatt»'(l  over  tlic  «Tt!»'k,  altoiit  opposite  the  present 
foot  of  Main  Htr«et,  where  lie  lived  an  Indian  trader 
until  his  death,  in  IM'?'').  Lane  was  a  resiih-nt  in 
liiiffalo  uiitil  his  death,  in  18(5;") — a  eeiitenarian. 

Mr.  Hrishane  found  that  Winne  and  Black  ifoe  had 
sought  other  pastures— Winne  in  Canada,  and  .loe  on 
the  Cattaraugus  reservation,  where  he  lived  many 
years,  dying  at  an  advanced  age.  Joe  I  lodge  had 
lived  among  the  Indians  a  long  time,  spoke  their  lan- 
guage fluently,  and  had  an  Indian  family.  Was  said 
to  have  eseaj)ed  from  slavery  when  a  hoy,  and  took 
refuge  with  the  Seneeas. 

In  the  year  1800,  dating  from  Fort  Niagara,  Rev. 
Elkanah  lltdmes,  a  missionary  from  New  York,  wrote 
to  his  j)rineipals  as  follows: 

I  tlion  took  leave  of  him  (Farnicr's  Brother)  auil  wfiit  to  u 
villajfc  of  wliito  iieoplc  at  tlu'  moiitli  of  tlie  Biiffaloe.  While 
there,  where  I  made  my  home  during  my  visit  to  the  Sineeus,  I 
preached  to  the  whites  seven  or  eight  times.  They  never  laid 
lint  one  sermon  i)'.ear!ied  there  before. 

Historians  date  Mr.  Holmes'  first  appearance  in 
Western  New  York  in  1801,  and  to  him  they  give 
credit  of  ])reaching  the  first  sermon  in  Buffalo.  It 
appears  authoritively  that  he  was  there  in  1*0^',  and 
preached  seven  or  eight  times,  and  that  there  w.\h  one 
sermon  preached  there  before  his.  Mr.  Holmes  did 
not  name  the  preacher  of  the  first  sermon,  an  omission 


'*T*^\'.  Ay.vL.T.  I  ,. 


8 


MODKKN     ANTlgriTIKH. 


t  1 


fatal   to  a   coiiipU'te   rword  of    tlw  pmuliinj;  of    tlif 
(ios])*-l  in  HiiiYalo. 

Tin-  letter  liere  ([iioted,  to^'etlier  with  a  Hpeecli  made 
to  Mr.  Holmes  by  Farmer'H  Hrother,  and  another  hy 
Hed  Jacket,  the  eliief  SaehemH  of  the  Seneea  Nation, 
were  imhlished  in  the  \rir  Vork  Mixnioitiii-ij  Mat/nxhif 
of  Deeeniher,  IHOO.  Herein  is  the  first  reiMiltlieati<m 
of  the  letter  and  speeehes.* 

At  this  time  Mr.  Holmes  fmuul  five  or  six  families 
at  the  tradinfj-post,  hnt  does  not  mention  any  names. 
He  went  to  New  York  in  the  fall  of  1800,  hnt  re- 
tnrned  the  followinj,'  year  a  missionary  to  the  Senecas, 
remainiii<;  with  them  on  the  Hnft'ah)  Creek  Reservation 
nntil  1812. 

In  the  meantime  the  title  to  the  lands  adjaeent  to 
Lake  Krie  heeame  vested  in  the  Holland  Land  Com- 
]»any,  and  in  170!),  their  ajjent,  .IoHei)h  Ellieott.  ap- 
peared on  the  seene  with  a  corps  of  surveyors,  and  in 
the  following  year  he  mapi)ed  a  town  site  whi«h  he 
named  New  Amsterdam.  The  eligihle  h)cation  of  the 
town  site  tlrew  hither  many  prospectors,  sind  the  town 
increased  in  population  rapidly. 

The  first  mechanics,  other  than  jack-knife  carjienters, 
to  ply  their  trades  in  the  town,  were  James  Hobhins, 
the  blacksmith,  and  Ezekiel  Lane,  the  coojjer.  The 
fust  tavern  was  opened  by  one  Skinner,  in  1794.  He 
is  spoken  of  by  travelers  before  Palmer,  who  probably 

♦Ht>e  Appendix. 


HKKTCIIKft    OF    K.AUI  Y    HIKKAI.O. 


9 


!   i 


>f    the 
■il   llllKle 

|>tli('i'  l>y 
Nation, 
'(if/(tiltii' 
ilit'iitioii 

fiiiiiilicH 

iiaiiii's. 

I)ut  rt>. 

Sciu'caH, 

iTvatioii 

aci'iit  to 
1(1  Coin- 
cott.  ap- 
,  and  in 
k'liifli  lie 
n  of  the 
he  town 

])entei'8, 
iobhins, 
r.  The 
U.  He 
rohably 


MUC('»'«'(le<l  SkinntT.  Tin-  HrHt  civil  official  was  Asa 
KaiiHoni,  who  waH  appointed  jnsticc  of  the  peace  liy 
(iovernor  (Jeorge  Clinton,  in  IHOl. 

And  with  the  <"oniin<;  of  a  court  of  justice  ocemred 
the  first  inurder  in  the  town.  An  Indian,  called  Stitf- 
Arni  (leui-ge,  Htahhed  to  death  John  ilewett,  in  front 
of  Palnier'n  tavern.  The  nuinlerer  was  arrested  and 
tried  at  Canandaitrua.  In  his  defense  l{ed  Jacket 
addressed  the  jury,  citing  cases  <»f  white  men  killing 
Indians  and  not  punished  therefor,  as  a  reason  for  the 
ilischarge  of  the  prisoner.  The  cidprit  was  convicted, 
however,  and  sul>se(piently  pardoned  i)y  the  (lovernor 
on  condition  that  he  leave  and  remain  without  the 
state,  a  condition  faithfully  complied  with.  The  in- 
dustry of  hanging  Indians  in  HiiD'ah)  was  not  :ij)e  at 
that  early  perio«l. 

In  1803,  David  Keese,  a  hlacksmith,  came  to  the 
Senecas,  making  their  knives  and  hoes,  repairing  their 
guns,  etc.  P'or  Hed  Jacket  he  made  a  tomahawk,  which 
was  unsatisfactory  to  the  hig  Indian,  he  casting  it  on 
the  ground  with  the  utteratu-e,  "  No  good."  Then 
Heese  was  furnished  with  a  jiattern  of  a  w»'apon  desired 
hy  Red  Jacket,  and,  when  nuiking,  Ree^e  was  admon- 
ished tv  strictly  follow  the  model,  which  instrutition 
was  rigidly  observed,  and  the  illustrious  savage  had  a 
tomahawk  without  a  hole  therein  for  a  handle,  and  this 
is  why  he  ever  after  called  Kee.se  "  Damfool."  Reese's 
shop  stood  on  the  northeast  corner  of  Washington  and 
Seneta  streets,  a  frame  building  painted  red,  one  of 


>e.;?;>2..-.P.A"'-'  .j!  .s--^..-»i- 


ni''! 


■■  'W 


■■y':X";>-:Si:i.. 


7:3 


10 


MO  D  K  RN     A  XT I(i  UITIES. 


three  not  burned  by  the  Britisli,  and  where  the  bodies 
of  the  shiin  villagers  were  gathered  and  prei)ared  for 
bnrial.  The  little  red  shoj)  eontinned  to  adorn  that 
now  })ietures(uu'  corner  nntil  abont  1820. 

A  school-house  was  erected  in  1803 — a  house  of 
hewed  timber — on  Cayuga  street  (Pearl),  west  side, 
below  Swan, 

The  first  i)hysician  to  locate  in  New  Amsterdam  was 
Dr.  Cyrcnius  Chapin,  and  there  he  continued  to  reside 
nntil  his  death,  in  1838.  Dr.  Chapin  was  active  on 
the  frontier  during  the  war  of  1812,  and  valorous  in 
defense  of  Buffalo  in  troublous  times.  He  is  recalled 
as  a  tall,  si)ar('  and  gray-visaged  man,  wra])ped  in  a 
h):ig  cloak  of  blue  cloth. 

As  Indian  Agent,  .Judge  Erastus  (iranger  called 
Dr.  Chapin  to  attend  Ked  Jacket  in  his  illness.  The 
origir.al  bill  presented  to  Judge  Granger  for  this  ser- 
vice is  possessed  by  the  writer,  dated  December.,  1806. 

The  bill  of  Dr.  Chapin  reads  as  follows: 
Erastis  (Jhangeb,  Esq.,  Dr. 

To  CVIIENIUS  CHAI'IX. 

For  medical  iittuntion,  nml  for  iikhI.  dt'livered  to  lied  Jacket, 
Nov.   -),  180() : 

Two  Knif'tics,      .      .   • 4s. 

Croton  Oil  Pills Os. 

Sol.  Tartar  Eiiu'tii,- 3s. 

Spi(<  niid  Opium  Plaster 4s. 

Pills  of  Croton  Oil is. 

t'0.18.0 


SKETCHES    OF       AKLY    BUFFALO. 


11 


Lhe  bodies 
jpart'tl  for 
|<loni  tliat 

lioiise  of 
rtt'st  side, 

rdain  was 
to  reside 

active  on 

loroiis  in 
it'called 

)l)ed  in  ;i 

er  ealled 
L'ss.  The 
1'  tliis  ser- 
)er.,  1806. 


I'l.N. 

ed  Jacket, 


Item  Second. 

li)-Cftll 2m. 

(.'ntburtic, 2s. 

Sol.  of  (ilauber-salts 8s. 

Emetic  of  Powdered  Ipecac 4s. 

Pills  of  Croton  Oil 8s. 

i'O.l'Js.O 

fl.l's.O 
Keceived  I'ayiiient,  ButTalo  I'reek, 

Dec'r  14tli,  180(5.  Signed  duplicates, 

EllEN'll    WaLDEN.  Ci'ItENirS  ClIAPIX. 

Some  of  the  doses  thus  prescn-ihed  have  \)een  known 
to  kill  a  hor.se,  but  Red  Jacket  survived  the  treatment 
twenty-four  years,  a  pleasing  assurance  that  his  monu- 
ment in  Forest  Lawn  was  not  erected  in  vain. 

The  first  regular  mail  c^ame  from  Cunandaigua  on 
horseback,  in  1804.  Then  a  post-office  was  established, 
and  Erastus  Granger  appointed  postmaster. 

The  first  lot  devoted  to  burial  i)urj)ose  in  the  settle- 
ment was  the  one  now  the  northeast  corner  of  Wa.shing- 
ton  and  Exchange  streets.  There  interments  were  made 
until  the  "Village  Burial  Gromid'"  was  established — 
where  now  is  the  City  and  County  Hall — in  1808.  The 
first  interment  in  the  village  ground  was  the  body  of  a 
stranger,  who  died  suddenly  at  Barker's  tavern,  formt-ily 
Pomeroy's.  No  lots  were  sold  in  the  village  plot ;  burial 
permits  were  granted  by  the  trustees. 


12 


MODKKN    ANTigurriEs. 


In  1815,  tlie  fanioiis  Senwa  chief.  Planner's  Brother, 
was  buried  tliere  with  military  honors.  In  hiter  life  this 
native  wai-rior  was  fiii-ndly  and  loyal  to  the  whites,  and 
to  the  (iovernnient  of  the  United  States.  In  earlier  life 
he  led  the  war  party  whieh  oonnnitted  the  ghastly 
niassaere  of  liritons  at  Devil's  Hole,  on  the  Niagara. 

At  the  eomnieneenient  of  the  war  of  1812,  the 
sehooner  Coiniccttciif,  an  American  vessel,  when  an- 
chored oft"  the  mouth  of  Hutt'alo  Creek,  was  captured 
by  a  Hritish  party  from  Fort  Ev'm,  the  first  hostile  act 
of  the  war  on  the  frontier.  Soon  thereafter  two  Brit- 
ish vessels  were  anchored  near  shore,  under  the  guns 
of  Fort  Erie.  Lieutenant  Elliott,  of  the  navy,  then  at 
Jiuft'alo,  organized  an  expedition  to  cut  out  the  Brit- 
ishers under  cover  of  night,  and  his  success  was  coni- 
])lete.  for  whieh  Congress  vot^'d  that  heroic  officer  a 
sword.  Suhseijuently  Elliott  admitted  that  the  saga- 
cious Farmer's  Brother  pointed  out  to  him  the  feasi- 
bility of  his  expedition  to  capture  the  British  vessels, 
one  of  which  had  a  valuable  cargo  of  furs,  brought 
down  from  Lake  Huron. 

Interments  continued  in  the  village  plot  until  183G, 
the  wife  of  Judge  Samuel  Wilkeson  being  the  last 
one,  excepting  the  body  of  Dr.  Cyrenius  Chapin,  which 
was  buried  there  i)y  special  permit,  in  1838.  Dr.  Cha- 
pin's  grave  was  directly  beneath  the  ])resent  Church 
street  entrance  to  the  city  hall.  The  remains  of  those 
interred  in  the  old  village  ground  were  removed  to  an 
inclosed  plot  in  Forest  Lawn,  in  1850. 


lii'otlior, 
r  lift'  this 
lites.  and 
•arlit'i'liiV 
f  gliaatly 
Niagara. 
P812,    tl.e 
wlieii  aii- 
(•aj)tiire(l 
lostile  act 
two  lirit- 
the  guns 
y,  tlu-n  at 
tlie  Hrit- 
wa.s  com- 
offit-ei'  a 
tin*  sa<ra- 

o 

tlie  foasi- 
ili  vessels, 
,  brought 

itil  183G, 
•  the  last 
liii,  which 
Dr.  C'ha- 
;  Ciiurch 
of  those 
ed  to  an 


SKETC1IK8   OF    EARLY    HLKKALO, 


13 


David  Mather  was  a  settler  in  New  Amsterdam  in 
1806.  Then  the  handet  consisted  of  sixteen  houses, 
eight  of  which  were  on  Main  street,  three  on  Senecu, 
two  on  Pearl,  and  three  on  the  Terrace.  There  wt;re 
two  stores,  one  on  the  southeast  corner  of  Main  and 
Seneca  streets.  kei)t  by  Vincent  (irrant,  and  the  store 
(>f  Samuel  Pratt,  on  Crow  street  (Exchange),  which 
then  extended  only  from  Main  to  Washingion  street. 
In  a  wing  of  his  dwelling,  corner  of  Main  and  Crow 
streets,  Louis  Le  Couteulx  had  a  drug  st  )re,  the  Hrst 
in  Buffalo.  Where  now  is  the  Mansion  House,  John 
Crow  kept  a  tavern. 

The  first  lawyer  to  locate  in  New  Amsterdam  was 
Ebenezer  Walden,  in  1806.  And  in  1811  Mrs.  Wal- 
den  presided  at  the  first  {)iano  sounded  in  Buffalo. 

The  first  judge  for  Buffalo  was  Samuel  Tupper, 
appointed  in  1805  by  Gov.  George  Clinton.  Judge 
Tu])per  resided  on  the  southwest  corner  of  Main  and 
Tupper  streets.  His  dwelling  was  destroyed  in  the 
burning  of  the  villag;  in  1813.  After  the  war  he 
erected  a  larger  house  on  the  site,  where  it  remained 
until  removed  to  the  west  side  of  Main  street,  below 
Allen,  and  where  it  still  stands,  a  relii;  of  village  days. 

The  first  street  passenger  line  in  Buffah)  was  estab- 
lished by  Moses  Baker,  in  1825 — a  line  of  stages  to 
and  from  Black  Rock. 


iii?l! 


!.    I 


14 


MODKUN     ANTlgUlTIES. 


n 


CHAPTER    II. 


Thk  prt'C't'diiig-  cliajitcr  relates  to  the  coniing  of  the 
Hist  wliite  st'ttler  to  "Hutt'alo  Creek,"  and  the  estab- 
lisliiiieiit  of  the  tiadiug-post,  "Lake  Erie,"  and  of  the 
siibsecpient  village  of  "New  Amsterdam,"  and  of  events 
there  occurring  down  to  the  year  1807.  At  that,  period 
the  settlers  of  the  ))lace  persisted  in  calling  it  Buffalo, 
in  accord  with  the  official  name  of  its  ))ost-office  and 
the  customs  district.  But  not  until  1826  were  the 
DuU'h  ap])ellations  of  the  streets  officially  renounced 
and  the  jiresent  names  substituted. 

In  1808  an  act  of  the  legislature  made  Buffalo  the 
county  seat  of  Niagara  County,  the  Holland  Company 
donating  lots,  or  wliich  were  erected  a  court-house  and 
jail.  T\ui  court-house,  a  wooden  structure,  was  located 
on  the  present  line  of  Washington  street,  directly 
fronting  the  j)resent  Public  Library  building.  The 
jail  was  built  of  stone,  and  stood  where  now  is  the 
old  Darrow  block,  on  Washington  street,  opposite 
the  Mooney-Brisbane  building.  These  improvements 
added  prestige  to  the  town;  settlers  came,  and  its 
advance  was  rapid. 

The  first  court  of  record  was  held  in  1808,  at  Lan- 
don's  tavern,  Augustus  Porter,  Judge,  William  Stew- 


\$\ 


L  • 


iiig-  of  the 

tliL'  t'-stab- 

aiid  of  tlie 

1  of  events 

tliat  period 

it  Buffalo, 

office  and 

I   were   the 

renounced 

Buffalo  the 
I  Conij)any 
-house  and 
i^as  located 
t,  directly 
ing.  The 
low  is  the 
,  opposite 
rovenients 
i,  and  its 

i,  at  Lan- 
ani  Ste»y- 


SKETCHES    OK    EAKLY    HUFKAU). 


art.  District  Attorney,  Louis  LeCouteulx,  Clerk,  and 
Asa  Kansoni,  Sheriff.  Upon  this  court  were  four  at- 
tendant lawyers,  Kbene&er  Walden,  John  Hoot  and 
•lonas  Harrison,  of  Buft'ah),  and  Bates  Cook,  of  Lew- 
istoM.  The  records  of  the  court  went  the  way  of  all 
other  records  of  early  liuft'alo — uj)  in  smoke  in  the 
conflagration  of  1813,  hut  in  some  nianner  it  has  been 
preserved  to  history  that  at  this  session  four  men  were 
indicted  and  tried  for  stealing  a  (!ow  I 

The  first  brick  buihling  erected  in  the  town  of  Buf- 
falo was  by  William  Hodge,  Sen.,  in  1806,  on  the 
lot  now  1358  Main  street.  The  bricks  for  the  build- 
ing were  manufactured  by  Mr.  Hodge  on  the  lot  now 
occupied  by  the  Jiapst  building,  corner  of  Main  street 
and  Glenwood  avenue.  The  second  brick  structure 
in  the  town  was  erected  on  the  lot  now  the  north- 
east corner  of  Exchange  and  Washington  streets, 
in  1810,  by  Benjamin  Caryl,  Juba  Storrs  and  Samuel 
Fi-att,  Jr. 

The  flrst  newspaper  for  Buffalo  was  the  Gazette, 
published  by  Smith  H.  and  Hezekiah  Salisbury,  in 
1811.  Copies  of  this  publication  are  preserved  in  the 
Buf'alo  Library. 

The  first  brewer  known  to  Buffalo  was  Joseph 
Webb.  In  1811  he  atlvertised  his  brewery  in  the  col- 
umns of  the  Gazette. 

In  1811  the  first  church  organization  in  Buffalo 
was  formed — "The  First  Congregational  and  Presby- 


i§ 


if .  ■ . 

ii  ■■'■-'- 


'!  I. 


16 


MODKKN     ANTIQUITIKS. 


I  , 


ii 


j:i 


1,1 


terian    Church" — numbering    twenty -nine    niemberH. 
as  follows: 


•Ittuu's  H.  Hyde, 
HumIih  Ilyilc, 
Sinniu'l  AtkiiiM, 
Aniiu  Atkins, 
John  J.  Sccley, 
Elizabeth  Seeley, 
Stephen  Franklin, 
Sarah  Franklin, 
Amioh  C'allender, 
hehet'ca  Calleuder, 
Nathaniel  Sill, 
Keziah  Sill, 
Comfort  Landon, 
Esther  Pratt, 
Sarah  Hoisington. 


Jahe/.  (ioodell, 
Nani'v  Hull, 
Uuth  Foster, 
Keziah  ("otton, 
Nancy  Mather, 
Keziah  Holt, 
Sally  Haddock, 
S<))>hia  Bull, 
Henry  VVoodworth, 
Sophia  (Hllett, 
Betsy  Atkins, 
Mary  Holbrook, 
Louis  C^irtisH, 
Naney  Harvey, 


For  about  four  years  the  society  retained  its  original 
title,  when  it  was  changed  to  "The  First  Presbyterian 
Church  Society,"  a  name  still  retained.  The  vicissi- 
tudes of  war  interrupted  their  meetings  for  fully  three 
years.  The  Rev.  Thaddeus  Osgood  was  their  first 
pastor.  In  May,  181G,  in  a  buihling  on  the  northeast 
corner  of  Main  and  Huron  streets,  erected  for  a  car- 
penter shop,  the  Hev.  Miles  P.  Sqiiier  was  installed 
pastor.  Their  old  church,  which  gave  place  to  the  Erie 
County  Bank  bi'iUling,  was  erected  in  1827.  Its  foun- 
dation stones  were  dug  when  constructing  the  canal  at 
Porter  avenue. 

The  fi'"st  butcher  to  open  a  meat  market  in  Buffalo 
was  Gilman   Folsom,  in  1808.     His  location  was  on 


SKETCHES   OP    EARLY    BUFFALO. 


17 


^    iiienilterH, 

lell, 
I. 

'T, 

ton, 

her, 

It, 

ock, 

1. 

xlwortli. 

ett, 

18, 

'ook, 

•fV, 

ts  original 
esbyteriaii 
he  vieissi- 
fiilly  three 
their   first 
northeast 
for  a  car- 
installed 
:i  the  Erie 
Its  foun- 
!  canal  at 

n  Buffalo 
1  was  on 


the  lot  since  occupied  for  a  like  purpose  for  half  a 
century  by  Arnold  Weppner,  on  Main  street,  below 
Chippewa.  Folsom's  slaughter-house  was  in  the  rear, 
ou  Pearl  street. 

In  1811  a  war-cloud  darkened  the  land.  To  frontier 
communities  remote  from  the  centers  of  population  it 
was  of  much  concern.  When  war  came  it  brought 
appalling  disaster  to  the  village  o?  Buffalo,  its  inhabi- 
tants  being  compelled  to  flee  from  the  flames  of  their 
burning  homes  in  mid-winter  to  seek  shelter  in  adja- 
cent settlements.  Their  village,  with  the  exception  of 
three  buildings,  was  burned  to  ashes. 

Recently  was  published  in  a  local  newspaper  a  con- 
servative account  of  the  burning  and  of  the  events 
leatUng  thereto,  which  is  new  reading.  The  article  is 
hereto  apyended : 

The  story  of  the  burning  of  Buffalo  eighty-three  years  ago 
has  been  told  many  times,  but  almost  always  from  the  point  of 
view  of  the  dwellers  in  the  two  villages  where  the  city  now 
stands.  The  men  of  Buffalo  and  Black  Rook  we  -  defending 
their  own  firesides,  and  Buffalonians  are  apt  to  think  of  them 
and  their  families  as  the  only  sufferers.  It  will  be  interesting 
to  re>ad  the  story  as  seen  by  those  who  rallied  from  the  sur- 
rounding country  to  aid  in  defense  of  Buffalo  when  its  destruc- 
tion was  threatened. 

When  General  Wilkinson  retired  in  1813  to  lower  Lake  On- 
tario, he  left  the  force  on  the  Niagara  in  command  of  General 
McClure,  who  made  his  headtjuarlers  on  the  Canadian  side,  at 
Fort  George,  where  the  doughty  General  issued  flaming  procla- 
mations, and  when  abandoning  that  position  committed  the  need- 
less cruelty  of  burning  the  adjacent  village,  and  turning  helpless 
families  out   into  winter's  cold  and  snow.     The  inhuman  act 


-.\-5src--; 


MI-"-^— '■ 


f 


flii 


18 


MODERN     ANTIQUITIES. 


u\ 


V :  I 


Its' 

•'if!' 


I 


brought  condijfn  imiiiMlmient  on  the  American  frontier.  Then 
McClure  moved  his  hca(li|uarlers  to  UufTah).  The  British,  fired 
with  tlie  spirit  of  revenge,  at  once  undert<M)k  rejjrisals.  The 
whole  country-side,  up  to  Tonawanda  ("reek,  was  swept  by  red- 
coats and  their  savages.  During  the  three  weeks  following  the 
burning  of  Newark,  six  American  villages  were  burned,  with  all 
the  scattered  homes  the  avengers  could  find.  The  whole  pour  '  y- 
side  was  a  waste.  General  McClure  called  uimn  the  men  of 
Genesee,  Niagara  and  Chautauqua  counties  to  come  to  the  defense 
of  Buffalo,  and  then  went  to  Bi>.tavia,  where  he  arrived  on  De- 
cenilwr  23(1,  and  there  he  gave  uj)  the  command  to  General  Hall, 
who  hurried  on  all  the  troops  he  could  to  Buffalo,  which  he 
reached  December  25th,  and  did  the  bent  he  could  to  repel  the 
invaders. 

The  tale  has  often  l)een  told  how  small  detachments  of  Amer- 
ican raw  militia  were  one  after  another  thrown  against  the  enemy 
in  the  darkness  at  Conjockety  Creek,  and  were  in  turn  demoral- 
ized, many  scattering  through  the  wood  in  flight ;  how  the  Brit- 
ish "ucceeded  in  landing  at  Black  Rock  ;  how  the  enemy  marched 
up  from  the  Conjockety,  dispersing  such  resistance  as  they  met. 
General  Hall  sounded  a  retreat,  hoping  to  make  a  stand  at  Buf- 
falo, but  this  was  impossible.  Only  a  few  soldiers  rallied  for  a 
future  defense.  Then  followed  a  scene  which  passes  description. 
The  few  roads  were  thronged  with  a  motley  crowd  of  soldiers 
and  citizens  and  Seneca  Indians,  all  hurrying  as  fast  as  possible 
from  the  British  and  their  savage  allies.  For  a  day  or  two  the 
country  roads  resembled  a  general  May-day  moving,  but  with 
terror  blanching  every  face. 

Such  was  the  effect  of  the  needless  destruction  of 
the  Canadian  village  by  General  McClure  on  his  evac- 
uation of  Fort  George,  and  who  then  and  there  dis- 
graced the  uniform  of  an  American  soldier  by  so 
doing.  What  if  the  villagers  were  insulting  to  their 
invaders  ?    They  were  belligerents  in  time  of  war,  and 


SKETCHES  OF  EARLY  BUFFALO. 


19 


itier.  Then 
Sritisb,  fired 
risals.  The 
yept  by  red- 
illowing  the 
led,  with  all 
lolt-  pour  ■  y- 
the  men  uf 
» the  defense 
ived  (in  De- 
eneral  Hall, 
),  which  he 
to  repel  tlie 

its  of  Amer- 
it  the  enemy 
irn  demoral- 
(iw  the  Brit- 
my  marched 
as  they  met. 
and  at  Biif- 
rallied  for  a 
description. 
,  of  soldiers 
I  as  possible 
.'  or  two  the 
g,  but  with 


ruction  of 
1  his  evac- 
there  cUs- 
ier  by  so 
g  to  their 
i  war,  and 


their  indignities  should  have  been  overlooked,  and  in- 
nocent women  and  children  not  subjected  to  iniuunan 
treatment  in  onler  to  api)ease  the  wrath  of  an  officer 
in  CO!  and.  A  true  soldier  would  have  shrunk  from 
such  action. 

Until  the  spring  of  1814,  but  few  of  the  fugitive 
villagers  returned  to  re-establish  their  honies,  and  most 
of  these  with  pluck  only  as  a  resource.  The  Gazette  of 
May  14  announced  that  activity  prevailed  in  rebuild- 
ing, and  that  the  county  clerk's  office  couhl  be  found 
at  the  house  of  Major  Miller,  at  Cold  Spring,  that  the 
post-office  was  at  the  house  of  Judge  Granger,  and  that 
the  collector's  office  had  returned  from  Batavia. 

Samuel  Wilkeson  had  returned  from  the  army,  and 
on  Niagara,  near  Main  street,  he  erected  a  house,  and 
still  another  on  Main,  near  Genesee  street.  The  latter 
was  his  family  residence  until  the  completion  of  his 
mansion  on  Niagara  Square,  in  1825. 

This  house,  since  construction,  has  been  occupied 
continuously  by  the  Wilkeson  family.  Miss  Louise 
Wilkeson,  a  granddaughter  of  Judge  Samuel  Wil- 
keson, its  present  occupant,  has  there  resided  from 
her  birth.  The  house  is  of  much  historic  interest. 
Therein  important  meetings  were  held  by  prominent, 
influential  citizens,  when  ways  were  discussed  and 
means  were  provided  to  advance  the  interests  of  Buf- 
falo. There  Gov.  Dewitt  Clinton  and  Canal  Commis- 
sioner Myron  Holly  met  in  consultation  with  citizens 
of  Buffalo  on  matters  important,  and  which,  promoted 


''i>¥1 


■  ;p 


n 


Hi 


li'i 


Vi 


11  k 


20  MODKKN     ANTiglTITIK8. 

by  the  inaHter  iniiid  of  .liulgu  Wilkesoii,  were  (H)iiHuin- 
niate<l  to  the  advaiitajre  and  gh>ry  of  Hiiffah).  On  the 
o|>ening  of  t]ie  Krie  (Janal,  Judge  WilkeHon  waH  chair- 
man of  the  eehtbration  conunittee,  r.nd  on  their  return 
fronj  their  c-astern  trip  a  grand  rfception  was  held  at 
the  WilkeHon  houHe,  where  the  leturned  conunittee  was 
greeted  and  (congratulated  by  tiit  leading  residents  of 
Buffalo,  and  of  the  country  surrounding. 

Robert  Cameron  Rogers,  in  his  story,  "Johnny 
Wedderbnrn,"  hMcates  a  scene  i\t  the  Wilkeson  man- 
sion, he  naming  it  "Wedderbnrn  House."  The  story 
is  not  drawn  from  family  history,  but  his  description 
of  the  house  and  grounds  is  |)erfect : 

But  the  uproar  never  aeeiits  to  break  in  upon  or  dispel  the  air 
of  complete  ropoHO  which  surround  the  old  manuion.  The  very 
dust  a])peara  to  nettle  with  a  certain  deference  over  the  garden 
and  through  the  branchen  of  the  elm  trees,  which  stand  lilte 
drowsy  sentinels  just  within  the  yard.  The  Wedderburn  House 
is  like  a  half-hour  stolen  for  meditation  out  of  a  busy  day.  It 
is  a  little  Mecca  in  the  midst  of  the  work-a-day  world,  into  which 
you  may  turn  to  meditate  awhile  on  remote  and  (juiot  themes, 
and  even,  as  the  moslem  leaves  his  shoes  without  the  mosque, 
bid  the  ijuestions  and  anxieties  of  life  await  you  at  the  gate. 
Within  the  house  is  the  same  atmosphere  of  rest,  tinged,  you 
might  say,  with  sadness.  The  shadow  of  some  lingering  sad- 
ness, softened  and  mellowed  by  time,  seems  mingled  with  the 
({uiet  of  the  dusky  rooms.  As  you  tread  through  the  long  hall, 
the  soft,  odd-patterned  rugs  hush  the  f(K>tfall  into  silence.  The 
old-fashioned  furniture  meets  your  gaze,  seeming  to  say  softly, 
"  We  have  been  lc:;g  in  the  family,  and  have  memories." 

Together  with  its  central  location,  and  the  historic 
interest  connected  with  the  house  and  grounds,  their 


>e  coiiHuiii- 
.  On  the 
was  chiiir- 
leir  ivturii 
as  hel<,l  at 
nittee  was 
midents  of 

".lohuiiy 
liHon  uian- 
The  story 
ieseription 

apul  thn  air 
.  The  very 
'  the  garden 
1  Htand  like 
•burn  House 
isy  day.  It 
I,  into  which 
lict  themes, 
,he  mosque, 
It  the  gate, 
tinged,  you 
igering  sad- 
ud  with  the 
e  long  hall, 
lence.  The 
)  say  softly, 
les." 

le  historic 
inds,  their 


gl»U,'fc, 


i! 


f;! 


I 


! 


22 


MODKKN     ANTlgl'ITIKM. 


piirt'hiiHu  and  pivHervfttion  by  tli«  city  ih  ii  Hiihjt'ct 
worthy  of  (uinaitlBration.  Tli«  roHiilt  wouhl  h«  a  joy 
to  futur«  ^pnoratioiiH,  aiitl  a  (l«l)t  of  honor  cancoU'd 
which  Itiitfah^  owen  to  the  nutniory  of  Samuel  Wilkc 
Bon,  the  father  of  the  (iity — the  founder  of  itH  eoni- 
niereial  greatneHH. 

In  the  Hpring  of  1813  the  first  execution  in  Buft'ah) 
took  place.  Two  Hohiierx  were  Hliot  for  desertion,  at 
the  camp  on  Flint  Hill.  A  like  tragedy  occurred  the 
following  year,  when  Ave  HohlierH  were  placed  in  kneel- 
ing poHture  to  Ue  shot  for  denertion,  one  of  whom  was 
a  young  man  under  twenty  years  of  age.  The  mus- 
kets handed  to  the  men  ordered  to  tire  at  him  were 
charged  with  blank  cartridge,  and  his  life  was  his  own. 
This  tragedy,  overlooked  by  (ienenih  Brown,  Scott 
and  Ripley,  took  ))lace  where  is  now  tho  junction  of 
Seventh  and  Carolina  streets. 

The  first  execution  by  civil  authority  in  Buffalo  was 
in  1815,  when  James  Peters  and  Charles  Thompson 
were  hanged  for  the  nmrder  of  James  Burba.  The 
victim  lived  on  the  river-side,  below  Black  Kock,  and 
because  he  objected  to  the  trespass  upon  his  premises 
by  Thompson  and  Peters,  they  shot  him.  On  this 
occasion  the  gallows  was  erected  on  the  Terrace  near 
Swan  street. 

In  December,  1819,  for  the  second  time  a  gallows 
was  erected  in  Buffalo.  John  Godfrey  was  hanged  for 
killing  a  soldier  in  the  garrison  at  Fort  Niagara.  The 
recruit  was  dilatory  in  obeying  an  order  of  Corporal 


SKETCMIW   or    BARI.Y    BUrVALO. 


28 


a  Hiil)j»vt 
he  a  joy 

caiu't'led 
el  Wilk... 

itH  eoin- 

n  Buffalo 
ertioi),  at 
urrt'il  the 
in  kiieel- 
vlioin  wan 
riie  niiiH- 
him  were 
I  luH  own. 
vn,  Scott 
motion  of 

iffalo  was 
['honipHon 
ba.  The 
iock,  and 
premises 
On  this 
raee  near 

I  gallows 
Einged  for 
ra.  The 
Corporal 


(iotUrey,  and  thereniMHi  he  was  pr«>niptly  shot,  and  for 
which  the  <  ..riMiral  was  j)roniptly  hanged,  and  then  the 
waleh  of  .Justice  l»alaiu'ed  even. 

The  first  three  years  of  the  ret-onstructlon  )f  the  vil- 
lage  were  uneventful,  when  iniiM)rtant  events  stiniidatcd 
the  vilLigers  to  greater  activity.  The  c(  nstructiou  «.f 
the  Krie  Canal,  then  in  progress,  and  the  mlvent  and 
success  of  a  steaniboat  on  Lake  Krie,  were  incentive  * 
to  emigration,  and  the  ensuing  dccadt*  was  largely 
eventful  to  Buffalo. 

In  1813  an  act  incoriM)rating  the  village  was  passed 
by  the  legislature,  but  the  exigencies  of  war  prevented 
(•rganization.  Another  act  oi  incoriM)ration  was  passetl 
in  181G,  when  an  organization  was  effet^ted,  with  Oliver 
Forward,  Samuel  Wilkescm,  Charles  Townsend,  Eben- 
ezer  Walden,  Heman  B.  Potter  and  Jonas  Harrison 
as  trustees, 

A  paper  written  in  1847,  by  the  late  Judge  George 
W.  Clinton,  is  an  interesting  chapter  of  village  history, 
from  which  the  following  is  extracted : 

On  the  6tb  day  of  May,  1816.  the  freeholders  and  inhabitants 
met  St  the  house  of  Ciaius  Kibhe.  Innkeeper.  Of  the  trustees. 
Samuel  Wilkeson,  Oliver  Forward,  Charles  Townsend  and  Jonas 
Harrison  were  present.  The  uieeting  chose  J.  E.  Chaplin. 
Clerk,  Josiah  Trowbridge,  Treasurer,  Moses  Baker.  Collector, 
and  Reuben  B.  Hoacock,  John  Hadd<.ck  and  Caleb  Kussell,  Fire 
Wardens.  At  a  subsequent  meeting,  on  the  11th  of  November, 
1816  they  voted  the  first  tax  ever  imposed  in  Buffalo  village-a 
tax  of  11.400,  to  be  apportioned  according  to  the  assessment  roll 
of  the  town  of  Buffalo  for  that  year. 


tfl-^ 


24 


MODEPN     ANTIQUITIES. 


:'l- 


On  the  7th  of  March,  1817,  the  trustees  organized 
a  fire  company,  and  appointed  the  following  named 
to  constitute  it : 


Sylvanus  Marvin, 
Stephen  K.  Orosvenor, 
William  Murray, 
Jonathan  E.  Chaplin, 
Dan  Bristol, 
Gorham  Chapin, 
John  Fobes, 
John  B.  Hicks, 


Horatio  L.  Fobes, 
Joseph  Lawton, 
Jonathan  K.  Brown, 
A::ariah  Fuller,  Jr., 
William  B.  Goodrich, 
Nathaniel  Goodrich, 
William  Dorrington, 
Welcome  Wood. 


At  this  meeting  the  trustees  passed  a  resolution, 
rather  arbitrarily,  "that  it  be  the  duty  of  Vincent 
Grant,  Gilman  Folsom  and  Amos  Callender  to  protect 
property  from  plunder  whenever  a  fire  takes  place  in 
this  village." 

In  May,  1823,  was  passed  the  first  ordinance  forbid- 
ing  domestic  animals  the  freedom  of  the  town,  but  the 
cows  and  pigs  refused  to  observe  the  law  for  many 
years  thereafter  by  roaming  at  will. 

On  the  6th  of  August,  1825,  Lorin  Pierce  was  ap- 
pointed village  sexton,  an  office  he  held  persistently 
for  fifty  years  thereafter. 

On  December  16,  1824,  the  second  fire  company 

was  organized.     Among  the  members  were : 

Abner  Brj-ant, 
Martin  Daley, 


Guy  H.  Goodrich, 
Thaddeus  Weed, 
Ebenezer  Johnson, 
George  Coit, 
John  Scott, 
William  HoUistcr, 
Nathaniel  Wilg"s, 
Theodore  Coburn, 
Hirara  Johnson. 


John  A.  Lnzelle, 
George  B.  Gleason, 
George  B.  Webster, 
Robert  Bush, 
Joseph  Dart, 
E.  D.  Efner, 


organized 
ing  named 

s> 

iwn, 

Jr., 

drich, 

■ich, 

fton, 

resolution, 

f   Vincent 

to  protect 

8  place  in 

lice  forbid- 

m,  but  the 

for  many 

ce  was  ap- 
ersistently 

I  company 


le, 

lasou, 

ibster, 


SKETCHES    OF    EARLY    BUFFALO. 

In  August,  1831,  a  tax  of  #3,000  was  imiwsed  for 
the  purpose  of  constructing  reservoirs  and  the  pur- 
chase of  lire  engines.  Two  thousand  dollars  was  paid 
for  a  fire  engine  and  200  feet  of  hose.  Then  a  third 
fire  company  was  organized.  Two  engine  houses  were 
built  and  a  third  one  ordered,  and  another  fire  engine 
contracted  for.  Such  were  the  youthful  days  of 
Buffalo's  now  unsurpassed  fire  department. 

The  police  department  was  organized  by  a  provis- 
ion of  the  city  charter ;  the  village  trustees  neglecting 
such  precaution  further  than  to  appoint  a  "watch,"  at 
the  request  of  the  residents  of  the  "Triangle,"  sit- 
uated  between  Main  and  Canal  streets  and  the  canal. 
John  Benson,  Michael  Benson  and  William  Cornwall 
were  appointed  to  guard  that  locality— Buffalo's  first 
police  authorized  by  the  corporation. 

Not  until  near  the  close  of  the  village  era  was  Buf- 
falo furnished  with  a  sidewalk  other  than  what  Mother 
Earth  provided.  An  order  to  construct  sidewalks  on 
Main  street,  from  Crow  to  Swan  street,  was  ordered  in 
1829,  "  with  brick  or  smooth  flagging,"  at  the  expense 
of  the  owners  of  fronting  property— the  west  side  to 
be  sixteen  feet  in  width,  and  but  fourteen  feet  on 
the  east  side,  and  both  sides  provided  with  a  rail  on 
the  outer  edge. 

Prior  to  1845,  the  east  side  of  Main  street  be- 
low Seneca  was  of  but  little  account.  The  east  side, 
called  "Cheapside,"  was  "in  the  swim."  As  late  as 
1846  the  corner  of  Exchange  and  Main  streets  was 


L* 


^^ 


■MUW  iiH.  tl*>'l  B,3*^  ■ 


:«i)if 


26 


MODERN     ANTIQUITIES. 


f    11- 


occupietl  by  the  residence  of  Louis  Le  Couteulx,  upou 
a  hill  ten  feet  above  the  present  grade.  The  lot  was 
inclosed  by  a  stone  wall,  eight  feet  high  above  the  sivie- 
walk.  On  the  Main  and  Exchange  street  fronts  there 
were  openings  in  the  wall,  where  steps  led  up  to  a  gate 
at  the  top  of  the  ground  entrance  to  the  house.  From 
the  corner  of  Exchange  street  half-way  to  Seneca  street 
was  vacant  property.  In  1843  William  Garland  came 
from  Boston.  Adjoining  the  Le  Couteulx  lot  on  the 
north  he  erected  Gothic  Hall,  the  building  now  occupied 
by  that  combustible  merchant,  Salem  Le  Valley.  Mr. 
Garland's  enterprise  was  scoffed  at  by  the  merchants 
of  "Gheapside" — that  Iiia  building  would  he  out  of 
the  line  of  business  and  travel.  However,  his  fine 
structure  was  the  incentive  to  the  immediate  improve- 
ment of  that  side  of  the  street,  above  and  below,  when 
at  once  it  became  what  it  has  ever  since  remained — the 
bustling  side. 

During  the  Presidential  campaign  of  1844  the  Whigs, 
in  honor  of  their  candidate,  Henry  Glay,  erected  on 
the  upper  corner  of  Main  and  Exchange  streets  a  mas- 
sive ashen  column,  twenty  feet  high,  surmounted  by 
a  golden  l>all,  in  circumference  equal  to  a  flour  barrel. 

The  first  settlement  of  Buffalo  was  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  Terrace  Liberty  Pole.  The  double  log-house 
of  Middaugh  and  Lane,  sold  to  Judge  Barker  in  1808, 
was  the  first  exclusive  dwelling  erected.  No  contracts 
for  the  sale  of  lands  in  New  Amsterdam  were  entered 
into  by  the  PloUand  Gompany  until  November,  1804, 


teulx,  upon 
The  lot  was 
>ve  the  sivle- 
fronts  there 
lip  to  a  gate 
lu^e.    From 
eneca  street 
irlaiid  came 
lot  on  the 
ow  occupied 
'^alley.    Mr. 
!  merchant<i 
l)e  out  of 
er,  his  fine 
ite  improve- 
below,  when 
nained — the 

I  the  Whigs, 
,  erected  on 
reets  a  mas- 
nounted  by 
flour  barrel, 
bhe  vicinity 
e  log-house 
cer  in  1808, 
fo  contracts 
'ere  entered 
nber,  1804, 


SKETCHES   OF    EARLY    BUFFALO. 


27 


when  six  were  made  on  the  first  day.  One  of  these 
was  inner  lot  No.  1,  to  John  Crow,  who  erected  and 
kept  a  tavern  upon  it,  and  a  public  house  has  been 
maintained  thereon  continuously  since,  known  as  the 
Mansion  House.  In  1810,  this  lot,  with  its  improve- 
ments, was  sold  to  Joseph  Landon  for  il40.  The 
census  of  1810  gave  the  village  a  population  of  355 
whito  inhabitants. 

The  year  1816  gave  to  Buffalo  four  brick  build- 
ings, two  of  which  became  famous — the  court-house 
for  its  noted  lawyers,  and  for  its  many  noted  criminal 
trials,  among  which  were  the  convic^'ed  murderers, 
John  Godfrey,  the  three  Thayers,  Dibdell  Holt,  John 
Davis,  John  Johnson,  McElroy,  Shorter,  Knicker- 
bocker, and  the  acute  Gaffney — all  hanged,  from  Davis 
down,  in  the  old  jail  yard.  Holt  was  the  victim  of  the 
last  public  execution  in  Buffalo.  A  noted  trial  in 
the  old  court-house  was  that  of  the  illustrious  forger, 
Benjamin  Kathbun,  in  1838. 

Once  upon  a  time,  Millard  Fillmore,  a  respected 
Buffalo  lawyer,  who,  with  the  rest  of  mankind,  did  not 
then  suspect  that  he  was  destined  to  be  President  of 
the  United  States,  addressed  the  jury  in  an  important 
land  case,  tried  before  Judge  MuUett  in  the  old  court- 
house. The  close  of  Mr.  Fillmore's  atldress  was  an 
appeal  to  the  jury,  when  he  stated  that  "they  all  knew 
him,  and  therefore  were  aware  that  statements  he  had 
made  to  them  were  the  facts  of  the  case,  else  he  would 
not  have  made  them."     Then  Mr.  Fillmore  took  a  seat 


iJt 


28 


MODERN     ANTIQUITIES. 


next  to  the  late  Judge  Talcott,  then  a  lawyer  at  the 
bar.  The  opposiiig  counsel,  Gen.  George  P.  Barker, 
then  arose  to  make  his  address.  General  Barker 
opened  his  argument  by  protesting  aguinst  the  emi- 
nent counsel  for  the  plaintiffs  making  his  personal 
character  "the  right  bower  of  his  argimient."  Mr. 
Fillmore  was  curious :  "  Right  bower — right  bower — 
what's  that  ?  "  whispered  the  future  President.  "  Big- 
gest knave  in  the  pack,"  said  Talcott,  and  without  a 
change  of  countenance. 

The  Eagle  Tavern  acquired  fame  for  good  cheer, 
superior  viands  and  entertainment.  Among  its  guests, 
from  time  to  time,  have  been  Presidents  of  the  nation, 
Governc  .•»;  statesmen,  and  foreign  potentates  when 
making  pilgrimages  to  the  Falls.  When  the  Ameri- 
can Hotel  burned  in  1865,  the  remaining  portion  of 
the  old  Eagle  Tavern  was  destroyed,  and  on  its  site 
was  erected  the  stores,  416  and  418  Main  street. 

The  first  landlord  of  the  Eagle  Tavern  was  its  con- 
structor. Gains  Kibbe.  In  the  early  twenties  Kibbe 
was  succeeded  by  Benjamin  Hathbun,  who  there  flour- 
ished until  the  fall  of  1836.  Rathbun  was  succeeded 
by  E.  A.  Huntley,  and  he  for  a  time  by  I.  R.  Harring- 
ton, but  its  prestige  had  departed,  overshadowed  by 
the  adjoining  American  Hotel. 

A  third  structure  was  the  residence  of  Judge 
Walden,  located  on  Main  street,  where  now  stands 
the  south  end  of  J.  N.  Adam's  line  of  stores,  between 
Eagle  and  Clinton  streets.     Mr.  Walden  disposed  of 


-.OjltllJUllJBJtllJIiliPlill  .1 1  111 


tmeu 


SKETCHES   OF    EARLY    BUFFALO. 


29 


yer  at  the 
P.  Barker, 
ral  Barker 
st  the  eiiii- 
18  })er8onal 
ent."  Mr. 
^ht  bower — 
ent.  "  Big- 
1  without  a 

[ood   cheer, 
g  its  guests, 

the  nation, 
itates   when 

the  Ameri- 
;  portion  of 

on  its  site 
street. 

was  its  cou- 
nties Kibbe 

there  flour- 
s  succeeded 
R.  Harring- 
ladoweil  by 

of  Judge 
now  stands 
es,  between 
disposed  of 


the  property  in  1823  to  Bela  D.  Coe,  the  resident  pro- 
})rietor  of  the  Albany  and  Buffalo  line  of  stages,  who 
occupied  the  residence  until  about  1839,  when  W.  A. 
Moseley  took  possession,  until  sold  to  the  McArthurs, 
(luring  the  forties.  The  McArthurs  added  to  the 
premises  by  inclosing  the  then  vacant  space  to  FJagle 
street.  For  many  years  thereafter  it  was  "  McAr- 
thurs' Garden,"  having  a  building  within  the  inclosure 
for  exhibitions,  with  stage  and  audience  room.  Here 
Gen.  Tom  Thumb  was  first  exhibited  in  Buffalo  by 
P.  T.  Barnum.  Subsequently,  in  1851,  a  panorama 
presented  scenes  on  the  Sacramento  River  where  gold 
was  being  panne<l  out ;  the  exhibitor  spread  the  Cali- 
fornia fever  when  pointing  to  a  locality  on  the  canvas, 
and  saying :  "  On  that  bar  I  worketl  six  weeks,  aver- 
aging a  little  over  two  hundred  dollars  a  day."  The 
corne;-  below,  where  stands  the  Hotel  Iroquois,  was 
then  vacant.  Usually,  in  summer,  a  circus  tent  was 
pitched  in  this  lot.  It  was  here  that  Dan  Rice,  in 
1858,  exhibited  his  educated  mules  for  the  first  time 
in  Buffalo.  Then  upon  the  corner  was  erected  the 
St.  James  Hotel,  opened  by  E,  L.  Hodges,  and  then 
the  Young  Men's  Association  purchased  and  occupied 
the  property  about  1865,  and  then  the  fated  Richmond 
Hotel,  and  then — the  big  wigwam,  the  Iroquois. 


m 


■i  I'i 


30 


MODERN     ANTIQUITIES. 


CHAPTER  III. 


At  this  periixl,  1820,  no  water  craft  larger  than  a 
bateau  cotild  enter  Buffalo  Creek  from  the  lake,  and 
the  construction  of  a  harbor  was  the  leadin^^  question 
considered  by  the  villagers.  For  the  extension  of  the 
Erie  Canal  to  Buffalo  a  harbor  was  indispensable,  and 
a  harbor  its  people  were  determined  to  have. 

Application  for  a  survey  of  the  creek  was  made, 
and  an  act  passed  authorizing  such  a  survey.  A  sur- 
vey was  made,  and  then  a  public  meeting  appointed 
Charles  Townsend  a  delegate  to  Albany  to  obtain 
legislative  aid.  The  state  would  loan  a  sum  of  money 
to  l)e  applied  to  building  a  harbor  at  Buffalo  provided 
security  was  furnished.  Oliver  Forward,  Charles 
Townsend,  A.  H.  Tracy,  H.  B.  Potter,  E.  F.  Norton, 
Ebenezer  Johnson,  Ebenezer  Walden,  Jonas  Harrison 
and  John  G.  Camp  associated  and  applied  for  a  loan. 
An  act  was  passed  authorizing  a  loan  to  above-named 
citizens  of  Buffalo  to  the  amount  of  112,000,  to  be 
secured  by  bond  and  mortgage  in  double  the  amount. 
But  the  outcome  was  that  all  but  Charles  Townsend 
and  Oliver  Forward  declined  to  bond  themselves. 
Then  the  prospect  of  Bulialo  village  becoming  a  com- 
mercial city  was  cast  in  gloom.  The  termination  of 
the  canal  at  Black  Rock  was  influentially  advocated, 


-mrtwtnrwimsfm 


:-L 


EAKLY    NAVIGATION. 


81 


Tger  than  a 
he  lake,  and 
m^,  question 
tnsion  of  the 
lensable,  and 
'e. 

:  was  made, 
vey.  A  sur- 
g  appointed 
ly  to  obtain 
im  of  money 
'alo  provided 
ird,  Charles 
1.  F.  Norton, 
nas  Harrison 
A  for  a  loan, 
above-named 
2,000,  to  be 
the  amount. 
(8  Townsend 
themselves, 
ming  a  com- 
rmination  of 
f  advocated, 


and  the  practicability,  even  the  possibility,  of  con- 
structing a  permanent  structure  at  the  mouth  of 
Buffalo  Creek  was  seriously  questioned.  At  this  junc- 
ture came  forth  a  Moses,  who  opened  the  way  through 
the  wilderness.  The  benefactor  was  Judge  S^imuel 
Wilkeson,  who,  in  connection  with  Judge  Charles 
Townsend,  Judge  Oliver  Forward  and  George  Coit, 
gave  the  required  security,  each  executing  their  indi- 
vidual bond  and  mortgage  in  the  sum  of  |i6,000.  They 
obtained  #12,000  from  the  state  to  be  expended  in 
making  a  harbor  at  Buffalo,  the  state  reserving  the 
right  to  take  the  work  when  completed  and  cancel  the 
bonds,  all  dependent  upon  its  stability.  The  building 
of  a  pier  into  the  open  lake  was  an  experiment, — no 
such  work  hatl  been  attempted.  An  engineer  for 
superintendent  was  imported  from  the  sea-board,  and 
the  work  commenced  during  the  summer  of  1821. 
Judge  Wilkeson  was  prosecuting  his  private  business, 
Judge  Forward  was  a  senator  at  Albany,  while  Judge 
Townsend,  not  in  robust  health,  watched  the  action  of 
the  superintendent,  making  himself  acquainted  with 
his  plans  and  management.  After  a  time  it  became 
manifest  that  the  imported  expert  was  improvident,  if 
not  incompetent,  that  he  was  not  an  economist  suf- 
ficient to  complete  the  work  with  the  money  available. 
A  consultation  resulted  in  tiic  discharge  of  the  superin- 
tendent, and  obtaining  the  consent  of  Judge  Wilkeson 
to  neglect  his  private  affairs  and  assume  the  manage- 
ment of  the  work. 


t^^^ 


■■vi 


ly 


j;   H 


32 


MODKRN     ANTIQLITIEH. 


The  great  energy  of  Judge  Wilkeson  was  evinced 
in  the  at'eonjpliHhnient  of  the  first  day  of  his  manage- 
ment, three  cribs  being  constructed,  placed  and  par- 
tially filled  with  stone.  For  the  want  ot  adequate 
means  of  excavation  and  other  appliances  the  work 
was  prosecuted  under  many  difticulties ;  incessant  rain 
and  rough  water  was  a  hindrance  that  could  not  be 
obviated,  and  during  the  month  of  Septemljer,  when 
the  cribs  placed  were  filled  with  stone,  the  work  was 
suspended  for  the  season. 

In  his  writings  Judge  Wilkeson  was  generous  with 
praises  of  his  faithful  assistants  in  habor  work.  Of 
Sloan  and  Olmstead,  the  stone  boatmen,  he  writes 
interestingly : 

Those  only  who  have  experienced  the  (Ufflcultit's  in  making 
iinpr  )veu  jnts  in  a  new  country  with  inadequate  facilities,  can 
appreciate  the  worth  of  such  men.  James  Sloan  was  a  salt  boat- 
man on  the  Niagara  river  in  1807.  During  the  war  he  was  a  lake 
sailor,  was  of  the  i)arty  who  cut  out  the  brig  Adams  from  under 
the  guns  of  Fort  Erie,  and  was  commander  of  the  ammunition  Iwal 
at  the  siege  of  that  fort.     He  was  industrious,  faithful  and  honest. 

In  after  life  Capt.  James  Sloan  resided  at  Black 
Kock,  engaged  in  boating  on  the  Niagara,  an  honored 
citizen,  until  his  death,  about  1867.  Most  old  citizens 
will  recall  his  sturdy  character  and  quiet  demeanor. 

In  his  writing  of  Olmstead  and  his  achievements,  a 
heroic  character  and  a  thrilling  incident  ate  added  to 
local  annals : 

N.  K.  Olmstead  was  a  man  of  unusual  muscular  power.  The 
severe  labor  he  performed  on  harbor  work,  perhaps  no  man  in  the 


-11  ].j.;.tf.'-».-y>ri'!r-:>.T-fifa;r^Trw'??rr^>iM*-'gia''gt»Wff^^ff'*rii 


^-;s?s#w«mf»«5l^^■■"l'«  •-.*»=&.  w&*ifi'.ai^  < 


^ 


was  eviuctid 
iuH  iiianage- 
ed  and  par- 
ut  adequate 
L>8  the  work 
leessant  rain 
;ould  nut  be 
enil)er,  when 
le  work  was 

enerous  with 
work.  Of 
1,    he    writes 

tier)  in  making 
i  facilities,  can 
was  a  salt  boat- 
ir  Le  was  a  lake 
itna  from  under 
miDunition  Imal 
if  111  and  honeat. 

led  at  Black 
I,  an  honored 
it  old  citizens 
iemeanor. 
[lievements,  a 
ace  added  to 


»r  power.    The 
8  no  man  in  the 


KAUhY    NAVIOATIOX. 


88 


country  coultl  i>i|iial.  lie  lived  in  BiitTalo  when  the  villn^rc  wax 
liiirnud  liy  tin'  Krltish,  and  IiIh  home  and  property  wt-re  dcHtroyeil. 
When  ])eace  was  dt'clarcd  he  declined  to  he  a  party  to  the  c<m- 
trni't,  retnainin^  alert  to  make  reprisal  while  on  the  river.  Man- 
aging to  obtain  a  load  of  .iiilitary  HiipplieH  to  transport  from 
Chippewa  to  Fort  Erie,  which  included  two  kegs  of  specie,  he 
landed  on  the  American  shore  and  hid  the  money,  lie  then  left 
the  frontier,  but  return<Hl  to  liutTalo  in  1S19.  When  on  harbor 
work  he  at  tiiii«?s  went  to  the  Canada  shore  for  boat-loa<l8of  stone, 
and  on  such  an  occasion  was  arrested  and  placed  in  a  boat  to  be 
taken  to  Chippewa.  The  boat  had  a  small  skiff  in  tow,  in  which 
was  a  single  paddle.  Whe..  nearing  Chippewa  he  leaped  into  the 
skiff,  cut  its  fastening,  and  t<M)k  to  the  rapid  current,  where  his 
captors  declined  his  pursuit.  By  extraordinary  exertion  he 
landed  on  Grass  Island.  0!)serving  a  l>oat  putting  out  from  Chip- 
pewa, he  again  braved  the  rapids,  and  munaged  to  make  Porter's 
mill-race.  A  less  active  and  powerful  man  would  have  been 
swept  over  the  falls.     The  next  day  he  resumed  harbor  work. 

The  que.stion  of  the  terminus  of  the  Erie  C:'.nal  was 
greatly  agitating  the  <H>nununity,  when  Oliver  Forwanl 
was  selected  as  the  master  mind  to  represent  the  inter- 
ests of  Buffalo  in  the  legislature,  where  he  maintained 
a  conspicuous  position  and  accomplished  the  great  ob- 
ject of  his  mission,  favorable  legislation  for  Buffalo. 

Judge  Charles  Townsend  was  one  of  those  pioneers 
who  will  ever  be  remembered  as  identified  with  the 
settlement  and  progress  of  Buffalo,  and  who  in  an 
eminent  degree  contributed  to  create  and  advance  its 
business  and  commercial  interests. 

Judge  Samuel  Wilkeson  is  gratefully  remembered 
and  more  generally  known  from  his  identification  with 
the   history   and  prosperity  of  Buffalo.      He  was  an 


M^,:-i4^iA'<u\  ..rffi^^^ir 


li 


84 


MODKUN     ANTIyrniKS. 


I  .'    ^ 


il  W' 


'V 


extniortUiiai'v  iiiiii),  of  Htroii^  iiiiixl,  ^r<*at  I'licrgy  an<) 
|M'i"Ht'Vt'raii('t',  j)i)sseHsiiig  great  piiltlic  H|tiiit  and  activi* 
t'litcrprise. 

Tlii'si!  iiu'ii  gavf  to  Biitfulo  a  liarltor  at  a  tiiiic  oj)j)or- 
tuiit>.  No  harbor,  no  canal :  no  canal,  no  city.  Tlu> 
liarWor  of  1H22  wan  the  liarliingcr  of  connnercial 
greatness,  falnilons  in  jn'oportions,  and,  in  view  of  the 
grand  lesultH,  the  most  important  consummation  in  the 
world  of  commerce. 

The  successful  navigation  of  the  Hudson  and  Dela- 
ware rivers  by  steam,  led  to  its  application  for  the 
navigation  of  Lake  Krie.  Early  in  the  winter  of  1817 
the  following  named  j)ersons  associated  to  construct  a 
Hteandtoat  for  Lake  Krie:  .loseph  H.  Stuart,  Nathan- 
iel Davis,  Asa  H.  Curtis,  Halph  I'ratt,  dames  Durant 
and  .John  Meiuls,  of  Alitany,  and  Robert  McC^neen, 
Samuel  McC'oon,  Alexander  MeMuir  and  Noah  Brown, 
of  New  York.  Mr.  McQueen,  a  machinist,  built  the 
engine,  and  Mr.  lirown,  a  shipwright,  constructed  the 
hull.  The  engine  was  constructed  in  New  York,  and 
from  Albany  conveyed  in  wagons  to  the  bank  of  the 
Niagara.  The  hull  and  boiler  were  built  at  Black 
Rock,  f^arly  in  1818  Mr.  Brown  laid  the  keel  on  the 
bank  of  the  river,  a  short  distance  above  the  mouth  of 
Conjockety  Creek,  in  a  sldjvyard  made  historic  by  the 
building  there  of  a  jrortion  of  C'onmiodore  Perry's 
fleet  five  years  previous,  with  which  he  fought  and 
won  his  historic  victory  on  Lake  Erie.  There,  on 
May  28,  1818,  was  launched  a  boat  with  dimensions  as 


.■-.I.  .».-»'3»jni.M »^^^<^^>^M^4im»«J»^■U<av— «* Ula^ i 'Vitiur, wM»f-^'-;ttiMU*an tk 


iicrgy  i«ml 
ind  active 

line  <)]»1HH- 
ity.  The 
■oininereial 
iew  of  tlie 
tion  ill  tile 

and  Dela- 
i)ii  for  the 
ter  of  1817 
eoiiHtnu't  a 
rt,  Nathaii- 
iie.s  Diiraut 

MeC^ueeii, 
oali  Brown, 
it,  built  the 
itnictetl  the 
1  York,  and 
laiik  of  the 
It  at  Black 
keel  on  the 
he  mouth  of 
toric  by  the 
ore  Perry's 
fought  and 

There,  on 
imensiong  as 


KAKI.Y    NAVIGATION. 


86 


follows:  rien;,'tli,  13;')  feet;  width,  32  fe*'t;  depth, 
MA  feet;  ttninajje,  338;  carrying  inaiiiHail,  foresail  and 
forctopiiiast  staysail.  On  the  '25th  day  of  August 
following,  the  steaniiioat  \V(ilk-ii)-thv-  Water  departed 
from  Black  Hock  on  her  first  passage  over  the  tiirbii- 
It'iit  waters  of  Lake  Erie,  bound  for  Kric,  (J rand 
Kiver,  Cleveland,  Sandusky  and  Detroit.  Over  this 
course  the  Itoat  reached  Detroit  in  44  hours,  deveh)j)- 
iiig  a  sjiced  of  seven  and  one-half  miles  per  hour. 
WIh'Ii  the  steamboat  essaye«l  to  stem  the  current  of 
the  Niagara,  a  scent*  picturestpie  and  humiliating  must 
have  been  presented.  Fancy  a  steamboat,  in  order  to 
make  progress,  calling  to  its  aiil  a  team  of  oxen,  and 
then  struggling  at  the  end  of  a  tow-line  while  the  oxen 
on  the  beach  were  alike  struggling  under  the  incentive 
of  an  elongated  ox-goa<l,  and  you  have  the  picture  I 
Such  was  the  inauguration  of  steam  navigati<m  on  the 
(heat  Lakes  eighty  years  ago. 

The  elongated  and  hyiihenated  name  of  the  original 
lake  steamboat  met  unfavorable  criticism,  and  the  ori- 
gin thereof  partakes  of  the  romantic.  In  1807,  when 
Kobert  Fulton  first  steamed  the  C/crmont  u])  the  Hud- 
son, an  Indian,  standing  on  the  bank,  gazing  silently 
at  the  boat  stemming  the  current  unaided  by  sails, 
filially  exclaimed,  "  Walks  in  the  water  I  "  The  den- 
izen of  the  forest  saw  the  boat  ascend  the  stream 
unaiued  by  visible  power — by  none  known  to  him. 
He  saw  the  paddle-wheel  revolve,  and  conceived  that 
when  a  paddle  struck  the  surface  of  the  water  a  step 


,  >rjta».->--^»»>*4»-i>*'«« 


^^A. 


ifW^ 


:jm^J 


I 


-tVi— 


3(S 


MODEKN     ANTiyriTIKH. 


fir 


forward  wuh  tukoii.  A  ^miiil  roiicrptioii  of  iiii  uiitii- 
tor«'(l  niind  !  Of  coiii-Hf  thi>  lioat  walktHl  in  tlit'  water; 
what  »'1m*!?  Tliin  intiiitivtt  *>stiiuat<'  of  tl>«'  ori^jiiuil 
Htcainltoat  si>iitiiiii'ntally  HU)rgfst4*(l  a  iiaiiu>  for  tiiu  first 
Htt'ani  VL'SHel  on  tlic  lakcH.  lint  the  uiiwioldy  iiatiio 
mot  with  advcrms  t'riticiHiii,  and  whh  Heldoni  applied — 
the  boat  having;  no  ('oni|M'er — "Tlie  Steandioat"  Iteiiif; 
('onsidert'd  ipiite  Hignitieant,  and  whicli  whm  her  n^nal 
appeUation. 

The  Hteanihoat  continiitMl  to  ply  HntrceHsfully  hetween 
Hlaek  H«M'k  and  Dtstroit  until  Novend)er,  1821,  when 
H  violent  Htorni  of  wind  Reached  her  a  short  distance 
ahove  the  mouth  of  Huft'alo  Creek.  To  th»  growing 
lake  (>onuneree  of  the  village  the  loss  of  the  boat  was 
it  serious  matter,  ha}>]>ening  at  its  very  doors,  yet  the 
calamity  received  hut  slight  consideration  from  the 
local  newspaper.  As  an  exhihit  of  the  progress  of 
journalistic  enterprise,  the  articje  devoted  to  the  wreck- 
ing is  interesting.  Evidently  the  fate  of  passengers 
and  crew  was  not  considered  of  iniportance  by  the 
local  writer.     The  following  is  his  contribution : 

It  is  with  regrt't  that  we  have  to  announce  that  "  Tlie  Stt-am- 
bont"  was  bt-arhed  al>out  one  hiindri'd  rods  nlxtvt*  thx  mouth  of 
HutTalo  Creek,  and  in  ho  badly  damaged  that  sht-  cannot  be  re- 
paired. Tlie  Iniat  was  lieavily  laden,  and  on  her  last  trip  for  the 
Heason.     We  cannot  learn  whether  she  was  in8ure<l  or  not. 

But  for  a  subsequent  publication  of  the  details  fur- 
nished by  a  }>assenger  on  board,  posterity  would  have 
been  deprived  of  a  thrilling  romance,  the  last  voyage 


•t«>*<Ai»««  Km  i%n>«»'-tt4*k-'i4B«-^jL; ' 


KAKI.Y    NAVKiATION. 


87 


\. 


if  III!  until- 
tilt'  wat«'r; 
li«>  original 
For  tlio  Hrst 
Jit'hly  naiiH! 
applitMl — 
loat"  lu'injj 
)  li(-r  iiHiial 

lly  lti'tw«>(Mi 
1H21,  wlum 
ji't  iHHtniu't! 
;ln  growiiij^ 
he  hoat  waH 
)()rs,  yi't  the 
111  from  the 
progreHH  of 
to  the  wreck- 
■  paHseiigovH 
aiiee  hy  the 
ition : 

,  "The  Steam- 
(■  tlie  ninutli  (if 
cannot  be  ro- 
iHt  trip  f(ir  the 
il  iir  n<it. 

i  detailH  fur- 
would  have 
I  last  voyage 


of  the   ]V<iH-!)>  thv-  Water.     The  narrative  \n  patlietie, 
and  uiii<|ue  in  nautieal  deHcription,  reading  as  followM : 

On  WcdncHihiy,  Octdlwr  31nt,  Ht  \  o'rliM-k  w  M.,  "  Thi-  Sti'RUi- 
Ixiat"  left  MlHi'k  U<ick  od  her  regular  trip  to  Dctniit.  The 
Ufuthrr,  thiiiiKh  Hoiiiewliat  rainy,  diil  nut  appear  thrcaleliinK. 
After  priM-eeiliii);^  u  Mlmrt  ilistani'it  up  tiie  lake  nlie  waH  Htrui'k  liy 
a  Never*)  M<|uall,  whicli  eniitiiiiieil  to  hi  ..  il  rou^'h  the  ni^'ht  with 
extreme  severity.  The  lake  liucame  ioi";)i  i  >  a  terrifying  decree, 
and  every  wave  Heomed  to  threaten  deittrueiion  to  the  Imat  and 
paHMenxern.  To  (iroceed  up  the  lake  wan  impoNHilile.  To  at- 
tempt t<i  return  to  Hlack  Work  ami<l  the  darknesH  and  howling 
teiiipeMt  would  be  eertain  deMtrui'tion.  She  was  then  anchoreil, 
iinii  for  a  time  hidd  fast.  The  PHftin^s  in  her  raliiuH  moved  at 
every  roll,  and  the  creaking'  of  her  tiiiiberN  was  a|ipalHnf(.  Hhe 
commenced  leaking,  and  her  engine  was  devoted  to  the  |iumpH, 
iiut  the  water  Incn^aHed  to  an  alarming  extent,  and  the  wind  In- 
creased to  an  alarming  degree.  Th«f  wind  blew  more  violent  us 
th)-  night  advanced,  anil  it  was  discovered  that  she  was  dragging 
her  anchors.  The  pas.seiigers  were  numerous,  and  many  of  them 
were  ladies,  whose  fears  and  cries  were  truly  heart-rending.  In 
this  scene  of  distress  and  danger,  all  the  passengers  feel  the 
warmest  gratitude  to  Captain  Kogers  for  the  prudence,  coolness 
and  intelligence  with  which  he  performed  his  duty.  The  boat 
was  now  at  the  mercy  of  the  waves,  until  live  o'clock  in  the 
morning,  when  she  beached,  and  we  all  debarked. 

BiKKALO,  Novemlwr  6,  1821. 

The  advent  of  the  Hteainboat  on  Lake  Erie  was  thuB 

announced  by  the  local  newspaper  of  BuiTalo.     Queer 

does  it  read  at  this  period : 

The  ladies  and  gentlemen  of  this  village  were  yesterday  grat- 
ified with  an  excursion  on  board  the  new  and  elegant  steamboat 
Walk-in-tht-Water,  by  the  politeness  of  Dr.  Stuart,  one  of  the 
promoters.  The  boat  left  the  hay,  off  Buffalo  Creek,  at  3  o'clock 
I".  .M.,  and  proceede<l  off  Point  Abino,  and  reviirned  at  7  o'clock. 
It  is  with  much  pride  that  we  can  recommend  this  mode  of  travel 


'  i 
I 

i 


.».^i*K '  .aB«.*A3  Wlwi*.. 


i^+:  >  ii^?i'^V?/-t^''W^$;5li;,  ■£»;&';;  w' 


5w^' ■■;■'■ 


-.a 


i"\  ;■ 


38 


MODERN     ANTIQUITIES. 


t<)  all  who  d«*sire  c(flerity.  We  bope  the  owners  will  reap  a  full 
linrvfSt  for  their  efforts  to  extern!  the  usefulness  of  this  inven- 
tion, which  ennobles  American  character. 

The  ennoblement  of  American  character  was  all  right, 
but  that  the  boat  was  the  harbinger  of  a  vast  com- 
merce for  Lake  Erie,  and  of  essential  imiwrtance  to 
local  interests,  evidently  liad  not  then  dawned  on  Buf- 
falo journalistic  enterprise  and  "nuich  pride." 

The  wreck  of  the  hull  of  the  steamboat  was  com- 
plete, but  her  machinery  remained  intact,  and  as  die 
had  been  a  financial  success,  it  was  determined  to 
rei)lace  her  by  the  building  of  a  new  hull.  Then  the 
citizens  of  Buffalo  entered  into  correspondence  with 
the  builders, .  urging  such  construction  at  Buffalo,  re- 
sulting in  a  promise  to  that  effect  if  assurance  be 
given  that  a  channel  would  be  provided  for  the  boat 
out  onto  the  lake  when  completed. 

Early  in  January,  1822,  Mr.  Noah  Brown,  ship- 
wright and  builder  of  the  original  boat,  came  from 
New  York  to  commence  the  construction,  and  first 
appeared  at  Black  Kock,  Buffalo  people  not  being 
aware  of  his  arrival  until  it  was  announced  that  the 
boat  was  to  be  built  at  Black  Kock,  and  that  the  con- 
tracts for  material  were  to  be  executed  at  the  Mansion 
House  that  evening.  Buffalonians  were  advised  that 
Brown  was  instructed  to  build  at  Buffalo,  with  condi- 
tions equal,  and  were  indignant  at  his  Iiasty  action  in 
not  having  conferred  with  them  before  concluding  to 
build  at  Black  Rock.     When  evening  came  the  lower 


1 


il  reap  a  full 
If  this  invfn- 


8  all  right, 
vast  c'oin- 
)ortance  to 
led  on  Buf- 

was  com- 
and  as  ihe 
erinined  to 
Then  the 
idence  with 
Buffalo,  re- 
ssurance  be 
for  the  boat 

Jrown,  ship- 
,  eaiue  from 
n,  and  first 
e  not  being 
eed  that  the 
that  the  con- 
the  Mansion 
advised  that 
,  with  condi- 
sty  action  in 
oncluding  to 
me  the  lower 


EARLY    NAVIGATION. 


89 


rooms  of  the  hotel  were  filled  with  indignant  villagers 
to  demand  explanation  from  Mr.  Brown,  then  in  the 
house,  and  determined,  if  possible,  to  obtain  a  reversal 
of  his  decision  in  favor  of  Black  Kock  before  contracts 
for  the  delivery  of  material  were  signed.  The  gentle- 
men from  tlie  river  village  were  on  hand  to  receive 
their  contracts,  and  whatever  was  done  must  be  done 
quickly.  Judge  Wilkeson  was  selected  to  first  inter- 
view Mr.  Brown.  The  Judge  was  unaccpiainted  with 
the  gentleman  from  New  York,  but  there  was  no  time 
for  formalities.  "  Get  the  boat  built  hcrt-  and  we  will 
sustain  your  action,"  were  his  instructions,  and  he  then 
sought  out  the  seclusion  of  Mr.  Brown  and  proceeded 
to  business. 

In  correspondence  \vith  the  principals  Judge  Wil- 
keson was  advised  that  if  a  bond  was  given  that  a 
channel  would  be  constr»icted  in  time  to  meet  the 
wants  of  the  boat,  Mr.  Brown  was  instructed  to  build 
at  Buffalo,  and  thereby  was  prepared  for  a  pointed 
dialogue.     It  opened  thus : 

"Mr.  Brown,  why  do  you  not  build  your  boat  here, 
pursuant  to  the  promise  of  the  company?"  was  the 
direct  (piestion  put.  With  dignified  tone  and  manner 
came  the  reply: 

"  Why,  sir,  I  arrived  in  your  village  at  an  early 
hour,  and  cor  eluded  to  occupy  the  morning  in  consult- 
ing the  sh'|/-carpenters  at  Black  Kock,  who  woi-ked  for 
me  in  building  the  Walk-in-thp-  Water.  While  there 
I  was  told  that  your  harbor  project  was  a  humbug, 


t'- 


K 


i 


^:t 


*^'^umi^-, 


;v:^iJV.:^'5v^;:!g!Sg,:^j^;:i^j;-;^j«^^ 


m 


[I 


40 


MODERN     ANTIQUITIES. 


and  if  built  here  the  boat  could  not  get  out  into  the 
lake.  Besides,  the  timber  contrat'tors  would  not  deliver 
timber  here  as  cheaply  as  there,  sind  that  is  the  reason 
why  I  concluded  to  build  at  Black  Rock." 

Many  older  citizens  will  readily  imagine  the  deter- 
mined attitude  of  Judge  Wilkeson  at  this  critical 
moment.  As  usual  in  emergencies,  he  was  equal  to 
the  occasion.  IHs  language  was  plain,  and  its  direct- 
ness sublime : 

"Mr.  Brown,  our  neighbors  have  done  us  injustice. 
Sir,  we  are  prepared  to  make  you  this  proposition : 
♦Ve  will  at  once  execute  a  bond  to  pay  to  your  com- 
pany fl50  per  day  for  each  and  every  day  the  boat  is 
detained  for  the  want  of  a  channel  into  the  lake  after 
the  first  day  of  May  next.  Tho  bond  will  also  stipulate 
that  all  required  timber  for  'construction  will  be  fur- 
nished lit  a  less  cost  than  offered  at  Bhick  Rock.  We 
will  at  once  ])lace  in  your  hands  a  sum  of  money,  the 
same  to  be  forfeited  in  case  a  sufficient  bond  is  not 
immediately  executed  and  to  you  delivered." 

It  was  known  that  the  agent  wa^  predisposed  in  favor 
of  Black  Rock,  but  the  proposition  stpiarely  meeting 
liis  instructions,  together  with  its  earnest  delivery,  sub- 
(tiied  the  gentleman  into  meekness  in  his  reply: 

^'Mr.  Wilkeson,  your  proposition  is  quite  satisfac- 
rorv,  and  therefore  I  have  no  alternative  but  to  accept 
it.  My  attorney,  Mr.  Moulton,  will  see  that  the  doc- 
uments are  properly  made  out  and  executed." 

The  day  following  a  bond  was  executed,  receiving 


^,!«Ut««MaiiWS»»K*<KKl««*«I"-*«B»»  ■*■■■■■ 


EARLY     NAVIGATION. 


41 


into  the 
>t  deliver 
|iie  reason 

he  deter- 
H   critical 
eqnal   to 
ts  direct- 
injustice. 
)position : 
your  coni- 
le  boat  is 
lake  after 
)  stipulate 
11  be  fur- 
ock.     We 
noney,  the 
ud  is  not 

d  in  favor 
y  meeting 
very,  sub- 

!  satisfac- 
to  accept 
;  the  doc- 
receiving 


the  signatures  of  nearly  all  resjionsible  residents  of 
the  village,  and  a  contract  to  furnish  all  required  tim- 
ber was  taken  by  William  A.  Carpenter,  and  by  him 
fulfilled.  The  boat  was  built  on  the  bank  of  Buffalo 
creek,  where  now  is  Indiana  street,  and  when  coniple- 
tod  was  taken  out  on  the  lake  by  Captain  William  T. 
Miller,  and  returned  without  hindrance,  and  so  con- 
tinued to  pass  out  and  in  for  twelve  years  thereafter. 
The  ])assing  of  the  steamboat  out  and  in  from  the  lake 
doubled  the  value  of  all  the  landed  property  in  the 
village  and  its  surroundings.  With  the  villagers  it 
was  a  day  of  jubilee,  and  tradition  says  the  majority 
did  not  disturb  their  beds  until  the  dawn  of  the  next 
day.  The  indomitable  will  and  energy  Judge  Wilke- 
son  displayed  in  the  construction  of  the  channel  for 
the  steamboat  was  the  talk  of  the  town  for  years  after, 
lie  had  labored  with  the  workmen,  often  in  water,  and 
conformed  to  the  rule  governing  the  hours  of  labor, 
from  daylight  to  evening  twilight.  With  him  it  was 
a  labor  of  love,  he  receiving  no  recompense  for  his 
service  other  than  benefits  received  in  general.  The 
work  performed  was  the  excavation  of  a  channel 
through  a  point  of  sand  and  gravel  twenty  yards  wide, 
having  an  average  height  above  water  of  seven  feet, 
to  a  depth  of  nine  feet  below  the  water  level.  A 
modern  dredge  would  make  an  easy  and  short  job  of 
it,  but  then  only  improvised  implements  for  excavation 
below  the  surface  of  water  were  to  be  obtained,  and 
of  a  nature  most  crude. 


.4 


Vi 


^A*«s^^s?^iSiai^ai^^5S«K-l"^iPi^i^^ 


MODKKN     ANTIQUITIES. 


CHAPTER  IV. 


PuBMC  aimiaement  for  Buffalo  villagers  was  first 
provided  in  1820,  when  Mr.  Charles,  a  ventriloquist, 
gave  exhibitions  in  the  court-house.  Then  a  caravan, 
comprising  an  elephant,  camel,  lion,  tiger,  zebra,  and 
a  family  of  moukeys,  were  exhibited.  Then  came  a 
show  of  wax  figures,  representing  notables  of  Colony 
times.  On  Main  below  Clinton  street  was  a  theatre, 
where  "King  Richard"  first  appeared  in  Buffalo  in 
the  person  of  Mr.  Maywood.  And  there  Tom  and 
Jerry  ap})eared  before  their  advent  in  a  liquid  state. 
In  1828  Mr.  Lowell  established  a  museum  in  the 
building  now  242  Main  street,  he  leasing  the  premises 
from  Josiah  Beardsley. 

My  earliest  recollection  of  public  entertainment  was 
that  of  "  Old  Sickles'  Show,"  which  with  me  antedates 
the  circus.  During  the  decatle  of  the  thirties,  a  benev- 
olent-faced, bald-pated  old  Yankee  from  Connecticut, 
named  Sickles,  made  annual  visits  to  Western  New 
York  exhibiting  his  puppet  show,  an  entertainment 
designed  to  please  the  juveniles,  who,  with  their  grand- 
mas, mammas  and  aunts,  were  his  delighted  audiences. 
Usually  the  show  was  given  in  the  ball-room  of  the 
neighborhood  tavern,  where,  from  a  wire  stretched 
across  the  upper  end  of  the  room,  draw-curtains  were 


t;-'*J>r?l-.-'"V/Ait'r- 


,(w^*-5.;*i*i.'-t«.^i»^'>«*i"''5^SK*fai' '" 


^^^ri:fht^J:*Sii«i^smimi^^^f» 


stmt 


Haaa 


EARLY    AMUSEMENTS. 


43 


was  first 
riloquist, 
caravan, 
ebra,  and 
1  came  a 
f  Colony 
theatre, 
Buffalo  in 
Tom  and 
lid  state, 
in    in  the 
!  premises 

nient  was 
antedates 
a  benev- 
inecticut, 
;ern  New 
tainment 
ir  grand- 
udiencfis. 
n  of  the 
itret'-ihed 
tins  were 


suspended,  which,  when  drawn,  an  assemblage  of  pup- 
pets appeared,  representing  both  sexes,  and  which, 
through  their  connection  with  invisible  wires,  would 
hold  receptions,  dance  reels  and  minuets  with  precision, 
taking  steps  in  time  to  the  notes  of  an  invisible  violin. 
In  addition  to  the  puppets  a  series  of  tableaux  were 
presented,  ending  with  that  of  the  "Balx's  in  the 
Woods,"  a  scene  designed  to  bring  sobs  and  tears 
from  the  child  audiences.  There  was  represented  a 
lonely  forest,  the  lost  chihlren  lying  on  the  ground  in 
death's  end)race,  when  would  appear  a  family  of  robins, 
hopping  and  flitting  about,  gathering  leaves,  with  which 
they  covered  the  dead  babes.  The  effect  of  this  scene 
on  sympathetic  childhood  is  illustrated  in  a  verse  of 
Eliza  Cook's  "  Address  to  the  Robin  "  : 

How  ray  tiay  heart  throbbed  with  sorrowful  heaves, 
That  kept  choking  my  eyes  and  my  breath, 

When  1  heard  of  tliee  spreading  a  shroud  of  green  leaves 
O'er  the  little  ones  lonely  in  death. 

The  original  troupe  of  Negro  Minstrels — "burnt 
cork  artists" — was  organized  and  first  exhibited  in 
Buffalo  in  the  latter  thirties,  by  Edwin  Christy,  a  dock 
saloon-keeper.  The  industry  was  original  with  Christy, 
he  taking  inspiration  from  the  performance  of  Dick 
Sliter  and  George  Harrington,  two  town  boys.  Sliter 
was  precocious  as  a  jig  dancer,  while  Harrington  could 
beat  time  with  his  hands  expertly.  When  about  fif- 
teen years  of  age,  the  boys  would  repair  to  the  steam- 
boat  wharves   and    display   their   peculiar   talent   to 


I 


^^SS£8«as^^i; 


'^i^^M^^^ 


f!m^ 


44 


MODERN     ANTIQUITIES. 


luhniring  crowds,  who  would  strew  small  coin  around 
the  feet  of  the  dancer.  At  first  the  beaten  jig  time 
was  a  rapid  patting  on  the  fore  thighs,  called  juba : 

.Tuba  up  and  juba  down, 

Juba  all  around  tbe  town,  adfiititum. 

Christy  patronized  the  two  boys,  Harrington  being 
his  step-son,  usually  called  George  Christy,  who  would 
locivte  their  exhibitions  fronting  or  within  his  saloon. 
Christy  was  a  fine  ballad  singer  and  a  violinist,  and  in 
these  accomplishments  the  stei)-son  was  his  diligent 
student.  With  Sliter  and  Harrington  the  nucleus,  by 
adding  tambourine  and  banjo  players,  and  an  additional 
violinist,  an  exhibition  troupe  was  constituted,  and  in 
a  room  over  his  saloon,  Christy,  as  manager,  gave 
daily  and  nightly  his  "  Darkey  Minstrel  Show "  to 
crowded  houses,  and  from  the  first  opening  Christy's 
fortune  was  secure.  From  time  to  time  additional 
talent  was  added,  and  "Christy's  Minstrels"  were 
widely  famous  in  their  portrayal  of  negro  character, 
excentricity  and  extravaganza.  Christy  was  progress- 
ive in  taking  his  troupe  to  New  York  City,  where  he 
.established  them  in  permanent  quarters,  and  where 
they  continuously  performed  to  crowded  audiences, 
their  manager  eventually  retiring  with  a  fortune.  Thus 
originated  the  "burnt-cork  artists,"  so  numerous  for 
years  thereafter. 

Dick  Sliter  became  the  most  diverse  dancer  in  the 
world.     In  a  match  exhibition  against  John  Diamond, 


-':-ld^^^''^*^i^-'^-fli'iSS^'^ii^*^^'^*^'^*'^'^^l^'  ■ 


:'&iii^mm^^'m0S^^ 


OLD    FERRY    LANDING. 


45 


around 
Ijig  time 
luba: 


[)n  being 
lo  would 
s  saloon, 
t,  and  in 
diligent 
cleua,  by 
Iditional 
1,  and  in 
:er,  gave 
low  "   to 
Christy's 
dditional 
8 "    were 
haracter, 
progress- 
vhere  he 
d  where 
idiences, 
e.    Thus 
rous  for 

T  in  the 
diamond, 


he  danced  his  Rattlesnake  Jig  one  hour  and  five  min- 
utes without  repeating  a  step.  During  his  exhibition 
tour  he  traversed  two  continents.  In  London,  in 
l)rivate  exhibition,  he  jigged  before  an  audience  of 
royalty. 

A  ferry  across  to  Fort  Erie  from  the  historic  black 
rock,  near  Bird  Island,  existed  at  an  early  date,  there 
being  one  reported  by  early  voyagers  in  times  of  the 
Revolution.  In  1800  one  O'Neil  operated  it,  until 
1806,  when  Major  Frederick  Miller  took  charge,  and 
in  1808  he  gave  over  to  Asa  Stanard.  In  deference 
to  the  war  the  ferry  was  suspended  in  1812  for  a  time, 
until  1814,  when  it  was  renewed  by  Lester  Brace. 
Until  1821  Brace  operated  the  ferry,  when  Major 
Donald  Fraser  became  proprietor.  The  hi  ats  used 
were  scows,  propelled  by  sweeps,  wielded  by  the  strong 
arms  of  four  skilled  watermen. 

In  1825  Lester  Brace  and  Major  Fraser  built  the 
horse-power  boat,  which  they  continued  to  operate 
until  steam-power  was  adopted  for  the  ferry  by  James 
Plaggart,  in  1840.  In  the  construction  of  the  Erie 
Canal  in  1825,  the  old  rock,  which  so  long  served 
as  a  ferry  landing,  was  blasted  away  and  the  landing 
removed  to  where  it  remains,  at  the  foot  of  Ferry  street. 

The  old-time  horse-boat  was  a  curiosity  of  the  period, 
it  being  the  pioneer  of  its  kind  west  of  the  Hudson 
river.  When  first  operated  it  received  liberal  patron- 
age from  many  curious  to  inspect  its  working.  The 
machinery  of  the  boat  consiste<l  of  a  horizontal  tread- 


wm§^^mms^xm^&^m>¥Msmm^ffmmMmmm-m 


f^A-. 


r^ 


'  ,?" 


I  i 


4     "i 


•A 

a 

< 


•ktJm^,tiA<,.--k:i.»^Mt--.W^ti'm-^  i>^t<^W'tmilfAi»Mlif,¥t^^ 


HOR8E-POWER    HOAT. 


47 


c 

a 

< 


3S 


wlieel  the  width  of  the  decfk  and  placed  even  therewith, 
antl  havinj;  a  system  of  i'ogs  and  gearing  which  tnrned 
tlie  sliaft  liohling  the  pachlle  wheels.  Tlie  horses  trod 
on  either  side,  the  driver  between  with  whij)  in  hand, 
with  which  he  flayed  the  i)oor  beasts  while  the  boat 
was  nnder  way.  When  a  boy,  the  writer  often  crossed 
the  Niagara  river  on  the  horse-boat,  and,  while  pitying 
the  ])oor  horses,  detested  the  man  witii  the  whip. 

Major  Donald  Fraser  was  a  valiant  soldier  of  the 
war  of  1812.  lie  was  on  the  staff  of  (Jeneral  Pike 
when  that  brave  officer  was  killed  at  Toronto ;  was  on 
the  staff  of  General  Brown  at  Chippewa  and  Lundy's 
Lane ;  aide  to  General  Porter  at  Fort  Krie,  and  cap- 
tain of  the  horse-boat  when  there  were  no  battles  to 
light.  A  brave  man  and  a  patriot  was  the  Major,  and 
withal  a  Scotchman,  and  as  a  Scotchman  I  am  prond 
of  him — as  said  Josh  IMllings  of  his  ancestor  who  was 
a  "  phiddler." 

In  March,  1824,  the  lone  steamboat  on  Lake  Erie 
was  thns  advertised  : 

The  steainl>oat  Superior  will  sail  from  BuiTalo  on  or  about  the 
20th  (lay  of  A|)ril,  next,  if  the  lake  is  then  clear  of  ice,  making 
nine  day  trips  during  the  season — the  November  trips  dependent 
on  the  state  of  the  weather.  Passengers  will  be  landed  at  Grand 
Hiver,  Cleveland  and  Sandusky,  unless  prevented  by  stress  of 
weather.  If  a  trip  should  be  made  to  the  upper  lakes  during  the 
season,  due  notice  will  be  given.  All  shipments  of  merchandise 
on  the  boat  will  be  at  the  risk  of  the  owner  or  shipper  thereof, 
and  that  the  captain  of  the  boat  is  to  receive  no  freight  unless 
shipped  under  such  conditions.  J.  I.  Ostraxdek, 

Aluanv,  March  10,  1824.  Secretary. 


■.anat^m^'" 


■i?|;^S5i^^3^^.i^i^SS"-^/'«:?^rsy5^;^^ 


48 


MODKUN     ANTIQIITIKS. 


i 


,    .     ''  ' 


During  the  dooado  of  the  twontien,  villajje  newH- 
])U|H'rs  contaiiuul  many  unique  advertiHenientH,  Houie 
of  wliich  were  Hpieetl  with  luunor. 

A  tleahM'  in  pottery  (lesired  those  indebted  to  him 
whose  ])romiHes  had  mature*!,  to  nuike  payment,  ^>  or 
new  promiseH." 

An  ailvertiser,  witii  absurd  honesty,  ealled  attention 
of  tlie  owner  to  a  green  eotton  umbrella  left  in  his  ottiee. 

H.  S.  Seynn)ur  dealt  in  lottery  tickets.  H»'  gra- 
ciously, by  advertisement,  notiHed  "  two  young  men, 
living  somewhere  in  the  town  of  Clarence,  that  their 
ticket  pureliased  of  him  had  drawn  a  prize  of  one 
thousand  dollars,  and  that  the  cash  was  awaiting  the 
rightful  owners  at  his  otti(!e." 

An  advertisement  of  Peter  Colt  makes  the  diversity 
of  the  present  department  stores  ancient  history : 
"  Pork,  whisky,  cross-cut  saws,  buffalo  robes,  gin  and 
feathers." 

In  connection  with  a  general  store,  Pratt  and  Meech 
did  a  forwarding  business.  They  were  enabled  to  guar- 
antee the  delivery  of  goods  from  Albany  "  in  the  short 
space  of  twelve  days."  They  offered  for  sale,  "  drugs, 
dye-stuffs,  medicines,  surgical  instruments,  leather,  In- 
dian blankets,  rum,  log-chains,  groceries,  salt,  whisky 
and  whitefish." 

"  For  Sale — A  negro  servant  girl,"  was  the  adver- 
tisement of  .lonas  Harrison. 

In  1820  five  young  negro  slaves  were  brought  to 
Buffalo   from  Kentucky,  the  property  of   Mrs.  Gen. 


.»►■.•  ^:w»9»<(ar.,i.v*.->--j-,_  ,=?!:».«;.'-.-.:■  .-ji,fu«e;.i.v«j«,..«s»ai. 


UNIQUE    ADVEKTIHEMENTS. 


49 


igi^  news- 
iitK,  some 

il  to  him 
iieiit,  "  or 

nttentiou 
liiH  oftice. 

mng  men, 
that  their 
i/.e  of  one 
aiting  the 

diversity 
;  history : 
8,  gin  and 

ind  Meeeh 
id  to  giiar- 
I  the  sliort 
e,  "drugs, 
eather,  In- 
ilt,  whisky 

the  adver- 

)rought  to 
Mrs.  Gen. 


Peter  B.  Porter.  After  tiling  a  bond  that  they  would 
he  liberated  at  the  age  of  twenty -one  years,  Mrs.  Por- 
ter was  permitted  to  hold  her  chattels. 

Samuel  Edsall  railed  attention  to  his  tannery  and 
shoe-shop,  situated  "  on  the  road  to  Black  Kock,  near 
the  village  of  Buffalo,"  now  the  corner  of  Niagara  and 
Mohawk  streets. 

For  Sai.k — A  lease  of  lot  No.  4,  L«  Coiitoulx  Block,  opposite 
Cheapaide.  On  the  preiniHos  are  two  stores  witb  rooms  in  the 
rear  for  dwellings,  and  space  for  family  gardens.  One  dollar  and 
fifty  cents  per  foot  front  per  annum.  Thomas  Quiolky. 

The  location  is  now  191  Main  street. 

A  prominent  hotel  advertisement  re&.Is  as  follows : 

E.  Belden,  proprietor  of  the  Mansion  House,  respectfully  in- 
forms the  pulilic  that  he  has  taken  the  old-established  stage 
liouse  at  the  south  end  of  the  village  of  BuffaU>,  long  known  as 
the  Landon  stand.  The  house  is  large  and  in  complete  repair. 
Its  spacious  piazzas  furnish  the  most  extensive,  rich  and  varied 
])rospects  of  land  and  water,  overlooking  Buffalo  harlmr,  Niagara 
river,  Fort  Erie,  the  lake,  and  extensive  landscapes  on  the  Amer- 
ican and  Canadian  shores.  His  extensive  yards,  gardens  and 
shrubbery  will  furnish  pleasant  and  refreshing  retreat  to  ladies 
and  gentlemen  after  the  fatigues  of  travelling.  Carriages  with 
safe  drivers  and  moderate  fare  will  be  furnished  to  men  of  busi- 
ness or  parties  of  pleasure  wishing  to  travel  out  of  the  usual 
stage  routes.  His  stables  and  pastures  are  large  and  convenient. 
His  house  at  all  times  will  be  supplied  with  the  fruits  of  the 
season,  and  the  best  liquors  and  pr""'»ion3  the  country  affords ; 
and  he  trusts  that  approved  experience  and  punctual  attendance 
and  good  servants  will  keep  up  the  loug-establishid  character  of 
the  house,  and  give  general  satisfaction  to  the  public. 

Buffalo,  July,  1824. 


v»».J«..«K'»-V«l«S' 


■i&'i.'Jil'J^':  ■ 


*^-' 


■.I^jaW": 


.'iO 


MODKKN      .NTigi'ITIKI*. 


1^ 

111 
k 


m 


I! 


I  I 


i!i^' 


('IIA1»TKK    V. 


The  yonr  1825  wjih  larfyely  ovuntfiil  to  tins  jM-oplo  <»f 
HiiH'alo.  The  ccli'ltratioii  of  the  o|M'iiin^  of  the  Krie 
C'aiial  WUH  an  event  of  wide  iiii|)ortaiiee,  reaching  from 
the  Hea-l)oar'<l  to  tlie  (tontines  of  Western  eivilization, 
with  liuft'alo  the  Htorni-eenter,  as  it  were.  (iov.  Hewitt 
Clinton  and  Htaft'  eanie  to  I^iitfalo  and,  with  a  loeal 
vonnnittee,  hoarded  the  Scnrni  (Jh'wf,  a  ))oat  con- 
Htrneted  for  tht>  purpose,  and  nnuhi  the  paasafru  of  the 
canal  to  Albany.  The  departure  of  the  hoat  was 
announced  hy  the  diseharj^c  of  a  82-poundei'  Other 
cannon  were  placed  on  the  hank  of  the  caiml  within 
hearing  distance  all  the  way  to  Albany,  which  were 
discharged  in  turn,  and  thus  the  departure  of  the 
Sriif'ca  (Jhicflvom  Hiiffalo  was  announced  at  Albany 
in  one  hour  and  forty  minutes,  then  the  fastest  dis- 
j)atch  time  on  record. 

The  Black  Rock  dignitaries,  not  then  reconstructed 
from  their  civil  war  with  Buffalonians,  declined  to  join 
Buffalo  in  celebrating,  but  chartered  the  new  boat 
JViar/tii'd,  built  by  the  late  Josiah  Beardsley  to  run 
as  a  packet  to  and  from  Lockport,  which  they  had 
painted  and  decorated  profusely,  carrying  a  large,  live 
eagle  perched  aloft  on  a  standard,  for  their  passage 
down  the  canal.     Intending  to  lead  the  Seneca  Chief 


-■..*_  .c'^,«  tvj   '•'■■fv 


<  .j:->f««iiV4',>AJti»««*4''}«4U'VNM^.'>: 


.  ■i*K.■J^tt■^.■il~,A,.^^m,-■r'y^•  tSfi^ 


OI'KNINU   OK    KKIK   CANAL. 


ftl 


'   j>t'OJ)lt'  (tf 

the   Kriu 

hiiig  fr«>iii 
iviliziition, 
ov.  Dewitt 
itii  a  local 

Ituat  c'oii- 
*aji;e  of  the 

hoat  waH 
ei  Other 
iiial  within 
whieh  were 
ure  of  the 
at  Albany 
fastcHt  ilis- 

(Constructed 
iued  to  join 
)  new  boat 
sley  to  run 
h  they  had 
a  large,  live 
leir  passage 
eneca  Chief 


through  the  state,  they  started  from  Black  Kock  two 
hours  in  advance  of  that  boat's  schcduh-d  time  from 
Buffalo,  luit  siu'h  design  was  frustrated  by  an  order  of 
(iovernor  (/linton  that  no  Itoat  be  passed  through  th*: 
locks  eastward  in  advance  (»f  the  Svnevn  Chief,  The 
Black  Hock  party  consisted  of  (lencral  I'orter,  Shel- 
don Thompson,  Lester  Brace,  and  a  Mr.  Mason. 
Kveiitually  all  became  reconciled  and  were  potent 
faetoFH  in  promoting  the  interests  of  Buft'alo,  Mr. 
Tli<unps<M»  becoming  mayor  of  the  city  in  1840,  and 
Mr.  Brace  for  two  terms  was  sheriiT  of  the  county. 

The  visit  to  Bnffah)  of  General  Lafayette  the  same 
year  was  an  event  tending  to  arouse  latent  patriotic 
enthusiasm.  American  gratitude  to  the  liberty-pro- 
moting foreigner  was  boundless,  and  his  reception  at 
Buft'alo  was  most  enthusiastic.  The  comnmnities  of 
Western  New  York  gathered  in  mass  to  greet  him. 
t)n  a  platform,  erected  at  the  corner  of  Court  and 
Main  streets,  he  was  introduced  to  the  mass  of  people 
by  (ieneral  Porter,  and  the  addr>)ss  of  welcome  there 
made  to  him  by  Oliver  Forward  was  considered  the 
most  dignified  and  eloquent  presented  to  the  General 
while  in  the  country.  Ked  Jacket,  also,  improved  his 
opportunity  to  have  a  "  big  talk."  When  the  cere- 
mony was  ended,  the  General  wf  •  jscorted  by  the 
military  and  citizens  to  the  residence  of  General  Por- 
ter, at  Black  Kock,  where  he  was  entertained  for  a 
day,  and  then,  in  like  manner,  was  escorted  to  the 
Falls. 


;i?: 


■■■tv.>!iU:..v 


;JSK?:-- 


'^>m 


i 

km, 


11 


ll 


|l  I  si 


ii  *i^ 


ll  i 
^  m 


ii 


^;i 


I:. 


52 


MODERN     ANTIQUITIES. 


By  far  the  most  sensational  event  of  the  year  was 
the  hanging  of  the  three  Thayers  in  open  view  on 
Niagara  Square.  Sufficiently  sensational  to  stir  up  a 
much  larger  community — sufficient  to  cause  the  inva- 
sion of  the  town  by  full  twenty  thousand  visitors,  a 
number  sufficient  to  overwhelm  a  struggling  village  of 
two  thousand  inhabitants. 

Lafayette  Park,  now  classic  ground,  was,  in  village 
times,  an  open  space,  with  here  and  there  a  tree 
of  indigenous  growth.  On  the  Main  street  edge, 
fronting  the  site  of  the  monument,  a  spring  of  water 
bubbled  out  of  the  earth  and  ran  a  rivulet  across  the 
street  and  down  Court  street,  finally  mingling  with  a 
larger  stream  crossing  Niagara  at  Mohawk  street.  At 
the  spring  the  side-path  was  continued  over  a  wide 
oaken  plank  spanning  the  outlet.  Here  Farmer's 
Brother,  Red  Jacket  and  other  lords  of  the  soil  were 
wont  to  quench  their  thirst,  drinking  from  a  tin  cup 
taken  from  the  top  of  a  buttonwood  stump  near  by ; 
here  the  village  boys  played  two -old -cat,  tag  and 
leap-frog,  and  on  the  Fourth  of  July  exploded  fire- 
crackers and  gorged  themselves  with  gingerbread  and 
small-beer ;  here  village  orators  waxed  eloquent  advo- 
cating the  construction  of  the  Erie  Canal,  and  a  har- 
bor for  Buffalo ;  here  General  McComb,  when  head 
of  the  army,  patriotically  addressed  the  people,  and 
Henry  Clay,  Daniel  Webster  and  the  patriot  Kossuth 
orated  in  like  manner.  The  beautiful  Soldiers'  Monu- 
ment stands  on  the  direct  line  of  march  of  the  three 


■7<^'^;A;<<.«<«w»><ia*i->'<ia^t«»»WII»ir<kM^«..««M^^ 


year  was 
view  on 
8tit  up  a 
the  inva- 
^isitors,  a 
village  of 

in  village 
re  a  tree 
■eet   edge, 

of  water 
icross  the 
ng  with  a 
treet.  At 
er  a  wide 

Farmer's 
>  soil  were 

a  tin  cup 
[)  near  by ; 
t,  tag  and 
loded  fire- 
rbread  and 
[uent  advo- 
and  a  har- 
when  head 
)eople,  and 
ot  Kossuth 
iers'  Monu- 
f  the  three 


m 


LAFAYETTE    PARK. 

Thayers  down  Court  street  to  their  execution  on  Niag- 
ara square;  and  six  years  later,  Holt,  the  wife-killer, 
marched  in  procession  to  his  open-air  exhibition. 

In  1932  Buffalo  will  celebrate  its  centennial— j«8*  «"« 
hundred  years  a  citv.  From  the  base  of  the  monument 
the  orator  of  the  day  will  glorify  the  deeds  of  the  heroes 
it  commemorates  and  boast  of  the  progress  of  Buffalo, 
quoting  from  the  address  of  Mayor  Grover  Cleveland 
delivered  from  the  same  place  fifty  years  before. 

The  little  park  came  nigh  unto  being  the  scene  of  a 

hand-to-hand  conflict  between   village  neighbors  on 

election  day  in  1828.     The  voting  place  was  at  the 

corner  of   Clinton  and  Washington  streets.     On  the 

eve  of  the  election  the  partisans  of  General  Jackson 

erected  a  hickory  flag-staff  on  the  opposite  corner  and 

from  its  top  they  proposed  to  fly  a  flag  on  the  day  of 

the  election  bearing  a  likeness  of  their  candidate  for 

President.     The  Adams  men  objected  to  the  flauntmg 

of  the,  to  them,  offensive  emblem  so  near  to  the  polls, 

and  resolutely  declared  that  if  the  flag  was  raised  they 

would  pull  it  down,  forcibly  if  they  must.     The  Jack- 

soniaiis  asserted  their  right  to  fly  the  flag  and  their 

determination  to  raise  it  and  to  defend  it  when  raised. 

Such  was  the  situation  on  the  eve  of  the  election. 

On  Buffalo  Plains  were  resident  a  band  of  stalwart 
men  noted  for  their  prowess  and  of  their  proneness  to 
assert  it  when  occasion  offered.  Of  these  were  in- 
cluded Elijah  and  William  Holt,  John  and  Josiah 
Hosford,  Rowland  and  Daniel  Cotton,  John  and  Jacob 


Sj*  ^'^^'Wi'M^ 


w. 


r 


64 


MODERN     ANTIQUITIES. 


Scott,  Liiman  Smith  and  Nelson  Adams,  a  Si)artan 
band  of  Jacksonians,  loaded  to  the  muzzle  with  cam- 
paign enthusiasm. 

To  the  "  Plains  Kangers,"  as  they  were  called,  the 
village  partisans  of  "  Old  Hickory  "  applied  for  aid  to 
defend  their  flag.  On  the  morning  of  the  election  the 
flag  was  hoisted  to  the  pole-top.  Then  the  Adams 
men  gathered  in  numbers  at  the  Park  House,  corner 
of  Main  and  Clinton  streets,  where  an  assaulting  force 
was  organized,  who  proceeded  in  a  body  to  demand 
the  lowering  of  the  flag.  When  they  approached  the 
flag-staff  and  discovered  the  Plains  contingent  among 
those  whom  they  were  to  encounter,  a  halt  was  called, 
a  consultation,  and  then  a  dispersion  of  the  attacking 
force.  No  demand  was  made  and  the  flag  waved,  and 
General  Jackson  was  elected  President  without  blood- 
shed in  Buffalo.  Thus  was  exemplifled  the  maxim : 
To  promote  peace  prepare  for  war — and  the  folly  of 
partisan  rancor. 

Preserved  in  frame  by  the  Historical  Socii  ty  is  an 
old  ball  ticket  of  the  village  era,  unique  in  print,  and 
I'ural  in  that  the  assemblage  is  requested  to  meet  at 
two  o'clock  p.  M.  Evidently  the  small  hours  of  the 
morning  were  devoted  to  rest  and  sleep  by  the  dancers 
of  the  period.  However,  they  danced  with  both  feet 
while  the  flddler  voiced  in  a  manner  thus : 

Right  band  across,  left  hand  back, 

Keep  your  steps  in  time, 
Take  hold  of  your  partner's  band 

And  balance  in  a  line. 


*■'  '^(i(**AAhii^^i;«^;iiri*»tH:ii«AiftA'.; 


BUFFALO    PLAINS. 


ailed,  the 
for  aid  to 
Bction  the 
>e  Adams 
se,  corner 
ting  force 

0  demand 
ached  the 
mt  aniong 
vas  called, 

attacking 
jraved,  and 
lout  blood- 
le  maxim: 
he  folly  of 

)ciity  is  an 
print,  and 
to  meet  at 
lurs  of  the 
the  dancerH 

1  both  feet 


CHAPTER    VI. 


During  the  village  era  an  adjacent  community  to 
Buffalo  villagers  were  the  settlers  of  Buffalo  Plains, 
with  whom  they  lived  in  the  same  township,  met  at  the 
l)olls,  socially  and  at  church,  virtually  one  community. 
The  Plains  were  originally  settled  by  a  colony  of  far- 
mer»  from  the  lake  region  of  Central  New  York.    First 
to  come  on  a  tour  of  inspection  was  Samuel  Atkins,  in 
1806,  from  Cayuga,  on  horseback,  traversing  Indian 
trails  through  a  dense  forest  to  Buffalo— not  to  specu- 
late in  village  lots,  but  to  purchase  farm  lands  for 
himself  and  others  who  desired  to  settle  near  unto  the 
site  of  the  great  city  that  was  to  arise  at  the  foot  of 
Lake  Erie. 

Mr  Atkins  remained  at  Buffalo  through  the  sum- 
mer, returning  to  Cayuga  in  the  fall  of  that  year, 
liefore  his  return  he  engaged  for  himself  and  others 
tracts  of  land  lying  on  the  "Main  Road"  from  four 
to  six  miles  from  the  hamlet  at  the  foot  of  the  lake,  m 
a  northeast  direction  ;  selecting  for  himself  about  three 
hundred  acres  on  the  east  side  and  midway  of  the 
tract,  on  which,  while  at  Buffalo  in  1806,  he  erected 
a  house  of  logs  wherein  to  place  his  famdy  the  fol- 
lowing year. 


II  Ipi 


66 


MODEKN     ANTIQUITIES. 


i 


^n  the  spring  of  1807,  there  left  Cayuga  with  their 
families,  Samuel  Atkins,  Ephraim  Brown,  Ezekiel 
Smith,  Rowland  Cotton,  Koswell  Hosford,  William 
and  Elijah  Holt,  Caleb  and  Joseph  Fairchild ;  all  on 
horseback,  with  such  household  effects  as  could  be  so 
trans^mrted.  The  year  following  they  were  joined  by 
the  families  of  Zachary  Griffin  and  Dr.  Daniel  Chapin. 
All  of  these  took  up  lands  and  formed  the  old  coni- 
munnity  of  farmers  who  were  the  original  settlers  of 
]{uf¥alo  Plains.  Nearly  all  were  soldiers  of  the  Revo- 
lution and  drew  pensions  from  the  Govei-nment,  and 
had  grown-up  sons  and  daughters  skilled  in  husbandry. 
Mr.  Atkins'  family  consisted  of  five  sons  and  two 
daughters ;  three  of  the  sons  and  both  daughters  were 
approaching  maturity — a  formidable  force  to  make  a 
new  home  in  a  new  country.  With  the  exception  of 
Mr.  Cotton  and  the  Holts,  the  heads  of  all  these  fam- 
ilies occupied  their  new-made  homes  during  ths  remain- 
der of  their  lives.  In  1826  Mr.  Cotton  sold  his  farm 
to  Washington  A.  Russell  and  settled  in  the  town  of 
Lancaster ;  and  subsequently  the  Holts  sold  theirs  to 
Elisha  Ensign  and  removed  to  Ohio. 

The  frontage  of  the  Griffin  farm  is  now  divided  by 
the  Belt  Line  railroad  as  it  approaches  Main  street 
from  the  south.  The  Chapin  farm  now  comprises 
beautiful  Willow  Lawn,  the  home  of  Mrs.  Elam  R. 
Jewett,  and  the  southerly  half  of  Park  Meadow,  in- 
cluding the  magnificent  groves,  lawns  and  terraces 
fringing  the  north  bank  of  Pai-k  Lake.     The  frontage 


'  HaKi4i«rfn3V«iiewr^i^w.<'N;v:<KNbastMi<i« . 


BUFFALO    PLAINS. 


57 


ith  their 

Ezekiel 

William 

all  on 

Id  be  so 

oined  by 

Chapin. 

old    COiU- 

3ttler8  of 

he  Revo- 

nent,  and 

isbandry. 

and   two 

iters  were 

o  make  a 

eption  of 

;he8e  fam- 

13  remain- 

his  farm 

e  town  of 

theirs  to 

ivided  by 
ain  street 
comprises 
Elam  R. 
adow,  in- 
terraces 
!  frontage 


of  the  Cotton  farm  con'dnnes  in  occupation  by  the  son 
and  daughters  of  Mr.  Russell,  while  the  remainder 
comprises  the  site  of  modern  dwellings  on  Parkside, 
together  with  the  northerly  half  of  Park  Meadow  and 
picturesque  Park  Forest.  The  Holt  and  Smith  farms 
are  now  the  place  of  extensive  stone  quarries  and  water- 
lime  works ;  and  the  Brown  farm,  lying  opposite  the 
County  Almshouse,  is  mostly  an  unoccupied  waste; 
and  so  is  the  Fairchild  property,  situated  on  the  west 
side  of  the  I'oad  just  north  of  the  I^ackawanna  Rail- 
road crossing. 

The  old  domain  of  Samuel  Atkins  is  now  a  desolate 
and  neglected  niin.  Where  once  were  fields  of  golden 
grain,  orchards  and  gardens  of  luxuriant  production, 
is  now  covered  with  a  riotous  growth  of  weed,  brier 
and  thistle.  The  engines  of  two  railroads  toot  and 
hoot  over  the  waste,  consonant  with  its  presentment, 
an  owl's  abiding-place. 

For  several  years  past  this  realty  has  been  the  sub- 
ject of  continued  and  costly  litigation.  When  a  young 
man,  it  was  to  the  writer  a  barren  inheritance,  and 
ever  since  a  plague  spot  in  mer^ory. 

On  this  property,  in  1807,  Mr.  Atkins  erected  a 
majestic  structure  of  logs,  consisting  of  three  separate 
buildings,  made  so  by  two  dividing  passages  through 
the  lower  story,  while  the  upper  story  and  roof  re- 
mained intact.  The  building  entire  was  eighteen  by 
eighty  feet  on  the  ground,  with  sides  thirteen  feet  high 
— quite  an  imposing  frontier  establishment.     Here  Mr. 


'^^^^^^^.^'-ami^MJit^msiSm:-  .!S!;f^^'&^%wsi-'tt;;:ri^^r^r> 


IfS^ 


68 


MODERN     ANTlgUITIES. 


Atkins  kept  a  tavern,  a  house  of  entertainment  for 
travelers  and  pilgrims  journeying  to  the  new  West. 
Many  veterans  of  the  war  of  the  Revolution  had  set- 
tled on  the  Niagara  frontier,  and  the  old  log  tavern 
was  their   headquarters — was  where  they   held   their 


t% 


ill 


&*v^ 

House   OP  i 

MNA   ATKIN& 

camp-fires  and  fought  their  battles  anew.  To  a  man 
they  sustained  the  policy  of  President  Madison  to 
maintain  the  majesty  of  the  starry  flag  on  the  high 
seas.  In  })ossession  of  the  writer  is  a  printed  poster, 
dated  April  16,  1811,  calling  a  meeting  for  such  pur- 
pose at  the  old  tavern.  The  time-bleached  paper  and 
quaint  type  characterizes  it  a  veritable  spirit  of  liberty 
and  independence. 


^MT/i.:  ^iii  *iii^-*«»».  ",i- 


'  r»:tP^i£~.-.4**r:'>-^^i.:'<wvt.v.«u*  )i»fiiumim'!eS0i>im5i^Mmi^i^^ 


BUFFALO    I'LAINS. 


59 


iment  for 
lew  West. 
I  had  set- 
og  tavern 
lield   their 


% 


% 


To  a  man 
Madison  to 
n  the  high 
ited  poster, 
r  such  pur- 
l  paper  and 
it  of  liberty 


The  ohl  tavern  was  the  refuge  of  many  fleeing 
families  from  toreh  and  tomahawk  on  that  fatal  day 
and  night  of  1813,  from  burning  Buffalo.  The 
house  survived  until  1823,  when  it  was  replaced 
by  the  large  frame  structure  long  known  as  the 
"  Old  Homestead." 

The  house  erected  by  Mr.  Atkins  in  1806  was  sub- 
sequently the  district  school-house,  in  which,  during 
the  decade  of  the  thirties,  the  writer  attended  school. 
His  education  was  there  hastened  to  completion  by  the 
pungent  rawhide,  wielded  by  the  strong  arms  of  sun- 
dry esteemed  i>edagogue8,  the  most  severe  of  whom 
p'   ed  as  an  orthodox  Christian.     But  he  died  one  day, 

id  the  conviction  that  he  was  thereafter  kept  warm 
amidst  the  glare  of  the  Calvinistic  process,  gave  con- 
solation to  his  victims.  Woodward !  thou  are  not  lost 
to  memory  dear — thy  fame  is  here  perpetuated.  The 
site  of  the  old  school-house  is  now  buried  beneath  the 
embankment  of  the  D.,  L.  &  W.  Railroad  at  its  Main 
street  crossing. 

Of  the  original  settlers  of  Buffalo  Plains,  first  and 
second  generations  alike  have  vanished — 

"  Oono  like  tenants  who  quit  without  warning, 
Down  the  back  entry  of  time." 

With  two  exceptions  all  the  old  buildings  erected 
by  the  pioneers  of  Buffalo  Plains  have  disappeared. 
The  residence  of  Zachary  Griffin,  erected  in  1809,  and 
a  house  erected  in  1817  by  Anna  Atkins,  widow  of 


m^tiei'^lki^iM^- 


tnff 


60 


MODERN     ANTIQUITIES. 


I 


«  Si 


'  m 


Samuel,  are  atill  in  evidence  just  east  of  the  Belt  Line 
crossing.  Ephraini  Brown  was  the  eldest  of  these  old 
settlers,  reaching  the  age  of  eighty  years  at  his  death 
sixty  years  ago.  The  old  war-worn  veteran  with  cane 
in  hand  would  limp  among  the  school  children,  who 
would  flock  around  to  hear  him  recite  the  story  of  his 
battles,  and  to  hear  him  chant  the  army  rhymes  of  the 
good  old  Colony  times.  The  old  man  was  stalwart  of 
frame,  but  quite  lame,  the  effect  of  a  musket  ball 
penetrating  his  knee  at  the  battle  of  Trenton.  With 
children  grouped  around  him  "  Old  Mr.  Brown  "  would 
sing  thus : 

A  haughty  ship  o'er  the  ocean  caiue, 
All  loaded  deep  with  fire  and  Hame, 
And  other  things  I  need  not  name, 
To  have  a  "dash  at  Stonington." 

The  old  razee,  with  hot  ball, 
Did  make  a  farmer's  barrack  fall, 
And  a  codfish  Heet  did  sadly  maul. 
About  one  mile  from  Stonington. 

Now  some  assert  on  certain  grounds, 
Beside  the  damage  and  the  wounds. 
It  cost  King  Oeorge  ten  thousand  [munds 
To  have  a  "dash  at  Stonington." 

Buffalo  Plains  has  a  war  record.  In  the  fall  of 
1812  the  Army  of  the  Frontier  went  into  winter  quar- 
ters on  Flint  Hill.  The  camp  extended  on  Main  street 
from  the  present  Humboldt  parkway  northerly  to  the 


;  i(tJWK%*3V,:^eifi'i'' 


.,^.:.i:  .»%sjfey,^--"*-' 


Belt  Line 
I  these  old 
;  his  death 

with  cane 
Idren,  who 
tory  of  his 
mes  of  the 
stalwart  of 
luskct  ball 
on.  With 
wn  "  would 


unds 

the  fall  of 
winter  quar- 

Main  street 
therly  to  the 


""rrr 


wjtpv   ..»■«  i|ii»  III 


wm 


02 


MODERN     ANTlgUITlES. 


laiulrt  of  Dr.  Daniel  ('hapiii,  now  tlie  Jewett  prop- 
erty, and  westerly  to  the  head  of  Park  Lake,  on  lands 
belonging  to  Kraatiis  Granger,  then  Collector  of  Cus- 
toms and  Postmaster  of  Buffalo.  On  the  Main  street 
front  of  this  old  camp-ground  stand  several  venerable 
oaks,  relicts  of  the  old  camp.  The  one  directly  opjM)- 
site  the  Deaf  and  Dumb  Asylum  is  distinguished  as 
the  one  under  which  a  row  '»f  soldiers  kneeled  when 
shot  for  desertion  in  the  spring  of  1813.  The  vener- 
able oaks  are  still  vigorous,  but  their  lives  are  in  dan- 
ger. The  land  boomer  and  builder  covet  the  space 
they  occupy  and  they  may  soon  disappear  from  view. 
Boomer,  spare  those  trees,  let  the  old  oaks  stand  I 


l>^«r./iH'■««•A'<J^<nU^ljMB/>««^'^i-'»*tM 


wett  prop- 
e,  on  lands 
;or  of  dis- 
dain street 
1  venerablo 
ectly  oppo- 
iguished  m 
eeled  when 
The  vener- 
are  in  dan- 
the  space 
from  view, 
stand  I 


THK    UKEAT     LAKK8. 


chaptp:r  VII. 


03 


At  the  advent  of  the  steamboat  in  1818,  Lake  F^rie 

was  navigated  by  a  Heet  of  small  sail  craft,  fully  ade- 

(juate  for  the  comniert'e  tho.i  existing  between  points 

on  the  lake.     An  early  enrollment  nwls : 

Sfh.  Krperiment,  30  tons.  Samuel  Wilkeson  an<l  James  Hale, 
owners.     Samuel  Wilkeson,  master. 

Captain  Wilkeson  lost  his  nautical  title  when  Judge 

on   tlic  b'incli,  and  Mayor  of    Buffalo.     A  clearance 

dated  November,  1819,  reads : 

Cleared,  Sell.  Nautilus,  26  tons,  Atkins,  master,  for  Cleveland 
and  Sandusky,  with  {)assengers  and  houaelioUl  giMxIs. 

Eager  to  emigrate  to  the  new  West  in  1819,  families 
would  pack  themselves  with  their  goods  on  board  a 
diminutive  sail  craft,  and  brave  the  perils  of  turbulent 
Lake  Erie  in  the  tempestuous  month  of  November. 
Yet  there  are  people  who  discount  the  valor  of  our 
forefathers. 

Guy  J.  Atkins,  master  of  tUe  Nautilus^  was  a  val- 
iant defender  of  Buffalo  and  the  front!'  '■  during  the 
war  of  1812,  an  associate  of  Dr.  Cyrenius  Chapin  in 
his  several  raids  for  reprisals  during  the  conflict. 

The  sailing  fleet  tributary  to  Buffalo  when  assmning 
the  dignity  of  a   city,   comprised   about  fifty   small 


m 


;-^-.nfT-ji'.vjiF[7,-., 


SSS^J'^ 


Iff 


64 


MODKKN     ANTigUITIER. 


w 


stli(M)nt'iH  uikI  hIuojw,  thrt'o  or  four  of  which  had 
MiuelU'd  powih-r  in  tin-  hiittle  of  Luke  Krio.  Notably 
among  tlu-ni  w«h  the  whooner  Qmcu  Charlotte,  a  200- 
ton  vessel.  Having  been  naturalized  amid  the  roar  of 
artillery,  she  sailed  the  lake  a  merchantman  Hcveral 
years  thereafter.  I*rit)r  to  183(5  she  was  under  the 
conunand  of  C-apt.  Lester  IL  Cotton,  a  life  resident  of 
Buffalo— one  of  the  "  old  folks." 

The  Hrst  sail-vessel  to  clear  from  Buffalo,  bound  for 
Chicago,  was  the  brig  I/liuoii*,  Capt.  .Janu's  Sho«)k,  in 
1834.  An  historic  vessel  was  the  schooner  Jo/in 
Kinmv,  a\w  bringing  the  first  cargo  of  wheat  to  Buf- 
falo out  of  Lake  Michigan,  3,000  bushels  from  (Irand 
Hiver.  Regular  shii)ments  of  grain  from  Lake  Michi- 
gan connnenced  in  1840.  That  year  Chicago  shipped 
10,000  bushels  of  wheat  to  Buffalo.  In  183(5  the 
lakes  were  sailed  by  two  full-rigged  ships,  the  Julia 
I'lilmcr,  Capt.  Kobt.  Wagstaff,  and  the  Milwaukiv, 
Cai)t.  William  Dickson.  Captains  Wagstaff  and 
Dickson  were  old  Ncptunes  of  the  lakes,  and  long  resi- 
dents of  Buffalo.  The  old  homestead  of  Captain 
Dickson  is  still  in  existence  on  Barker  street,  but  not 
as  secluded  as  when  t)ccupied  by  him  fifty  years  ago. 

Notably  among  the  vessels  that  were  in  commission 
on  the  lakes  in  1840,  were  three  brigs,  the  I/linois, 
Capt.  James  Shook,  North  Carolina,  Capt.  Gus.  Mc- 
Kinstry,  and  Indiana,  Capt.  Aaron  Root.  Asaph  S. 
Bemis  was  then  mate  of  the  Indiana.  These  men 
were   web-footed,   and  sailed   the   Great  Lakes    with 


^.•-.'-•An**i;->.>ii'i«^'. 


,=.■)■  >vi;^^'*4fc%'^J8#.''«' 


which  had 
.  Notably 
otte,  a  200- 
the  roar  of 
»an  several 
Hiuler  the 
resitlent  of 

,  bouiul  for 
•H  Shook,  in 
loner  Jo/i  n 
leat  to  Huf- 
from  (iraiul 
iake  Miehi- 
ftgo  shipped 
1  183(5  the 
<,  the  Julia 
3/ilwaiikie, 
igHtatt"  and 
id  long  resi- 
of  Captain 
■eet,  but  not 
pars  ago. 

eonuuission 
;he  Illinois, 
)t.  Gus.  Mc- 
.     Asaph  S. 

These  men 
Lakes    with 


WWr(.'A^<iSfcrtf.~ 


if 


3*  I  '■ 


III 


66  MODEKN     ANTIQUITIES. 

audacity  and  impunity.  Many  acquaintances  of  A.  S. 
Beinis  in  his  later  life  were  not  aware  of  the  fact  that 
he  was  an  experienced  navigator.  He  had  many  com- 
mands, his  last  l)eing  the  steamboat  Star,  in  1841-42. 
Private  interests  caused  his  retirement  from  a  profes- 
sion he  loved  and  honored. 

The  sailing  fleet  of  1835-36  included  the  following 
vessels  and  masters : 

lUUGS.  CAPTAINS. 

Illinois, Uobert  Wagstaff. 

Indiana Augustus  McKinstry. 

North  Carolina Aaron  Root. 

SCHOONERS.  CAPTAINS. 

Nucleus Thomas  P.  Folger. 

President Benjamin  Sweet. 

Globe Zeph  Perkins. 

Hercules Benjamin  Boomer. 

Michigan William  Dickson. 

Telegraph, Peter  Smith. 

Bolivar C.  H.  Ludlow. 

Queen  Charlotte,  .     .  .  L.  H.  Cotton. 

Buffalo Robert  Hart. 

Henry  Norton,      ....  Jerry  Oliver. 

Warren, George  Montieth. 

Nancy  Dousman James  Shook. 

Marie  Antoinette,      .      .      .  Edward  Macy. 

Panama Richard  Meeks. 

Thomas  Hart Thomas  Melville. 

Daniel  Webster,   ...      .  J.  D.  Moon. 

John  Grant John  Nelson. 

Florida, N.  K.  Randall. 

You»g  Amaranth,      ...  J.  W.  Ransom. 


If 


r^F^iViiVi.^i'! 


.\r»fcS¥*S^iS^iasS».:.-.1Sfe»©l«i«»»»*»^S!«si^»^^ 


-frr  • 


THE    GREAT    LAKES. 


67 


}'i 


es  of  A.  S. 
le  fact  that 
many  com- 
n  1841-42. 
m  a  profes- 

le  following 


ff. 
instry. 


ger. 

St. 

aer. 
ion. 


etb. 


s. 
iUe. 


SCHOONERS 

Alabama,    . 
Commerce, 
Hiram,  . 
John  Adams, 
Ciucinnati, 
Post  Boy,    . 
John  Richards 
L.  Jenkins, 
Ware,    .      . 
Comet,  . 
Benjamin  Rusk, 
Marshal  Ney, 
lia  Porte,    . 
Constitution, 
Columbus, 
Dewitt  Clinton, 
Agnes  Barton, 
Ben  Franklin, 
United  States, 
Eclipse, 
Wyandotte, 
Alert,     . 
Farmer, 
Navigator, 
Enterprise, 
John  C.  Spencer, 
Lewis  Qoler,    . 
Thomas  Hart, 
Col.  Crockett, 
Philipps,    . 
New  Connecticut, 
Duke  of  Wellington, 


CAPTAINS. 

Abner  Smith. 
Reuben  Smith. 
Ezra  Hathbun. 
J.  A,  Barker. 
William  Dorrit. 
Morgan  Edgecomb. 
R.  Ferguson. 
Daniel  Fuller. 
John  Oarnsey. 
Seth  Oreen. 
Augustus  Todd. 
Lyman  Harvey. 
Benjamin  Owen. 

A.  H.  Squier. 
David  Clark. 
William  Christian. 
J.  G.  Ludlow. 
Samuel  Blackley. 
Edward  Burke. 
John  Berg. 

B.  Black. 
Walter  Atwell. 
Hugh  Soper. 
James  Thorpe. 
W.  S.  Thorpe. 
Stephen  Walker. 
John  Warren. 
David  White. 
John  Whitney. 
Charles  Howe. 
William  Kennedy. 
John  Medlar. 


After  the  loss  of  the  original  boat,  and  during  the 
village  era,  eleven  steamboats  were  constructed  for  the 


jWuiWiStsft^**^*- 


-:*WSEfe«;*H 


'^mMSgOiiM^ii-eSSS^mWi^j  M^am  '> 


paami 


ill 


a    ! ;!  i' 


IIP 


eg  MOT)ERN     ANTIQUITIES. 

navigation  of  the  lake,  ten  of  which  were  in  commis- 
sion when  the  city  was  inaugurated.  Appended  are 
their  names,  and  the  names  of  their  commanders : 

STEAMBOATS.  CAPTAINS. 

Superior William  T.  Pease. 

Niagara.  No.  1 C'barles  C.  Stanard. 

Henry  Clay Walter  Norton. 

Sheldon  Thompson,  .     .     .  Augustus  Walker. 

William  Penn David  Wight. 

William  Peacock,      .     .     •  Thomas  Wilkins. 

Pioneer Charles  Burnett. 

Ohio Morris  Tyler. 

Enterprise George  Niles. 

Caroline James  Pettey. 

The   Peacock   made  tri-weekly  trips  to  Conueaut, 
calling  at  Erie,  Dunkirk  and  Barcelona.     The  Caro- 
line ran  Niagara  River  to  Chippewa  and  Schlosser  dock. 
The  remainder  ran  to  Sandusky  and  Detroit.     At  first 
some  one  of  the  boats  would  extend  one  trip  to  Mack- 
inaw   and    Green    Bay  each   season.     In    1834   the 
Pioneer  was  wrecked  on  Lake  Michigan  when  on  such 
a  trip.     The  Michiqan  came  out  during  the  summer  of 
1832,  commanded     y  Capt.  Chesley  Blake.     Her  first 
service  was  a  trip  to  Green  T'^y,  conveying  General 
Scott,  with  a  body  of  troops,  U     service  in  the  Black 
Hawk  War.      During  the  passage  cholera  broke  out 
on  board,  causing  many  deaths,  principally  among  the 

troops. 

At  this   period   there   were  four   Canadian  steam- 
boats in  commission,  mostly  confined  to  home  waters, 


-.lif^ 


'^-'4-«««S*w..  a?>^«S^ 


n  commis- 
«nded  are 
kders : 


se. 
a,rd. 


Conneaut, 
The  Caro- 
losser  dock. 
t.     At  first 
p  to  Mack- 
1834   the 
hen  on  such 
!  summer  of 
Her  first 
ing  General 
a  the  Black 
\  broke  out 
^  among  the 

^ian  steam- 
lome  waters, 


IHii 


m 


•ws-m  w<.s',*S]r'  m^^^s^^m^mm^SA'^i^Amm^^kkmkim^fm^sm^ — wfe* 


m 


i 


70 


MODERN     ANTIQUITIES. 


one  of  which,   the   Thames,  commanded   by  Captain 
Van  Allen,  carried  on  trade  with  Buffalo.     Mr.    Van 
Allen,  subsequently,   was   proprietor  of    the  Claren- 
don Hotel  in  Buffalo.     Excepting  the  William  Penn, 
ownetl  by    Kufus    Reed,   of    Erie,   all   the  American 
fleet    were    controlled    at    Buffalo,    and    their    crews 
resided  there.     Such  was  the  steam  fleet  of  Lake  Erie 
sixty-six  years  ago.     Their  combined  tonnage  was  less 
than  2,000  tons.    Recently  a  lake  steamer  was  launched 
from  a  Buffalo  ship-yard,  not  of  the  larger  class,  yet 
double  the  tonnage  of  the  ten  pioneer  boats  combined. 
The  first  steamboat  to  run  the  Niagara  in  regular 
route,  was  the  Caroline,  brought  from  Albany  through 
the  canal  for  the  purpose,  by  shipping  her  guards.     In 
1834  the  Victory,  eighty-seven  tons,  was  built  for  the 
river   route.      She  was   commanded   by   Capt.    John 
Hebard.     In  1840  Capt.  C.  L.  Gager  built  the  Eed 
Jacket  for  the  route,  but  she  was  soon  taken  to  the 
St.  Clair  River.     Then  on  the  river  appeared  in  turn 
the  Sun,  Star  and  Waterloo,  and  finally  the  Emerald, 
a  Canadian  vessel,  which  plied  the  river  for  a  number 
of  years.     After  the    Emerald  came  the   Ai'roio,   a 
good  boat,  and  after  her  the  Clifton,  the  best  of  all. 
But  the  railroad  to  the  Falls  forced  them  to  seek  traffic 
on  the  upper  rivers. 

Apparently  the  founding  of  a  city  on  the  shore  o* 
Lake  Erie  in  1832,  was  an  incentive  to  ship-building, 
as  the  next  year  twelve  new  steamboats  were  added  to 
the  fleet.     Seven  others  came  in  1834,  and  a  like  num- 


*^«t*stsa-ss>afcs»'>*«'^'- 


THE    GREAT    LAKES. 


71 


Captain 
Mr.  Van 
le  Claren- 
xm  Penn, 
American 
eir  crews 
Lake  Erie 
;e  was  less 
}  launched 

class,  yet 
combined, 
in  regular 
ly  through 
lards.  In 
ilt  for  the 
apt.  John 
S  the  Hfid 
cen  to  the 
k1  in  turn 

Emerald, 
'  a  number 
Ai'row,  a 
best  of  all. 
seek  traffic 

le  shore  of 
p-building, 
:e  added  to 
I  like  num- 


ber in  1835.  With  one  exception  the  new  boats  were 
a  slight  improvement  upon  the  old  fleet.  The  excep- 
tion was  the  Washington,  built  in  1833,  the  largest 
and  best  found  boat  so  far  appearing  on  the  lake.  But 
her  cai'eer  was  limited  to  three  trips.     Encountering  a 


The  Thomas  Jefpekson — 1834. 

violent  tempest  on  her  third  passage  up  the  lake,  she  was 
wrecked  on  Long  Point,  a  total  loss.  Then  another 
steamboat  appeared  named  the  Washington,  which 
was  soon  after  burned  on  the  lake,  and  since  then  the 
name  Washington,  for  a  lake  vessel,  has  been  neglected 
by  ship-owners.  Later  there  was  a  lake  boat  named 
Lady  Washington,  which  escaped  serious  disaster. 


i« 


1" 


mi 


72 


MODERN     ANTIQUITIES. 


In  Black  Rock  harbor,  a  short  distance  above  the 
ship-lock,  wlien  the  wa^-^r  is  clear,  may  be  seen  on  the 
bottom  the  wrecks  of  the  early  steamboats  Henri/ 
Clay,  North  America  and  Daniel  Webster,  there 
moored  as  cast-aways,  in  1842,  to  relieve  crowded  Buf- 
falo Creek.  These  boats  were  not  over-aged  when 
retired,  but  their  primitive  construction  rendered  them 
useless  to  compete  with  the  more  modern  boats  then  in 
commission. 

The  following  named  steamboats  were  navigating 
the  lakes  in  1835-36  : 


>TKAMHOAT8. 

Michigan,    . 
Tliomas  Jefferson, 
Sandusky,  .     .     . 
Daniel  Webster,   . 
Oeneral  Porter,    . 
United  States, 
Charles  Townsend, 
Pennsylvania, 
Monroe, 

Commodore  Perry, 
Oliver  Newberry, 
William  Penn, 
William  Peacock, 
North  America, 
Ohio,      .      . 
Detroit, 
Delaware,   . 
Victory, 
Caroline,     . 
Governor  Marcy, 
Oswego, 


CAITAIN8. 

Chesley  Blake. 
Thomas  Wilkins. 
1 .  J.  Titus. 
Mon  ;8  Tyler. 
Walter  Norton. 
A.  E.  Hart. 
Simeon  Fox. 
Levi  Allen. 
Harry  Whittaker. 
David  Wilkinson. 
A.  Edwards. 
David  Wright. 
E.  W.  Pratt. 
Oilman  Appleby. 
Charles  Burnett. 
R.  Gillett. 
Captain  Cobb. 
John  Hebard. 
James  Pettey. 
Samuel  Chase. 
James  Honiaus. 


'SE?s^S!is»Si^ShSHs-«"''i-.i.Sia*fesfeasJS^ 


■'""jW'l 


THE    OKEAT    LAKES. 


73 


above  the 
sen  on  the 
its  Henry 
i<er,  there 
wded  Buf- 
iged  when 
lered  them 
ats  then  in 

navigating 


As  a  class  the  lake  navigators  of  the  i)eriod  were 
men  of  striking  individuality.  Dobbins,  Pease,  Stan- 
ard,  Norton,  Allen,  Blake,  Wilkeson,  Burnett,  Cham- 
berlain, Lundy,  Cotton,  Wilkins,  Wilkinson,  Titus, 
Shainholdts,  Walker,  Ludlow,  Goldsmith,  Brundage, 
Fox,  Folger,  Pratt,  Hart,  Floyd,  Squier,  Kaudall, 
Whittaker,  Wagstaff,  Dickson,  Caverly,  Hinton,  Wil- 
son, Shook,  Hazard,  Nickerson,  Stewart,  Sweet,  Per- 
kins, Pheatt,  Traverse,  Bemis,  Peter  Smith,  McBride, 
Averill,  Gager,  Appleby,  Webster,  Dorr,  Wheeler, 
Atwood,  Vary,  Stone,  Snow,  Arthur,  Watts,  Hatha- 
way, Huff,  Howland,  and  others  of  like  caliber,  v;ere  a 
class  who,  seemingly,  arose  for  the  requirements  of  the 
time ;  bold  and  intrepid  navigators,  marking  their 
courses  without  artificial  aid — no  charts,  no  buoys  nor 
harbors  of  refuge,  a  paucity  of  lights,  no  guides  other 
than  the  compass,  the  eye,  the  watch  and  the  lead,  the 
lakes  not  being  navigated  at  that  time  by  governmental 
appliances. 

During  this  era  of  flush  steam-boating  there  was  a 
world  of  emigration  to  the  West — to  Michigan,  Wis- 
consin Indiana  and  Illinois,  mostly  from  the  farming 
communities  of  the  Eastern  States  and  the  State  of 
New  York.  The  wharves  at  Buffalo,  from  the  opening 
to  the  close  of  navigation,  were  crowded  with  these 
people,  packing  their  household  goods,  farm  imple- 
ments, farm  animals  and  themselves  on  board  steam- 
boats, bound  for  new  homes  in  the  productive  West. 
Such  congregations  of  people  caused  Buffalo  to  be  the 


-  .'S^^S4SS5WJS^.'5?f^^£2S»^t3iSSJr.jiC^ 


-^>»?'5.«- 


74 


MODERN     ANTIQUITIES. 


Mecca  for  hordes  of  snitle  operators,  fakirs,  nostrum 
venders,  the  pestiferous  watch-stuffer,  and  other  birds 
of  prey,  wlio  flocked  there  to  impose  on  the  simplicity 
of  the  crednhnis  emigrants.  Notwithstanding  that 
steamboat  officers  and  others  were  diligent  in  warning 
unsuspecting  strangers  to  beware  of  these  inhuman 
sharks,  they  found  victims  in  abundance. 

Then  the  era  of  illustrious  steam-boating  (»n  Lake 
Erie  was  at  its  zenith.  A  fleet  of  magnificent  passen- 
ger boats,  luxurious  in  apiK>intments,  officered  by 
skilled  navigators,  picituresque  in  ruftled  linen  and 
affability,  no  dearth  of  patronage,  a  world  of  travel, 
fair  women  and  brave  men,  bands  of  music  galore — 
hurrah,  boys !  from  the  commencement  to  the  close  of 
each  season,  until  that  autocrat  of  the  rail — the  loco- 
motive—relegated the  passenger  steamer  to  inactivity 
during  the  decade  of  the  fifties. 

The  steamboat  officers  were  active  in  prosecuting 
the  boom,  all  partaking  of  the  spirit  of  the  times. 
Among  those  resident  at  Buffalo  were  the  following 
captains : 


Ij.  H.  Cotton, 
Levi  Allen, 
T.  J.  Titus, 
C.  H.  Ludlow, 
John  Hebai'd, 
W.  T.  Pease, 
A.  S.  Bemis, 
John  Shook, 
Augustus  Walker, 


Henry  Kandall, 
Harry  WLittaker, 
(Jilman  Appleby, 
Morris  Hazard, 


C.  M.  Avcrill, 
(George  Willoughby, 
C.  E.  Roby. 
Charles  Brundage, 


Luther  Chamberlain,  Ira  Davis, 
C.  C.  Stanard,  H.  Van  Allen, 

Simeon  Fox,  F.  N.  Jones, 

A.  H.  Squier,  A.  D.  Perkins, 

Heber  Squier,  F.  8.  Wheeler, 


•mfmm^iiee<'ss^^'Sfff-u  &s 


1 


8,  nostrum 
other  birds 
I  simplicity 
iding  that 
in  warning 
e  inhuman 

V  on  Lake 
ent  passen- 
RRcered  by 
linen  and 
[  of  travel, 
ic  galore — 
he  close  of 
— the  loco- 
i  inactivity 

prosecuting 

the  times. 

e  following 


rcrill, 

kVillougbby, 
.by. 
Brundage, 

B, 

Allen, 
nes, 
;rkins, 
heeler, 


,.;^^w**»* 


i-f  ^iaiS&»'iSji'StUft«,  Js^J-WS  ''>5B«S^3&><S^>fcsiiv«««iS^^it<i6fra»^afe 


'i 


76 

Bmijaiiiin  Stanard, 
JaiDMS  N.  Luiitiy, 
UeorKi-  VV.  Floyd, 
Cbarh's  Hiirnett, 
A.  E.  Hart, 
Archibald  Allen, 
Itobert  VVagstaff, 
Walter  Norton, 


MODERN     ANTIQUITIES. 


James  Slun.n, 
Bannud  Vary, 
Peter  SliainlioldtM, 
ThuniBH  P.  Folffor, 
A)no8  Pratt, 
A.  T.  Kinsman, 
William  ('averly, 
Clinton  (ioldsniith, 


William  Davenport, 
F.  S.  Miller, 
Captain  HoberlHon, 
W.  P.  Stone, 
C.  li.  (iager, 
J.  L.  Edmunds, 
(^aptain  Pierce, 
Jacob  Imeon. 


Among  the  resident  steamboat  engineers  were  the 
following : 

Aiistlii  Hipb  y,  fVank  Peugeot, 


Albert  Harris, 
Alfred  Harris, 
John  Leonard, 
ClmrleH  Hadcliff, 


All!  ar  Johnson, 
Gardner  Williants, 
Asa  Wuitti'uiore, 


Of  the  pursers  were : 
M.  W.  Dayton,  O.  H.  P.  Cbamplin, 


Ralph  Courier, 
John  J.  IloUister, 


C.  B.  Rio , 
Joseph  Barton, 


\Mlliam  McUeo, 
James  'Aeiiee. 


Charles  Addington, 
Peter  Hoyt, 
Edward  Hallenbeck. 


The  most  active  officers  of  the  boats  were  the  stew- 
ards, among  whom  were  many  residents  of  Buffalo : 


W.  U.  Corbett, 
John  Fleming, 
Frank  Jackson, 
Jacob  Bellinger, 
Charles  Bay  lis, 
Bartley  Logan, 


James  Delano, 
Patrick  Healey, 
A.  B.  Catlin, 
Harrison  Chase, 
(k'orge  Aycrs, 
Jerome  Chase, 


T.  T.  Blo«)mer, 
George  Gillispie, 
George  Blauchard, 
E   K.  Bruce, 
B.  F.  Bruce, 
J.  Bunker. 


All  whose  names  are  here  recorded  were  well  known 
in  Buffalo,  and  who,  with  but  few  xeeptions,  have 
passed  away.  Captain  Imson  and  Mr.  Champlin  still 
remain,  old  and  venerated  citizens  of  Buffalo. 


-ifisil 


;y'*'!«a-*iari"i»i--.'.--. 


!4)«M;#StiiiiJfe6*K;a>/ii(^j«ii 


naveniM>rt, 

ler, 

^obtirlHon, 

one, 

?«r, 

iiiinds, 

Pierce, 

ison. 

8  were  the 


uugeot, 
McUeo, 
[c<*ee. 


AdiliDgton, 
[jyt, 
Hallenbec.k. 

re  the  stew- 
Buffalo  : 

loomer, 

Oillispiu, 

BlaucLard, 

Jruce, 

ruce, 

well  known 
ptions,  have 
lamplin  still 
:alo. 


THE    ^ilil.AT    LAKEH. 


77 


At  this  |)»'rio<l  winti'r'was  the  dull  seaHon  in  Buffalo, 
With  the  cloflo  of  navigation,  travel  other  than  by 
stage  lines  was  suspemknl.  With  resident  lake  navi- 
gators it  was  a  season  of  social  fiijoynient,  and  with 
theii  round  of  pleasures,  sleigliing  and  dancing,  they 
made  things  lively.  Their  motto  was  "  Melancholy 
must  go."     With  them  it  wiw: 

"  To  some  ball,  to  some  play, 
\^'ith  some  jmrty  every  day, 
brinkiii^  wine  with 
Some  ^:entloinen  or  other." 

Of  this  fii^tive  squadron  Capt.  Fred  Wheeler  was 
the  admiral.  His  associates  were  kept  on  the  alert 
lest  they  became  victims  of  his  jokes  and  surprises. 

On  the  8outhea.st  corner  of  Main  and  Swan  streets 
was  Deacon  Stocking's  hat  and  fur  store.  Next  below 
was  the  ribbon  and  bonnet  store  of  John  F.  Williams, 
usually  called  "  Bonnet  Williams,"  and  by  Captain 
Wheeler,  "  The  He  Milliner  " — a  man  noted  for  his 
quiet  humor,  and  for  his  close  friendship  with  Capt. 
Fred.  Wheeler. 

It  was  a  sunny  morning  in  the  month  of  April,  when 
Captain  Wheeler,  awaiting  the  opening  of  navigation, 
came  strolling  up  the  street.  Williams  was  having  his 
store  cellar  renovated.  The  refuse  was  thrown  up  on 
*  he  sidewalk.  Capt.  Whe«ler  protested  to  having  the 
walk  HO  obstructed.  Williams  replied  that  the  wheel- 
barrow and  shovel  there  standing  wan  awaiting  a  man 
out  of  a  job,  and  advisecl  the  Captain  of  his  oppor- 


■3^ffi«R^»?^iKiS5fetSS 


■^mMMiiihX!MSis:-sr 


||  HM 


78 


M(»I)KUN     ANTlgiMTIKH. 


tunity  <<>  work  and  earn  HoiiicthiiiK,  oftVrin^  liiiii  t»'H 
ct'iitH  for  eai'li  load  of  dii-t  tliat  In*  would  wlu'ul  and 
dump  in  tin*  roar.  TIiIh  ])ro|Hmition  Captain  Wheeler 
accepted,  and  at  once  plied  the  hIiovcI  in  loading  the 
harrow.  V\  hen  returning  from  the  <lump,  he  took 
fright  at  a  huffahKskiri  which  Deacon  Stocking  was 
diHplaying  on  his  awning  frame  and  ran  away  with  the 
wheel-ltarrow.  Starting  rapidly,  he  carronied  on  a 
gaily-drcHrtcd  dunuuy  standing  at  the  front  of  Wil- 
liams's store,  capsizing  and  decapitating  the  fair  one. 
Wildly  on  he  ran,  down  the  street,  into  the  Terrace, 
where,  in  collision  with  the  Liberty  Pole,  the  wheel- 
barrow was  shattered  into  nniny  parts  and  the  runaway 
captured  by  Asa  I).  Wood  and  A.  .1.  Tiffany,  who  led 
him  into  the  Mansion  House,  where  in  time  he  became 
(piieted.  No  lives  lost;  damage,  about  twenty  dollars. 
Once  upon  a  time  a  dance-house  flourished  on  the 
Lower  Terrace,  facing  the  canal.  The  upper  story  of 
the  structure  was  even  with  tlie  groun<l  at  its  rear, 
where  there  was  a  lone  window.  Capt.  Fred  Wheeler, 
with  companions,  were  ])asHing  by  one  evening,  when 
they  observed  through  the  rear  window  a  party  of 
dancers  ski])ping  the  light  fantastic  in  high  glee.  On 
the  ground  near  by  lay  an  unmounted  grindstone,  some 
four  feet  in  diameter.  The  grindstone  was  raised  and 
taken  to  the  bank  in  the  rear  of  the  dance-house,  to 
which  the  down  grade  was  about  forty  degrees.  When 
the  stone  was  started  it  rolled  accurately,  passing 
through  the  window  and  speeding  on  through  the  maze 


•»-.  .::Jf.k>^i*.-^\.:Ai'»*u»'^^'(^ir-i,mmmS,at^yM**i^^ 


njj  him  ten 
I  wlu'L'l  nnd 
iiii  Whet'ler 

loading  the 
up,  he  took 
toeking  wum 
vay  with  tlie 
i-onted  on  a 
ant  of  Wil- 
the  fair  one. 
the  Terrace, 
3,  the  wheel- 

the  ninaway 
•any,  who  led 
lie  lie  beeame 
venty  dollars, 
•ished  on  the 
ijiper  story  of 
1  at   its  rear, 
'red  Wheeler, 
vening,  when 
w  a  party  of 
igh  glee.     On 
ndstone,  some 
vas  raised  and 
ance-house,  to 
sgrees.    When 
ately,  passing 
ough  the  maze 


TIIK    <JKEAT     LAKKH. 


7!» 


of  dancers  and  tliroMj;li  the  front  of  the  Iniihliiig  into 
the  canal,  wiiere.  i)erhapH,  it  remains  imlwdded  in  the 
nuid  Itottoni.  The  consternation  of  the  dancers  at  the 
sudden  invasi<»n  of  the  grindstone  may  be  imagined. 
A  description  woidd  be  diftiodt  to  write  and  dt>  justice 
to  the  subject.  I  have  ever  more  than  suspected  that 
my  old  friend  and  ex- 
Co  n  n  t  y  Treasurer, 
Charles  H.  Durkee, 
was  an  actor  in  that 
conu'dy. 

My  first  steand>oat 
ride  was  in  the  sum- 
mer of  1837.  In  com- 
pany with  ujy  mother 
and  young  sister,  we 
went  to  the  foot  of 
Main  street  and 
l)oarded  the  steam- 
boat William  Penii, 
bound  for  Dunkirk, 
to  visit  relatives. 
Ik'ing  a  youth  of  eleven  years  I  was  in  afHuence  in 
having  in  my  pocket  a  silver  half-<lollar,  pocket  money 
for  the  journey.  To  those  who  first  go  to  sea  in  ships, 
seasickness  is  a  dreaded  anticipation.  Prior  to  the 
departure  of  the  boat  there  appeared  to  the  passengers 
a  long-haired,  lop-eared,  lantern-jawed,  lank  and  limp 
specimen  of  humanity,  soliciting  them  to  purchase  his 


The  William   Penn— 1826. 


■«Kt*&;'i*i-(l&.'.it<*«**,.V''3t**!»fl, 


:"ar 


80 


MODERN     ANTIQUITIES. 


IVi 


panacea  for  seasickness — vials  filled  with  a  pink-colored 
solution  of  aqua,  cinnamon  essence  and  rose-water. 
Through  his  superlative  assurance,  aided  by  simplicity, 
he  caught  me.  O,  he  "  played  it  that  day  upon  me 
in  a  way  I  despise " — relieved  me  of  one-half  of  my 
capital  at  the  outset  of  my  journey.  The  picturesque 
perpetrator  of  the  commodity,  designed  to  cure  all 
diseases  of  mind,  body  and  estate,  could  not  have  per- 
fected it,  for  the  boat  had  not  proceeded  more  than  a 
mile  seaward  from  the  lighthouse,  before  the  dreaded 
malady  had  marked  me  for  its  own. 

The  appropriation  of  a  locomotive,  and  run  off 
successfully,  is  an  event  of  recent  date,  but  the  theft 
of  a  steamboat,  successfully  consummated,  was  an 
enterprise  of  a  former  era.  During  the  latter  thir- 
ties was  built  the  steamboat  Milwaukie,  a  vessel  de- 
signed more  for  speed  than  a  bearer  of  burdens.  In 
1841  she  was  owned  jointly  by  parties  of  Buffalo  and 
Milwaukee,  between  whom  arose  a  legal  controversy 
relative  to  theii;  several  interests  in  the  steamboat. 
When  the  steamer  was  at  the  port  of  Buffalo  she  was 
laid  up  in  ordinary  in  charge  of  a  shipkeeper,  on  the 
principle  that  possession  was  points  in  the  game.  In 
the  meantime  the  Milwaukee  owners  were  reticent 
while  hatching  a  scheme  to  obtain  possession  of  the 
property  in  dispute  by  strategy.  To  manage  the  en- 
terprise they  employed  Capt.  L.  H.  Cotton,  who  organ- 
ized a  trusty  crew  and  rendezvoused  at  Buffalo.  On 
an  August  night  of  1841,  the  boat  was  boarded,  the 


:,^  '-f**'! 


.<.»«».i:^m«i.>:'^;^w^»Wxi!^(^t3«^ 


)ink-colored 
rose-water, 
simplicity, 
y  upon  me 
half  of  my 
picturesque 
to  cure  all 
ot  have  per- 
tnore  than  a 
the  dreaded 

,nd  run  off 
ut  the  theft 
ced,  was   an 

latter  thir- 
a  vessel  de- 
lurdens.  In 
Buffalo  and 

controversy 
3  steamboat, 
ffalo  she  was 
eeper,  on  the 
le  game.  In 
irere  reticent 
!ssion  of  the 
nage  the  en- 
1,  who  organ- 
Buffalo.     On 

boarded,  the 


■'■•"'S«^%||^^,^^gj^fl;v^Jgj^^5Sj-i\;;'S5S«5J-'-'*''-^" 


mm 


!'¥ 


g2  MODERN     ANTIQUITIES. 

shipkeeper  seized,  gagged  and  confined,  steam  raised, 
tlie  moorings  cast  off,  when  the  boat  cautionsly  passed 
out  onto  the  lake,  and  away  she  went,  too  speedy  to  he 
overtaken  by  any  craft  on  the  lakes. 

Buffalo  owners  were  compelled  to  accept  the  situa- 
tion, there  being  no  means  to  head  off  the  fugitive, 
telegraph  poles  not  then  standing  in  line  over  the 
country.  The  following  day  Buffalo  newspapers  an- 
nounced thus : 

Lost  Strayed  ok  STOi.EX-The  low-pressure  steauiboat  Mil- 
wavkie  was  last  seen  before  day-break  this  morning  rounding  the 
lighthouse  and  skipping  over  the  waters  of  Lake  Erie.  A  liberal 
reward  awaits  whoever  effects  her  arrest  before  reaching  Lake 
Michigan. 

Their  Hrst  landing  was  at  Silver  Creek  pier,  where 
they  liberated  their  prisoner,  and  helped  themselves  to 
a  few  cords  of  wood  there  convenient,  and  then  made 
a  straight  wake  to  Put-in-Bay  Island,  where  more  fuel 
was  obtained.  They  then  rapidly  passed  through  the 
rivers  to  Lake  Huron  and  on  to  Milwaukee,  where  she 
was  run  hard  aground  inside  the  mouth  of  the  river, 
there  to  remain  until  sold  to  Oliver  Newberry,  of 
Detroit,  who  placed  her  engine  and  boilers  in  his  new 
steamboat  XUe. 

On  May  12,  1844,  the  steamboat  Rochester  left  the 
foot  of  Main  street,  Buffalo,  bound  for  Chicagr),  offi- 
cered as  follows:  Thomas  P.  Folger,  master;  Harry 
Weishuen,  mate;  William  McGee,  engineer;  O.  H. 
P.  Champlin,  clerk;  Bartley  Logan,  steward. 


./*.'«';*ji:s*'»v. 


,-«;**-•;**(.•  .«>&****!*W*I 


'^$^^m). 


im^t^^" 


THE    GREAT    LAKES. 


83 


jam  raised, 
isly  passed 
)eedy  to  be 

,  the  wtua- 
le  fugitive, 
e  over  the 
ipapers  an- 

teaniboat  Mil- 

rounding  the 

•le.     A  liberal 

■eacbing  Lake 

pier,  where 
iiemselves  to 
I  then  made 
re  more  fuel 
through  the 
e,  where  she 
of  the  river, 
Jewberry,  of 
PS  in  his  new 

'ster  left  the 
Chicago,  offi- 
ister;  Harry 
iieer;  O.  H. 
ird. 


During  his  mechanical  work  engineer  McGee  had 
constructed  a  small  steam-whistle,  patterned  from 
plans  published  in  the  Scientific  American,  which  he 
attached  to  the  boiler  of  the  Rochester,  more  foi-  its 
novelty  than  for  its  utility.  Before  the  boat  left  the 
wharf  the  whistle  was  sounded,  the  first  to  give  voice 
in  the  region  of  the  Great  Lakes.  Prior  to  the  whis- 
tle, loud-sounding  bells  were  hung  above  decks  on  all 
lake  vessels,  which  supplied  the  needs  of  the  present 
steam-whistle. 

During  the  winter  preceding,  Capt.  C.  L.  Gager  had 
made  a  propeller  out  of  the  old  steamboat  General 
Porter.  Between  Gager  and  McGee  rai  old  feud 
existed.  A  few  miles  below  Mackinaw  fJie  Jioche»ter 
overliauled  the  Porter,  and  when  passing  her  McGee 
blew  his  whistle  persistently  and  defiantly.  The  steam- 
boat landed  at  Mackinaw,  as  also  did  the  propeller. 
Being  unaware  that  McGee  was  engineer  of  the  Poch- 
estcr,  (iager  appeared  at  tiie  steamboat  dock  and  loudly 
demanded  to  be  shown  the  man  who  "  squawked  that 
thing  at  him."  McGee  was  prompt  in  leaping  on  the 
wharf  and  shouting,  "Take  a  look  at  me!"  Then 
came  a  resolute  intervention  of  mutual  friends  pre- 
venting war  between  two  stalwart  men.  And  thus 
was  demonstrated  the  utility  of  the  steam-whistle  and 
its  inauguration  on  the  Great  Lakes  without  bloodshed. 
Li  general,  early  lake  steamboats  were  officered  by 
sailors  who  gained  their  experience  on  the  fleet  of  sailing 
vessels  navigating  Lake  Erie  prior  to  the  advent  of  the 


^ 


'i\t,  •'^i.jS^lsisra/^^'rrisw^sSSSjff^SsA-' 


84 


MODERN     ANTIQUITIES. 


steamboat.  A  notable  exception  occurred  at  the  out- 
set, when  Captain  Fish  was  imported  from  the  North 
River  to  command  the  Walk-in-the- Water.  When 
navigating  Lake  Erie,  Captain  Fish  encountered,  to 
him,  a  novel  experience.  During  a  storm  on  the  lake, 
Captain  Fish  became  seasick— utterly  demoralized— 
when  passengers  and  crew  insisted  that  mate  Davis 
should  assume  command  of  the  vessel.  This  being 
done,  the  steaml)oat  was  safely  navigated  through  the 
storm;  and  for  the  remainder  of  the  season  it  was 
Captain  Davis,  while  Captain  Fish  returned  to  swim 
in  the  more  placid  waters  surrounding  Manhattan 
Island.  Thereafter,  as  a  rule,  lake  steamboats  were 
commanded  by  lake  sailors. 

Later,  however,  a  more  flagrant  case  occurred  which 
aroused  the  indignation  of  lake  shipmasters.     About 
184G,  Capt.  Henry  Randall  sold  the  steamboat     Vis- 
cotisL  to  William  Chard,  a  gentleman  largely  engaped 
in  canal  transportation.     Mr.  Chard  was  an  expert  in 
canal   navigation,  but   in   no  sense  a  lake  navigator. 
Mr.  Chard,  firstly,  changed   the  orthography  of   the 
name  of  the  boat  to  Wiskonsan,  and  then,  as  a  busi- 
ness proposition,  assumed  the  command,  and  then  the 
trouble  commenced.      A  "  canaler "  master  of  a  lake 
steamboat,  was  an  absurdity  intolerable,  and  war  was 
declared  against  Mr.  Chard  and  his  steamboat  Wis- 
hmsan.     An  emblematic  war— a  war  of  ridicule  was 
diligently    waged.      In    addition    to   the   blowing   of 
horns  and  shouting  "  low  bridge,"  canal  harness  and 


s-.,s,s>^ai«i»»«>.j-a        -*&■•  u;^iis,.->f.;''.«ASs*Sfe*fe 


THE    GREAT    LAKES. 


85 


,t  the  out- 
the  North 
-.  When 
intered,  to 
I  the  lake, 
loralized — 
late  Davis 
Dhis  being 
irough  the 
son  it  was 
id  to  swim 
Manhattan 
boats  were 

irred  which 
rs.     Abont 
uboat     Vis- 
jly  engaged 
1  expert  in 
I  navigator, 
phy  of   the 
1,  as  a  biisi- 
id  then  the 
r  of  a  lake 
id  war  was 
mboat  Wis- 
ridicule  was 
blowing   of 
harness  and 


whiffletrees  were  run  aloft  on  other  boats  when  meet- 
ing the  Wiskonsan.  Steamboat  agents  were  diligent 
in  advising  travelers  that  the  master  of  the  Wiskonscvi 
was  a  landsman,  a  factor  most  potent  in  diverting 
patronage,  and  Mr.  Chard  concluded  that  business 
demanded  a  lake  navigator  for  the  master  of  his  steam- 
boat, and  the  demand  being  supplied,  hostilities  ended 
and  peace  was  restored.  Mr.  Chard  was  energetic  in 
business  and  social  in  intercourse  with  all  whom  he  met, 
and  subsequently  was  popular  in  navigation  circles. 

In  1862  the  General  Government  assumed  jurisdic- 
tion of  the  Great  Lakes,  when  knowledge  and  experi- 
ence became  indispensable  for  a  commission  to  com- 
mand a  lake  vessel. 

The  serious  disasters  occurring  during  the  era  of 
side-wheel  steam-boating,  in  the  main  consisted  of  the 
burning  of  the  Washington,  Erie  and  G.  P.  Griffith 
on  Lake  Erie  and  the  Niagara  and  Sea  Bird  on  Lake 
Michigan ;  the  sinking  by  collision  of  the  Atlantic  and 
Chempeake  on  Lake  Erie,  and  the  Lady  Elgin  on 
Lake  Michigan ;  the  foundering  of  the  Sunbeam  on 
Lake  Superior,  and  the  Keystone  State  on  Lake 
Huron.  All  of  these  casualties  were  attended  with  the 
loss  of  human  life  in  a  degree  horrifying,  unless  that 
of  the  Chesapeake  be  the  exception. 

The  Washington,  in  1838,  and  the  Erie,  in  1841, 
were  burned  when  on  an  upward  passage,  both  at  the 
same  point  on  the  lake,  off  Silver  Creek,  thirty-five 
miles  out  of    Buffalo.      The  steamboat    Griffith   was 


*^***«#-<Slit;ir?riil^Ei^teMlil.^«fe<fe,a»^.s5-r,?te 


H 
I 


I 


St 

1 

R't' 
I 


I 


I 


86 


MODERN     ANTIQUITIES. 


burned  off  Fairport,  on  an  upward  trip,  her  passengers 
and  crew  being  driven  overboard  by  the  rapid  spread- 
ing of  the  Aames.  Captain  Roby  and  wife,  clasped  in 
each  other's  arms,  thus  met  their  death.  In  1860  the 
steamboat  Lady  Elgin,  in  command  of  Capt.  John 
Wilson,  was  running  between  the  ports  of  Lake  Michi- 
gan and  Lake  Superior.  At  Milwaukee  she  gave  an 
evening  excursion  to  the  firemen  of  that  city.  The 
boat  was  crowded  with  men,  women  and  children.  The 
night  was  dark  and  misty,  and  the  water  was  rough ; 
without  warning  a  sailing  vessel  crashed  into  the 
steamer,  then  glanced  off  and  was  seen  no  more,  while 
the  boat,  loaded  with  humanity,  sank  beneath  the 
waters.  When  the  boat  sunk  the  hurricane  deck 
floated  in  two  sections,  upon  which  officers  of  the 
sunken  steamer  placed  many  passengers.  The  shore 
was  distant  a  mile  or  more,  with  the  wind  blowing  on, 
towards  which  the  rafts  drifted.  The  one  carrying 
Captain  Wilson  reached  the  shore  intatit,  but  the  other 
broke  up  in  the  breakers.  To  assist  the  women  and 
children  struggling  in  the  angry  surf.  Captain  Wilson 
rushed  in,  but  the  frantic  sufferers  seized  hold  of  him 
in  numbers,  and  he  was  drowned  with  them.  Thus 
heroically  perished  Captain  Jack  Wilson,  a  brave  and 
popular  lake  sailor.  Three  days  later  the  steamboat 
North  Star,  Capt.  Ben  Sweet,  arrived  at  the  Soo, 
bringing  the  sad  news  of  the  loss  of  the  Litdy  EUjin. 
The  veteran  Captain  Lundy  was  standing  on  the 
wharf.     Captain  Sweet  locked  arms  with  him,  and  the 


■-:.«iu*\'K,4w:feto,L-  -, 


-'6iBim^*m'^i&i-&emi;imi!^mmi*&i^>mi(i^i^ 


THE    GREAT    LAKES. 


87 


passengers 
lid  spreatl- 
clasped  in 
n  1860  the 
;!apt.  John 
ake  Michi- 
he  gave  an 
city.     The 
idren.    The 
was  rough ; 
i   into   the 
more,  while 
eneath   the 
icane   deck 
3ers  of   the 
The  shore 
blowing  on, 
le   carrying 
it  the  other 
women  and 
bain  Wilson 
hold  of  him 
hem.     Thus 
a  brave  and 
B  steamboat 
at  the  Soo, 
Jad^J  Elf/in. 
ling   on    the 
lira,  and  the 


two  elderly  men  walked  slowly  in  the  direction  of  the 
hotel,  where  boarded  the  wife  of  Capt.  Jack  Wilson. 
Arm  in  arm  they  ascended  the  hotel  stairs.  At  the 
top  Captain  Lundy  halted,  while  Captain  Sweet  pro- 
(ieeded  to  the  door  of  Mrs.  Wilson's  apartment.  The 
old  sailor  raised  his  arm  to  knock  at  the  door,  hesi- 
tated, and  then  withdrew,  and  said,  "  Lundy,  I  can't !  " 
Then  the  other  old  sailor  essayed  to  perform  the 
mournful  errand,  but  also  returned  and  said,  "  Sweet, 
I  can't !  "  Then  the  veterans  of  many  battles  with  the 
elements  slowly  descended  the  stairs,  while  brushing 
aside  watery  particles,  drops  which  would  not  have 
appeared  in  their  eyes  ha<l  they  met  grim  Death  face 
to  face.  These  sturdy  men  could  face  a  tempest  of 
wind,  hail  and  snow  without  wincing,  but  yielded  when 
encountering  a  storm  of  nusery  about  to  engulf  the 
wife  of  a  brother  sailor.  They  could  brave  the  majes- 
tic power  of  the  Great  Lakes,  but  shrank  from  a  con- 
test with  human  sorrow.  Cherished  by  old  friends 
are  memories  of  Captains  Wilson,  Lundy  and  Sweet — 
their  contemporaries  who  linger  often  recall  their 
sterling  character. 

But  the  mystery  remained:  What  vessel  collided 
with  the  Lady  Elgin  ? 

After  a  time  it  was  discovered  that  the  schooner 
Augusta  had  disappeared  from  the  lakes,  no  one  knew 
where.  After  a  further  time,  some  six  years  there- 
after, came  from  the  sea-board  a  strange  vessel  named 
Col.    Cook,  and  engaged  in  carrying  iron  ore  from 


s•^•*i*w!*"^•fc,i^,.&a.'s^'»*H*«^"3S^3S4M,''•S»■s2ai.JS,S&a*«-Kt^ 


V-«Sfe^«r3>' 


^m.bl 


88 


MODERN     ANTIQUITIES. 


■f      ! 


Marquette  to  Cleveland.  On  one  occasion,  at  Cleve- 
land, the  CoL  Cook  was  at  Lafrinier's  ship-yard  for 
repairs.  While  undergoing  such  repairs  the  foreman 
of  the  yard  discovered  that  the  construction  of  the 
supposed  foreign-built  vessel  was  his  own  work ;  and, 
furthermore,  that  she  wa?  no  other  than  the  missing 
schooner  Augusta,  which  ran  down  the  steamboat 
Lady  Elgin.  But  her  inhuman  absconding  crew  were 
not  accounted  for. 

The  Col.  Cook  had  made  six  voyages  across  the 
Atlantic  in  the  lumber  trade.  Her  hulk  is  now  a  tow- 
barge  on  the  Great  Lakes  in  the  lumber  trade.  Dur- 
ing the  vigils  of  the  night  out  on  the  waters,  let  her 
crew  keep  a  sharp  lookout  for  the  ghostly  specters, 
some  two  hundred  in  number,  that  hover  over  the  craft 
of  ghastly  memory. 

On  the  night  of  the  17th  of  August,  1864,  the 
large  hotel  at  Ontonagon,  Lake  Superior,  was  illumi- 
nated throughout  its  three  stories.  Among  the  guests 
were  a  number  of  men  from  the  sea-board  cities, 
interested  in  the  rich  copper  mines  in  that  vicinity. 
Associated  with  them  were  mining  experts  and  busi- 
ness men  of  the  Lake  Superior  region— in  all,  a  party 
of  about  thirty  bright  men.  Their  business  at  Ontona- 
gon for  the  time  was  closed.  The  steamboat  Sunbeam 
was  expected  to  arrive  during  the  night,  on  which  the 
party  was  to  take  passage  down  the  lake.  All  were 
in  good  spirits,  for  the  viands  furnished  at  the  hotel 
were  noted  for  their  excellence,  and  this  was  one  of 


*a 


■■'«-4i,.. 


KS&fsssgfciatr.ir-  fik^miMSi'^iBi 


T*n 


,  at  Cleve- 
ip-yard  for 
[le  foreman 
ion  of  the 
vork ;  and, 
he  missing 
steamboat 
f  crew  were 

across  the 
now  a  tow- 
ade.  Dur- 
:ers,  let  her 
ly  specters, 
er  the  craft 

,  1864,  the 
was  illumi- 
l  the  guests 
oard  cities, 
lat  vicinity. 
s  and  busi- 
all,  a  party 
I  at  Ontona- 
a,t  Sunbeam 
n  which  the 
.  All  were 
at  the  hotel 
was  one  of 


THE    GREAT    LAKES. 


89 


the  gala  nights  of  the  booming  era  of  Ontonagcm. 
During  the  night  the  lights  of  the  Snnheam  were 
sighted,  the  prepared  bonfire  on  the  beach  was  lighted, 
and  soon  after  the  steamboat  was  anchored  off  shore. 
At  daybreak  all  passengers  were  on  board,  and  the 
boat  started  on  her  passage  down  the  lake,  and  six 
hours  later  the  steamboat  Snnhcinn,  and  every  soul  on 
board,  were  at  the  bottom  of  Lake  Superior,  entombed 
under  one  hundred  fathoms  of  the  coldest  lake  water 
on  the  globe,  and  where  each  and  every  vi(!tim  yet 
remains.  Tliere  is  no  resurrection  there — the  water 
of  Lake  Superior  never  gives  up  its  dead. 

On  that  fatal  day  an  inunense  vacuous  space  must 
have  suddenly  occurred  in  the  southeast.  Never  before 
or  since  has  the  air  been  known  to  move  over  Lake 
Superior  with  equal  velocity.  The  frail  steamboat 
Sunbeam  was  wholly  unequal  to  the  contest.  To 
safely  encounter  such  a  tempest  her  unfortunate  pas- 
sengers and  crew  might  as  well  have  taken  passage  on 
a  hoop-skirt. 

To  counteract  the  solemnity  of  melancholy  reading, 
a  humorous  incident  of  the  navigation  of  Lake  Supe- 
rior is  here  related. 

Prior  to  the  opening  of  the  Soo  Canal  the  propellers 
Manhattan  and  Monticello  were  conveyed  overland  to 
Lake  Superior.  On  a  day  when  no  other  boats  were 
on  the  lake,  in  day-time  and  clear  weather,  when  four 
miles  off  shore,  where  the  lake  is  one  hundred  and 
fifty  miles  wide,  they  met  and  collided.     Both  boats 


'•'«*(*Sj$i^'^S^I&^ia^igiViyi**s-:»,«w4i»;*i-j.i 


i-«.-.'i».'^U^>.^i-V.r^-;<^.jiHyiii^Sir^-- 


w 


90 


MODERN     ANTigUITIES. 


were  coinpelltHl  to  make  for  the  shore,  where  their 
wrecks  still  remain  l)urie«l  in  the  Hiiiul.  This  rare  feat 
was  a  consolation  to  (tanal  boatmen — that  they  were 
not  classed  as  mariners. 

In  1841,  the  first  i)roi)eller  steamer  known  to  the 
lakes,  was,  under  the  auspices  of  the  inventor  of  tlu' 


♦  :  .f 


The  PROPKUiEK  Vandalia— 1842. 
First  Propbller  on  thk  Lakes. 

screw-wheel.  Captain  Ericsson,  built  at  Oswego,  by 
Capt.  James  Van  Cleve.  Prior  to  the  Oswego  boat,  a 
propeller  hatl  been  built  at  New  York,  and  when  ex- 
amining that  vessel.  Captain  Van  Cleve  entered  into 
an  arrangement  with  the  inventor  to  build  a  propeller 
for  the  lakes,  and  to  exhibit  her  at  the  principal  lake 
ports— hence  the  Vandalia,  the  original  lake  propeller. 


■..-.;?9«6e»t*sv.cA«',-  i'^ 


hevf  theii- 
8  rare  feat 
they  were 

iwn  to  the 
itor  of  thf 


Dswego,  by 
i^ego  boat,  a 
ul  when  ex- 
snterecl  into 
a  propeller 
incipal  lalie 
ce  propeller. 


THE    (J  RE  AT     LAKES. 


91 


Under  the  (>onnnan<l  of  Capt.  Kufiis  Hawkins,  the 
ViimJtilid  made  a  trial  trij*  on  Lake  ( )ntari<>,  Novem- 
ber, 1841,  and  tlie  working  of  the  Moruw-wheel  was 
prononneed  a  HiiceeHS. 

In  May,  1H42,  the  Vnndalid  made  the  passage  of 
the  Welland  Canal  to  Lake  Erie,  and  at  Hnffalo  was 
inspected  with  euriosity  and  interest  by  lake  trans- 
porters and  navigators,  her  advantages  being  explained 
by  Ca])tain  Ericsson  in  perstm.  Then,  by  the  Ilollis- 
ters,  owners  of  the  steamboats  St.  /^oids  and  >S'a//- 
(IhhIij^  an  arrangement  was  made  to  build  two  j)ro- 
pellers,  and  the  next  season  ap])eared  in  commission 
the  propeller  Ilerctifes,  Capt.  F.  S.  Wheeler,  and 
the  Sampsun,  Capt.  Amos  Pratt,  and  both  were  placed 
as  freighters  in  trade  with  Lake  Michigan  ports. 
In  1844  appeared  another  propeller,  constrncted  by 
the  HoUisters  —  the  upper  cabin  passenger  propeller 
Princeton,  commanded  by  Capt.  Amos  Pratt.  Com- 
paratively, the  Princeton  was  a  modern  constructed 
vessel,  and  a  success.  But,  as  a  rule,  lake  navigators 
did  not  I'emlily  take  to  the  propeller,  and  not  until  the 
middle  fifties,  when  the  railroads  had  paralleled  the 
shores  of  the  lakes,  and  relegated  into  inactivity  the 
side-wheel  passenger  steamer,  did  the  propeller  come 
into  universal  use  on  the  lakes. 

The  prejudice  against  the  propeller  was  well  illus- 
trated when  Capt.  Fred  S.  Miller  refused  one  as  a 
gift.  For  several  seasons  F.  S.  Miller  had  sailed  as 
mate  with  Capt.  Levi  Allen,  while  nursing  th«  hope 


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92 


MODERN     ANTIQUITIES. 


that  his  thrifty  brother,  Cant,  W.  T.  Miller,  would 
aoqnire  the  requisite  interest  in  some  side-wheeler  to 
make  him  the  master  thereof.  About  1846,  Capt.  W. 
T.  Miller  became  possessed  of  a  propeller,  when  he 
said  to  his  bi-other  Fred,  that  he  could  take  and  run 
her  on  his  own  account.  But  tlie  generous  offer  was 
promptly  declined,  and  in  a  manner  emphatic.  "  I 
want  to  say  to  you.  Captain  Miller,  that  I  am  mate  of 
the  steamboat  Niagara,  and  don't  propose  to  abandon 
that  position  to  be  master  of  a  thing  like  that."  For 
several  years  thereafter,  "  I  want  to  say  to  you,  Cap- 
tain Miller,"  was  an  expression  frequent  among  lake 
men,  until  worn  out.  However,  the  marked  superiority 
of  the  propeller  for  deep  water  navigation  was  soon 
acknowledged  throughout  the  civilized  world. 

Fleets  of  grain  and  lumber-laden  sail  vessels  began 
to  make  the  passage  of  the  straits,  connecting  Lakes 
Huron  and  Erie,  in  the  early  forties.  The  delays  in- 
cident to  such  passages,  caused  by  adverse  winds,  sug- 
gested a  system  of  towing  between  the  lakes,  and  for 
such  purpose  the  small  side-wheel  steamboats,  then 
plentiful,  were  utilized  for  towing  through  the  rivers 
Detroit  and  St.  Clair. 

In  the  meantime  the  screw-wheel  had  demonstrated 
its  superior  power,  and  the  more  wieldy  boat,  with 
power  applied  under  the  stern,  hence  the  screw-wheel 
tug-boat — now  universal  in  waters  of  civilization. 

Harbor  towing,  as  an  industry,  was  not  inaugurated 
under  favorable  auspices,  as  at  first  its  progress  was 


Hi 


THE    GREAT    LAKES. 


98 


slow.  When  in  port  vessel  men  were  chary  of  k.  tug, 
fearing  damage  to  themselves,  or  of  causing  it  to 
others  when  moving  about  with  their  lines  aboard. 
When  becalmed  on  the  lake,  they  were  glad  to  be 
towed  to  the  entrance  of  the  harbor,  where  they  would 
drop  the  tu^,,  run  their  lines  and  warp  the  vessel  tc 
the  dock  or  elevator.  The  first  lake  harbor  towing 
was  in  Buffalo  Creek,  in  1852.  During  the  winter  of 
1851-2,  four  screw-wheel  tug-boats  were  under  con- 
struction at  Buffalo,  all  of  which  were  placed  in  com- 
mission during  the  season  of  1852.  First  to  appear 
was  the  George  W.  Tift,  in  June,  owned  by  Elias 
and  Thomas  Simms,  the  latter  her  navigator.  Length, 
75  feet ;  beam,  16  feet ;  depth,  7  feet. 

However,  the  Tift  was  not  the  original  screw-wheel 
tug-boat  of  the  lakes.  In  1851,  the  propeller  tug 
Franklin  was  built  at  Albany,  and  upon  the  opening 
of  the  Erie  Canal,  in  t)  e  spring  of  1852,  she  made  the 
passage  of  the  canal  to  Buffalo,  arriving  there  prior  to 
the  first  of  June,  and  at  once  commenced  towing  in 
Buffalo  Creek,  two  weeks  prior  to  the  appearance  of 
the  George  W.  Tift. 

To  skillfully  manage  a  tug-boat  in  close  quarters 
requires  the  hand  and  brain  of  an  expert.  Prompt 
action  and  a  level  head  alone  will  often  prevent  dis- 
aster. Tiie  law  makes  the  operator  liable  in  cases  of 
malpractice. 

The  tug-boat  is  distinguished  as  a  life  and  property 
saver.     Often  has  it  given  timely  aid  in  places  diffi- 


i' 


i  1 

ft  i 


J-"»4S«i'  'r 


94 


MODERN     ANTIQUITIES. 

-when  a  life  was  rescued,  or  prop- 


eult  and  dangerous- 
evty  saved  from  loss.  The  tug-boat  captain  is  honored 
by  the  supposition  that  he  and  his  boat  are  equal  to 
any  emergency,  and  usually  they  fill  the  bill. 

An  Episode. 

In  1866,  the  tug-boat  Joe  D.  Dudley  was  ..tationed 
at  Marquette.     When  November  came,  the  Soo  River 
tugs,  in  order  to  share  a  rush  of  business  on  the  river 
St.  Clair,  abandoned  the  late  fleet  of  Lake  Superior. 
Vessels  had  to  make  their  way  to  Lake  Huron  the  best 
th  y  could.     The  ore  shippers  at  Marquette  gave  in- 
ducement for  the  Dudley  to  go  to  the  Soo  and  tow  the 
abandoned  vessels  through  the  river  to  Lake  Huron. 
December  came  when  all   but  two  of  the  fleet  had 
passed  down — the  schooners  lieindeer  and   William 
Shupe  being  still  above  the  canal.     On  the  third  day 
of  December  the  Dudley  passed  up  the  river  to  the 
caaal  in  the  midst  of   a  violent  storm  of   wind  and 
snow,  continuous  for  forty-eight  hours.     On  the  early 
morning  of   the  fifth   the  Dtidley  left  the  canal   in 
search  of  the  belated  vessels,  with  migivings  as  to  their 
fate.     However,  when  rounding  Point  Aux  Pins,  the 
schooners  were  sighted,  rolling  at  their  anchors  below 
Point  Iroquois.     The  tug  went  alongside  of  the  ^hu2)e 
and  found  her  crew  heaving  up  anchors  while  treading 
a  coating  of  ice  overspreading  the  deck  of  the  vessel 
— in  fact,  all  above  water-line  wa*  ice-bound.     Then 
the  tug  poiiited  for  the  lieindeer,  with  a  view  of  tail- 


or  prop- 
i  honored 
!  equal  to 


..tationed 
>oo  River 

the  river 
Superior. 
1  the  best 

gave  in- 
d  tow  the 
e  Huron, 
fleet  had 

William 
third  day 
er  to  the 
wind  and 

the  early 

canal  in 
IS  to  their 

Pins,  the 
ors  below 
;he  iShupe 
s  treading 
the  vessel 
id.  Then 
)w  of  tail- 


THE    GREAT    LAKES. 


95 


ing  her  to  the  Shupe.  IHe  little  schooner  presented 
a  weird  scene  of  frigid  desolation.  There  she  hung  to 
her  cables,  responding  to  the  roll  of  a  heavy  sea,  and 
without  a  sail  lowered— all  hanging  in  frozen  tatters. 
All  in  sight  was  ice-bound,  and  not  a  humar  soul  in 
evidence,  and  the  sounding  of  the  whistle  for  a  time 
failed  to  produce  life.  The  roll  of  the  vessel  made 
the  boarding  thereof  extremely  ^I'fficult.  Finally  a 
man  was  placed  aboard,  just  as  a  human  head  peered 
above  the  cabin  hatchway — the  most  unkempt  head 
imaginable — the  head  of  Capt.  Redmond  Rider,  and 
which  gave  voice  inquisitively,  "What  do  you  want?" 
Darkness  covered  the  waters  when  the  schooners  were 
trowed  into  the  canal,  a  well-remembered  day  of  toil- 
some work  for  the  crews  of  vessels  and  tug.  On  De- 
cember 6th  the  Shupe  was  towed  to  Lake  Huion, 
while  the  Reindeer  remained  at  the  Soo,  presumably 
for  the  winter.  There  new  sails  were  made,  when  the 
vessel  was  sailed  to  Detroit,  directed  by  an  intrepid 
man  who  knew  not  fear. 

Five  years  later,  Redmond  Rider,  with  his  command, 
the  propeller  R.  G.  Colmm,  went  to  the  bottom  of 
Lake  Huron,  there  to  join  his  brother,  who  had  pre- 
ceeded  him  a  couple  of  years  to  a  watery  sepulcher  in 
the  same  section  of  the  lake,  and  where  they  are  to- 
gether entombed  under  forty  fathoms  of  water.  The 
Rider  brothers  were  widely  known  among  lake  sailors, 
were  considered  typical  seamen,  noted  for  their  intre- 
pidity aud  unostentatious  demeanor. 


;.i 


Tsm^a^.f-' 


96 


MODERN     ANTIQUITIES. 


CHAPTER    VIII. 


During  the  concluding  year  of  the  village  era,  Dib- 
(lell  Holt  was  publicly  executed,  November,  1831,  for 
killing  his  wife,  and  his  was  thr  last  public  execution 
in  Buffalo.  On  this  occasion  the  gallows  was  erected 
at  the  junction  of  Genesee  street  and  the  Terrace.  In 
Holt's  case  the  fact  was  noted  that  he  first  came  to 
Buffalo  from  a  distance  with  the  throng  who  came  to 
witness  the  hanging  of  the  three  Thaycrs.  Six  years 
later  he  was  the  star  performer  in  a  like  tragedy,  pre- 
sented on  the  same  stage,  and  to  many  who  were  of 
the  same  audience,  marching  in  procession  over  the 
identical  ground  traversed  by  the  famous  culprits 
whose  execution  his  curiosity  to  witness  was  the  pre- 
cursor of  hib  own  doom. 

While  in  Buffalo,  in  1825,  Holt  became  impressed 
with  the  glowing  prospects  of  the  town,  remaining  there 
several  days  prospecting  for  a  location.  He  returned 
to  his  home,  married,  and  at  once  settled  in  Buffalo. 
Being  possessed  of  a  sum  of  money,  he  purchased  a 
lot  and  store  thereon,  on  the  west  side  of  Main,  a  few 
doors  above  Court  street,  in  which  he  established  a 
grocery,  his  residence  being  in  the  story  above.  During 
the  first  three  years  of  his  residence  in  Buffalo,  Holt 
was  considered  a  model  husband,  living  happily  with 


liiUlinii  I 


SKETCHES. 


97 


his  wife,  but,  contracting  intemperate  habits,  he  became 
sullen  and  morose,  then  cross  anil  abnsive  to  his  wife. 
Her  reproaches  for  his  increasing  intemperance  often 
produced  ruptures  between  them,  when  he  would  assure 
her  that  her  days  were  numbered ;  that  she  would 
never  attend  his  funeral,  and  like  assertions.  The  day 
before  the  murder  he  dismissed  his  clerk,  and  closed 
his  store.  His  confession  after  conviction  discloses 
that  he  went  into  the  room  where  she  was  sitting  with 
their  child  in  her  arms,  and  while  driving  a  nail  in  the 
wall  near  the  ceiling,  a  miss-stroke  caught  his  thumb, 
and  at  his  outcry,  caused  by  pain,  she  snickered, 
whereupon  he  struck  her  three  blows  on  the  head 
with  the  hammer,  intending  to  kill  her,  which  he  did 
almost  instantly.  Holt  then  fled,  meeting  the  ser- 
vant girl  on  the  stairs,  who  gave  alarm,  and  the  fugi- 
tive was  pursued  to  the  outskirts  of  the  village,  where 
he  was  found  secreted  in  a  log  and  brush  heap,  where 
now  is  Day's  Park,  and  placed  in  jail.  When  con- 
fronted with  his  victim,  he  said  thai  the  inquest  was 
useless  ceremony,  that  he  killed  his  wife,  and  that  she 
deserved  killing.  For  committing  the  ghastly  deed. 
Holt  deserved  greater  punishment  than  he  received. 

The  locomotive  first  appeared  in  Buft'alo  in  1836, 
running  to  and  from  Niagara  Falls.  The  next  railroad 
to  enter  the  town  was  the  Buffalo  and  Attica,  in  1842. 
Prior  to  the  railroads,  the  four-horse  str.ge  coach  ran 
out  of  the  city  on  all  routes.  An  old  time  advertise- 
ment reads  thus : 


ill 


:^f^>''iiif:4j^.i(ii^^^S^^i'^Mvi*^^-'-:>^'^l^^^ 


,'t  a  *i.w^''-''»-K;ti'j^«f|iS.^ 


■'I 


98 


MODERN     ANTIQUITIES. 


COACH   LINES. 
The  Pilot  Mail  Coach. 
Leaves  Buffalo  every  evening,  arriving  at  Geneva  tbe  first 
day,  I'tica  the  second,  and  Albany  the  third. 

The  Diligence  Coach. 
Leaves  Buffalo  every  morning  at  8  o'clock,  arrives  at  Avon 
the  first  night.  Auburn  the  second,  Utica  the  third,  and  Albany 
the  fourth. 

The  Lewibton  Coach. 
Via  the  Falls.     Leaves  Buffalo  every  morning  at  6  o'clock, 
arriving  at  Lewiston  7.80  p.  m. 

The  Canada  Coach. 
For  the  Falls.     Leaves  every  morning  at  8  o'clock,  arriving 
at  tue  Falls  at  Noon.     Extras  furnished  on  either  side  of  the 
river  at  any  hour. 

The  Westekn  Mail  Coach. 
For   Fredonia,    Erie  and    Cleveland.      Leaves   Buffalo  every 
morning  at  5  o'clock.     Baggage  at  risk  of  the  owners. 

Bela  D.  Cob,  and  others. 
Buffalo,  March,  1828.  E  L.  Stevenson,  Agert. 

Such  were  the  conveniences  of  travel  out  of  Buffalo 
sixty  years  ago— four  days  in  a  stage  to  Albany,  now 
six  hours  in  a  luxurious  car,  and  many  passengers  are 
impatient  if  there  be  a  half-hour's  detention.  And 
such  is  favored  human  nature. 


mmam 


c,  arriving 
lide  of  the 


f  Buffalo 
)any,  now 
ingers  are 
an.     And 


SKETCHES. 


99 


Here  is  an  advertisement  published  in  a  loca!  news- 
paper of  1828: 

For  Sale. — A  farm  in  the  immediate  vicinity,  one-half  mile 
from  the  court-house,  situated  l>etween  two  public  road^,  one  of 
which  will  un(|ue8tionably  be  adopted  as  the  Great  National  Koad 
between  B\iiTalo  and  Washington.  Of  the  premises  there  are 
about  fifty-three  acres,  clear  and  stumpluss,  and  producing  good 
crops.  Thereon  is  a  good  house  and  barn,  and  as  good  a  sjiriug 
of  water  as  any  in  the  country,  and  also  |700  worth  of  good  post 

JouN  O.  Camp. 

1828. 


and  rail  fence. 
Buffalo,  Sept. 


The  "  farm  "  now  comprises  the  realty  bounded  by 
Main,  North,  Delaware  and  Virginia  streets.  The 
spring  of  water  referred  to  was  located  on  the  south- 
west corner  of  the  tract,  and  is  yet  in  evidence  in  the 
rear  of  the  line  of  dwellings  on  Delaware  avenue  and 
Virginia  street,  covered  by  a  dilapidated  old  frame- 
work. Around  this  spring,  under  the  shade  of 
majestic  elms,  were  wont  to  camp  the  Indians  of  tlie 
vicinity,  even  unto  the  time  of  the  advent  of  the  city. 

In  1828  there  appeared  at  New  York  City  a  con- 
spicuous character  named  Sam  Patch,  who  subse- 
quently became  notorious  in  Buffalo  and  throughout 
Western  New  Yoi-k.  Sam  possessed  an  inordinate 
desire  for  public  notoriety,  and,  to  gain  such  distinc- 
tion, he  risked  life  and  limb  in  jumping  from  the  mast- 
heads of  anchored  ships  into  the  waters  of  the  North 
River.  Such  exploits  of  Sam  Patch  aroused  the  covet- 
iveness  of  public  purveyors  who  profit  by  the  assem- 


1 


■^eStM^^^SM^^^Miiai^^iiiif^i^'mi*''  'jM^s^mte^,M^.'^*tig^)ii^st>mh^me 


100 


MODERN     ANTigUITIKS. 


blage  of  jicople  I'n  ma»8i\  prominently  the  hotel  and 
Hhoi)-keei)er8  at  Niagara  Falls. 

In  Septenihoi ,  1829,  it  was  announced  far  and  wide 
that  Sam  Patch  would  jump  the  Niagara  Falls,  and 
then  throughout  the  surrounding  country  the  scheme 
was  the  general  topic  of  conversation,  the  many  incred- 
ulous scoffing  at  its  absurdity.  That  Sam  Patch  ha»l 
jumped  from  a  height  into  the  still  waters  of  the 
North  River  was  admitted,  but  that  he  would  attempt 
a  dive  into  the  maelstro-n  of  Niagara  was  considered 
an  absurdity.  This  pronounctd  skepticism  brougni 
forth  from  the  illustrious  scapegrace  his  historic  utter- 
ence:  "Some  things  can  be  done  as  well  as  others." 
This  homely  speech  became  proverbial  and  was  quoted 
universally  for  years  thereafter.  However,  on  October 
6,  1829,  Sam  Patch,  from  a  staging  projecting  from 
the  Biddle  staircase,  leaped  into  the  comparatively  still 
waters  below.  After  a  drop  of  125  feet  through  tne 
air  he  disappeared  from  view,  but  in  due  time  appeared 
at  the  surface  and  was  picked  up  uninjured,  the  hero 
of  the  hour  and  occasion. 

On  the  platform,  before  making  the  leap,  Sam  mani- 
fested his  frivolous  egotism  by  hilariously  singing  a 
ribald  verse : 

"I  wish  I  were  in  Buffalo, 
Uood  friends  along  with  me, 
I'd  call  for  liquors  plenty — 

Have  flowing  bowls  on  ever  side  ; 
Hard  fortune  never  grieved  me — 
1  am  young  and  the  world  is  wide." 


■uWilAiMt  MHia. 


SKETCHES. 


101 


Then  placing  to  \\h  \\\»h  a  flank  of  rum  he  took  a 
deep  draught,  and  then  added  a  couplet  to  his  singing : 

"Good  l!(|Uor  in  a  poor  iiian'H  house 
Is  a  pleasing  thing  to  view." 

And  then  he  jumped,  maintaining  good  posture 
while  in  descent. 

There  is  a  legend  that  Sam  Patch  repeated  his 
jump  at  the  Falls,  drawing  a  larger  crowd  of  witnesses 
tlian  on  the  first  occasion.  However,  adhering  to  his 
proniinciamento  that  "  some  things  can  be  done  as 
well  as  others,"  it  was  soon  after  announced  that  Sam 
would  jump  the  Genesee  Falls  at  Kochester,  which  he 
did,  and  at  the  same  time  jumped  into  eternity.  From 
a  platform  elevated  thirty  feet  above  the  brink  of  the 
cataract  he  leaped  into  the  waters  below,  never  again 
to  rise  in  life.  He  was  hilariously  drunk,  and  in  his 
descent  he  swung  his  arms  wildly.  When  his  body 
was  found  it  was  noted  that  both  shoulder-joints  were 
dislocated,  the  effect  of  striking  the  water  with  arms 
extended.  Such  was  the  rise  and  fall  of  the  original 
of  the  present  race  of  Steve  Brodies. 

At  the  close  of  1831  Buffalo  was  a  thriving  village 
of  nine  thousand  inhabitants,  with  the  rapidly  increas- 
ing commerce  of  Lake  Erie  promoting  its  growth. 
That  a  community  of  pioneers,  impoverished  by  war 
and  burdened  with  debt,  contracted  in  re-establishing 
their  homes  despoiled  in  the  conflict — the  situation  in 
1820 — should   within   the  decade  develop  a  frontier 


111  : 


■Mi0mi^^i»i^^i^iame:i<ii:$!<>!ms!mm^^m^msmam^mm 


ir-W 


102 


MOnKRN     ANTIQUITIK8. 


Iminlet  into  an  iniiwrtant  conun^rcial  city  was  an 
achievement  without  a  parallel— a  eonHummation  n»a»lo 
possible  through  the  peraeverauce,  spirit  and  energy  of 
its  citizens.  Granger,  Forward,  Townsend,  Wilkeson, 
Coit,  Allen,  Tracy,  Johnson,  Walden,  Pratt,  Chapin, 
Marshall,  Trowbridge,  Austin,  Potter,  Miller,  Barton, 
Barker,  Bennett  and  Ileaoock,  were  a«i  irresistible 
force  in  promoting  public  enterprise.  In  April,  1832, 
the  important  village  became  an  ambitious  young  city. 

i8tn. 

"  Hure,  on  these  asbor,,"  the  forefathers  cried, 
"  We'll  now  build  a  temple  of  trade  ; " 

"Bravo  !"  cried  Lalte  Erie,  swelling  with  pride, 
"I'll  cheerily  join  the  parade." 

1882. 

The  Pioneers  wrought,  their  work  was  done, 

Their  temple  was  wondrous  fair  ; 
The  City  entered  and  stood  on  the  pedestal  atone, 

And  waved  her  cap  high  in  the  air. 

From  the  beginning  Buffalonians  have  ever  been 
conftdently  enthusiastic  in  their  predictions  of  an  im- 
portant future  for  their  village  and  city.  By  its 
founders  the  infant  city  was  christened  with  sublime 
confidence  that  wealth  and  importance  awaited  its 
early  future.  The  predictions  then  made  were,  at  the 
time,  considered  illusionary,  born  of  unwonted  enthu- 
siasm, by  other  communities.  At  this  advanced  period 
they  read  like  the  profound  statements  of  one  who  had. 


'i.   .iraii 


SKETCH  E8. 


108 


by  Divine  power,  been  entrusted  with  a  foresiglit  of 
the  future.  Appended  \h  tlie  writing  of  one  of  the 
foumlers  of  the  eity : 

The  "go-ahead"  of  tho  brave  ami  eccentric  Crockett,  Las  be- 
come the  watchword  of  the  n^f.  In  every  dejinrtnient  of 
civilized  life,  in  litttrntiire,  in  science,  in  mechanical  arts,  in  the 
lidjors  of  the  field,  all  seem  to  listen  with  delight  to  this  spirit- 
stirrinj?  talisman,  and  rush  onward,  with  redoubled  enerjf.v,  to 
wealth  and  greatness.  The  march  of  mind  is  onward  ;  our  means 
of  education  are  enlarging  and  extending  their  enlightening 
intiuences  over  the  land  ;  now  discoveries  are  daily  adding  to  the 
legacy  of  former  times ;  the  power  of  machinery  is  api)lied  to 
almost  every  purpose  of  public  utility  or  private  enterprise  in 
which  speed  is  attained  or  lalior  performed — steamboats  capable 
of  contending  with  winds  and  tide,  railroads  which  will  soon 
enalde  the  home-bred  farmer  to  make  the  tour  of  the  state  in 
almost  the  time  it  takes  to  traverse  his  own  ilomain. 

Within  the  past  fifty  year'?  mighty  changes  have  been  wrought 
in  the  relative  importance  and  geographical  extent  of  these 
I'nited  States — New  England,  once  the  nucleus  around  which 
gathered  the  hopes  of  our  infant  country — the  center  of  strength 
and  power,  to  whose  arm  the  feel)le  branches  of  this  family  of 
republics  looked  for  protection.  But  the  scene  is  changed.  The 
western  world  has  been  explored,  new  states  have  erisen  as  if  by 
magic,  and  every  year  adds  thousands  to  the  throngs  who  have 
left  their  fatherland  to  rear  their  altars  amidst  the  charms  of  the 
western  wilderness. 

The  great  channel  of  communication  between  the  Eastern  and 
Western  States  is  fixed  by  Nature  through  the  chain  of  lakes 
forming  the  division  between  the  United  States  and  the  British 
possessions  on  the  north.  The  Erie  Canal  affords  a  safe,  easy, 
expeditious  and  cheap  mode  of  travel,  and  for  conveying  heavy 
merchandise,  and  which  forever  must  remain  the  principal  thor- 
oughfare. While  goods  can  be  shipped  in  New  York  and  safely 
landed  in  Chicago  in  twel  ve  days  with  only  two  re-shipments,  it 


,iF 


l<l 


3«i&v<i^#iftli^ilsi^*l«%^4^^iMti^>i%itH^^ 


»:ijm)^t0mmi«eBi^»f^iff^,t:iimti!!iiif>- 


u 


104 


MODERN     ANTIQUITIES. 


is  not  to  be  considered  that  merchants  will  seek  other  channels. 
With  these  advantages  and  prospects  in  view,  the  people  of  Buf- 
falo may  well  be  proud  of  their  home,  proud  of  the  fame  already 
acquired  of  their  infant  city.  It  has  n.-.  rival — it  can  have  none. 
Cities  west  of  u.s  may  arise  to  wealth  aud  importance,  but  they 
will  be  our  tributaries  ;  their  growth  our  growth,  their  greatness 
our  greatness — all  combined  furnish  a  fit  epitome  of  the  materials 
which  are  to  mak<?  BuiTalo  one  of  the  grandest  cities  in  the 
Union.  In  the  west  lies  a  country  destined  to  be  a  land  of  cities 
— a  country  of  lakes  and  rivers,  whose  navigable  waters  traverse 
half  the  continent,  and  teeming  with  every  agncultural  produc- 
tion. The  abundance  of  these  must  pass  through  our  hands  on 
its  way  to  the  sea-board,  while  the  luxuries  of  the  Old  World 
will  center  here,  thus  rendering  Buffalo  what  it  may  ever  claim 
to  be — the  (Ireat  National  Exchange. 


But  few  of  the  present  people  of  Buffalo  are  aware 
that  a  massive  monument  to  Commodore  Perry  came 
very  near  being  erected  on  the  Terrace,  where  now 
stands  the  Liberty  Pole.  In  1832  the  elated  citizens 
of  the  newly  incorporated  city,  organized  a  Monu- 
ment Association,  and  a  committee  was  appointed  to 
erect  in  Buffalo  a  laonument  to  Commodore  Perry, 
the  expense  thereof  to  be  supplied  by  popular  sid)- 
scription.  The  promises  to  pay  were  numerous  and 
ample  for  the  completion  of  the  work,  and  the  com- 
mittee contracted  for  its  construction  in  1836;  but 
the  financial  ruin  of  1837  prevented  the  consummation 
of  the  enterpi'ise,  and  in  lieu  thereof  the  Liberty  Pole 
of  1838  was  erected.  The  memorial  was  decorated 
with  a  representation  of  the  proposed  structure,  and 
read  as  follows: 


SKETCHES, 


105 


kher  cbannels. 
)eople  of  Buf- 
1  fame  already 
an  have  none, 
mce,  but  they 
heir  greatness 
F  the  materials 
;  cities  in  the 

land  of  cities 
'aters  traverse 
Itural  produc- 

our  hands  on 
le  Old  World 
lay  ever  claim 


0  are  aware 
Perry  came 

where  now 
ted  citizens 
d  a  Monu- 
piM)inted  to 
dore  Perry, 
lopular  snb- 
merous  and 
id  the  com- 

1836;  but 
nsunimation 
ii  jerty  Pole 
,s  decorated 
ucture,  and 


This  monument,  to  be  erected  by  the  citizens  of  BuflFalo  in 
honor  of  the  late  Com.  Oliver  Hazard  Perry,  is  to  be  one  hundred 
feet  high,  surmounted  by  a  colossal  statue  of  Perry  fifteen  feet  in 
height.  On  the  sides  of  t.he  pedestal,  which  is  thirty-four  feet 
square,  are  to  be  sculptured  relievet,  representing  the  battle  of 
Lake  Erie,  and  other  prominent  events  in  the  life  of  the  hero. 
The  whole  structure  will  be  of  American  white  marble,  and  cost 
$75,000.  Its  style  will  be  Grecian.  Its  builders  are  Frazee  and 
Launits,  of  the  Oity  of  New  York. 

The  committee  comprised  the  following  citizens ; 

Stephen  Champlin,  U.  S.  N.,  Chairman. 
Benjamin  Caryl, 


Reuben  B.  Heacock, 
Samuel  Wilkeson,* 
Jacob  A.  Barker, 
Roswel',  W.  Haskins, 
James  T.  Homans,  C.S.  N., 
Henry  R.  Stagg, 


John  W.  Clark, 
Pierre  A.  Barker, 
Benjamin  Bathbun, 
Alanson  Palmer. 


The  original  Eagle  Street  Theati-e  was  erected  in 
1836,  and  ojjened  to  the  public  July  20th  of  that  year. 
It  stood  midway  of  the  block  between  Main  and  Wash- 
ington streets,  its  front  entrance  being  where  now 
is  the  Eagle  street  entrance  to  the  Hotel  Iroquois. 
The  side  spaces,  running  to  Main  and  Washington 
streets,  were  inclosed  with  a  high-board  fence.  The 
inclosure  on  the  Washington  street  side  was  occupied 
by  the  gas  factory,  where  gas  for  the  illumination  of 
the  house  was  manufactured — the  first  in  Buffalo. 
Wlien  opened,  the  Buffalo  theatre,  in  construction 
and  appointment,  was  unsurpassed  by  any  like  in- 
stitution in  the  country.  Appended  is  its  original 
announcement : 


I 

i 

i  1; 


i 


ill 

I   ! 
1:1 


1^  i 

i 

4 


4>s*i4iiS&!FS%S»Vj;Stii^*ii*»'»«^ 


•'W.-,*^5(^^i^isii*V*^;^(i"!.-5.'jefei,«e-:'A^fti»A'.'«' 


^4, 


106 


MODERN     ANTIQUITIES. 


EA(4LE  STHEET  THEATRE. 
A.  Brisiiane,  Proprietor. 
Dean  &  McKinney,  Lessees  and  Managers. 
This  splendid  bouse  will   be  opened  July  20,    1835.      The 
capacity  of  the  building  is  exceeded  by  few  in  tha  Union.     There 
are  four  tiers  of  boxes  and  a  sparious  pit,  all  furnished  with  com- 
fortable seats  ;  the  three  lower  tiers  with  backs  to  the  seats.  The 
scenery  and  embellishments  are  of  a  style  not  surpassed  by  any 
theatre  in  the  world.     The  whole  is  lighted  by  oletiant  gas,  man 
ufactured  on  the   premises.     The  managers  are   well  known  in 
Buffalo,  and  their  eilorts  will  be  exerted  to  retain  the  kindness 
they  have  always  experienced  at  the  hands  of  the  public.     Per- 
formances every  week-day  night  during  the  season. 

The  "  season  "  was  during  the  'noatha  of  lake  navi- 
gation. When  navigation  closed  the  theatre  did 
likewise  for  the  winter  months. 

The  pit  was  consigned  by  the  managers  to  the  t'  wn 
boys — not  the  bad  boys,  but  the  good  boys,  who  didn't 
die  young — as  their  exclusive  domain,  and  where  they 
congregated  nightly,  at  twenty -five  cents  per  head,  to 
witness  Dan  Marble  in  his  masterly  presentation  of  the 
"  Game  Cock  in  the  Wilderness,"  and  other  specialties, 
not  forgetting  occasions  when  Edwin  Forrest,  supported 
by  Josephine  Clifton,  was  enacting  Shakespearian 
tragedies.  Mr.  Dean  was  quite  popular  with  the 
young  people,  with  whom  he  maintained  a  genial  famil- 
iarity. During  a  week  of  Forrest  and  Miss  Clifton, 
the  swells  in  the  boxes  leveled  opera-glasses  upon  the 
stage,  a  proceeding  novel  to  the  boys  in  the  pit,  they 
considering  the  application  of  a  spy-glass  at  such  short 
range  too  silly  for  anything. 


i 


1 

1 


iS 


1'! 


Ill 

*    ■ 


The  Orioinal  Za::le  Street  Theatre— 1835. 


'-^^f^^^sd^^mx^^'-  '^^^^^'^■yi^iS^^i^f^^^^f'*^  ?.i-J[i[%m'^  -.. 


'■.j^^A^ci^-fi^.  -U,  i-r  ■.  -^-iirtB^i:  .■.,--"^='^l.-7>/';-.-^M-fS?lE^ 


108 


MODERN     ANTIQUITIES. 


On  Franklin  above  Chippewa  street  there  lived  a 
Dutch  family  named  Snyder,  in  whose  garden  were  a 
growth  of  seed  cucumbers,  sizeable  and  yellow,  which, 
by  boring  lenj^thwise  and  connecting  a  pair  of  them, 
contrived  a  fair  imitation  of  an  opera-glass — good 
enough  for  four  boys  who  entered  the  pit  with  such 
imitations  concealed  under  their  coats. 

During  a  scene  when  the  glasses  were  focused  upon 
the  stage  from  the  lower  tier,  the  imitations  were  pro- 
duced and  focused  in  burlesque.  Strange  enough,  this 
quietly-conducted  proceeding  aroused  a  violent  disturb- 
ance among  the  hoodlums  in  the  gallery — continuous 
until  it  caused  the  premature  dropping  of  the  curtain. 
Whereupon,  Mr.  Dean  appeared  at  the  foot-lights,  his 
appearance  receiving  the  clapping  of  hands  from  the 
pit.  But  the  usual  smile  did  not  beam  on  the  counte- 
nance of  Mr.  Dean,  it  having  an  earnest  cast.  Mr. 
Dean  began  talking  to  the  pit  as  a  whole,  reminding 
the  boys  of  his  friendly  action  in  providing  for  their 
amusement  and  comfort,  and  then,  fixing  his  eyes  on 
the  culprits  sitting  in  a  row,  requested  them  to  lay 
aside  the  disturbing  elements  that  the  performance 
might  proceed  without  interruption.  The  kindly  man- 
ner of  Mr.  Dean  subdued  the  boys  unto  contrition, 
whereupon  the  guilty  cucumbers  were  cast  aside  and 
order  was  resumed. 

Performance  at  the  theatre  was  suspended  during 
the  close  of  lake  navigation,  when  the  pit  would  be 
floored  over,  and  which,  with  the  stage,  formed  a  com- 


o 


SKETCHES. 


109 


modious  dancing  arena.  Here  public  balls  were  held 
during  the  winter  season.  On  Franklin  street  resided 
a  family  named  Postle,  whose  daughters  were  noted 
for  their  comeliness,  and  also  as  expert  dancers,  and 
who  were  frequent  in  attendance  at  the  balls.  The 
late  Judge  Talcott,  then  active,  was  usual  in  attend- 
ance— fond  of  the  recreation. 

At  the  time  was  clandestinely  published  The  Old 
Corporal,  a  weekly  journal,  7  by  9  in  size,  which  on 
the  street  met  with  ready  sale,  its  columns  giving  high- 
wrought  reports  of  scenes  at  the  balls,  and  which,  on 
an  occasion,  included  the  verse : 

"  What  Tall-outs  he  made  when  attempting  to  wing, 
And  an  Apostle  could  waltz  as  if  Fanny  had  lent  her — 
Her  heels  for  the  evening  to  whirl  in  the  ring." 

The  Old  Coiporal  was  the  sensation  of  the  town, 
until  its  publishers  were  smoked  out — a  brace  of  prin- 
ters engaged  on  the  Express.  The  veteran  dispenser 
of  billiards,  Darwin  A.  Slaght,  was  then  an  expert  typo, 
and  a  co-perpetrator.  His  present  sedate  presentment 
denies  the  impeachment.     Pei'ish  the  thought ! 

In  the  fall  of  1839,  a  full  year  prior  to  the  election, 
a  Whig  National  Convention  assembled  at  Harrisburg, 
Pa.,  and  nominated  presidential  candidates:  William 
Henry  Harrison,  for  President,  and  John  Tyler,  for 
Vice-President.  In  May,  1840,  a  Democratic  National 
Convention  convened  at  Baltimore,  Md.,  where  Martin 
Van  Buren  was  noniinated  for  i-e-election  as  President. 
Subsequently    the    Democratic    National    Committee 


.■i;«gSii**W'trf'Ss^i'v*fry»>^»*iS-i'^^ 


•r^^i  ;siit  i.-i,  ^//--yos  •-  ■ 


110 


MODERN     ANTIQUITIES. 


placed  Richard  M.  Johnson  on  their  ticket  for  Vice- 
President,  and  then  the  trouble  commenced — the  log- 
cabin,  hard-cider,  coon-skin  campaign  for  Tippecanoe 
and  Tyler  too — and  the  fur  flew  and  the  liquid  flowed 
until  the  closing  of  the  polls  in  November. 

It  was  really  a  picnic  campaign,  a  season  of  festivity, 
revelry  and  song,  whei-eby  General  Harrison  was  virtu- 
ally f.ung  into  the  White  House.  Apparently,  the 
chief  issue  involved  was  the  oft-repeated  inquiry : 
"  What  has  caused  this  great  commotion — motion — 
motion — the  country  through  ?  "  and  which  the  singers 
themselves  invariably  answered  in  another  line:  "  It  is 
the  ball  a  rolling  on  for  Tippecanoe  and  Tyler  too ; " 
and  to  which  in  gracious  assurance  ♦^d  their  opponents 
they  added  :  "  And  with  them  we'll  beat  little  Van — 
Van,  Van  is  a  used-up  man."  The  song  was  universal, 
like  marching  through  Georgia,  sung  by  marching 
thousands  of  men,  women  and  children.  The  center  of 
gravity  for  the  Whig  campaigners  of  Buffalo  was  the 
"  Log  Cabin,"'  located  for  the  time  on  the  then  vacant 
lot  on  the  northeast  corner  of  Main  and  Eagle  streets. 
The  cabin  was  a  typical  back-woods  structure,  the  ex- 
terior decorated  with  grub-hoes,  brush-hooks*  ox-yokes, 
hanging  scythes,  gourds,  crooked-necked  squashes, 
bunches  of  corn-in-the-ear,  coon-skins  nailed  on  flesh- 
side  out,  and  other  articles  traditional  to  pioneer  in- 
dustry. At  the  Log  Cabin  open  house  to  all  comers 
was  maintained  during  the  canvass — barrels  of  cider 
constantly  on  tap,  and  open  barrels  of  apples,  gratis  to 


'■^*'tf^iai^i^ 


;  .  :■ 


■.!',■  I 


.'^!^'!i-  -^i^S^  .■H#sa^vs?4j»^%-.>-''      '~-^^'i>J^Mhf»it6iv^^^'af'^^it:>K^'^^Ji;^i^»i^3!^£M^'' 


112 


MODERN     ANTIQUITIES. 


\ 


all  who  wonltl  join  the  chorus.  We  boys  would  gather 
at  the  cabin  to  hear  the  great  crowd  of  men  there 
assembled  sing : 

"The  beautiful  girlH,  Ood  bless  tbeir  oouls — 
Souls — souls — the  country  through  ; 
They  will  to  a  man  do  all  they  can 
For  Tippecanoe  and  Tyler  too." 

The  incongruity  in  the  third  line  impressed  the 
verse  upon  my  youthful  simplicity,  permanent  in  mem- 
ory for  the  half  century  and  more  intervening. 

The  Buffalo  Historical  Society  preserves  a  faithful 
presentment  of  the  historic  Log  Cabin. 

In  point  of  numbers  in  attendance,  and  in  its  varied 
and  unique  features,  the  Whig  Mass  Meeting  at  Buf- 
falo, November  7,  1840,  was  the  most  notable  political 
gathering  that  ever  before  assemble<l  in  Western  New 
York.  The  celebration  of  the  "  Battle  of  the  Thames," 
with  their  candidate  the  alleged  hero,  brought  to 
Buffalo  nt;arly  all  the  adult  male  ))opulation  of  the 
surrounding  country.  Thousands  came  in  steamboat- 
loads  from  the  southern  borders  of  Lake  Erie.  Buffalo, 
then  a  presumptive  little  city,  tripled  its  population  in 
a  day,  and  its  territory  was  not  sufficient  to  contain  the 
long  processions  marching  behind  bands  of  music, 
extending  into  the  adjoining  towns  of  Black  Rock  and 
Cheektowaga.  The  common  rendezvous  and  rostrum'^ 
for  the  meeting  were  on  the  commons  south  of  High 
street,  where  now  are  rows  of  ret;idences  on  upper  Oak, 
Elm   and   Michigan   streets.     Thomas   C.  Love   was 


■M 


SKETCHES.  113 

president  of  the  day,  assisted  by  numerous  vice-presi- 
dents, among  whom  were  Seth  C.  Hawley,  Edwin 
Hurlbut,  Daniel  Bowen,  Clark  Robinson,  C.  C.  Had- 
dock and  Warren  Granger.  Dr.  Haddock  was  ap- 
pointe<i  Postmaster  of  Buffalo  the  following  year. 
In  1849,  when  performing  his  duty  as  chairman  '  the 
Board  of  Health,  he  was  stricken  with  cholera,  then 
epidemic  in  Buffalo,  and  died.  Dr.  Haddock  was  an 
estimable  citizen,  public-spirited  and  enterprising,  and 
his  untimely  death  was  universally  regretted. 

At  daybreak,  on  a  Fourth  of  July  morning  in  the 
early  forties,  the  writer,  with  other  boys,  was  hasten- 
ing down-town,  to  Court  House  Square  (Lafayette 
Park),  there  to  celebrate  by  extracting  all  the  noise 
possible  from  the  festive  firecracker.  When  passing 
through  Mohawk  street  to  Washington  street,  on  the 
sidewalk  in  front  of  the  Congregational  Church,  we 
saw  two  negroes  engaged  in  a  loud  quarrel.  As  we 
approached  one  of  them  stabbed  the  other  with  a 
dirk-knife,  the  blade  penetrating  his  heart.  The  victim 
dropped  to  the  sidewalk,  over  which  his  blood  streamed 
to  the  gutter.  This  was  the  murder  of  James  Massey 
by  John  Davis,  for  which  Davis  was  hanged  in  the 
yard  of  the  old  jail,  a  stone's  throw  from  the  scene  of 
his  crime,  and  simultaneously  from  the  scaffold  with 
McElroy,  who  murdered  Rapp,  tlie  German  farmer,  in 
the  town  of  Boston. 

The  first  cross-walk  laid  in  Buffalo  was  across  Main 
street,  midway  between   the  Terrace  and  Seneca,  in 


■ffiS^Mmmi 


r'-'vi(  ;--ri  %*43hjvt3i-'i»-*=f.!*s4*.A»t"«.*»fe^?*i*a***'i'*!i*it^S 


114 


MODKHN     ANTlgnriEM. 


1828,  by  Josiali  Ik-aHlHlev.  Tl>e  Hrst  pavement  was 
laid  in  188»;,  on  NIain  corner  of  Krie  street,  Benjamin 
Uatlil>un  ordering  it  laid  as  a  sample.  It  consisted  of 
wooden  Itloeks,  nine  inches  scpmre,  which  extended 
u\}  al)out  half-way  across  Erie  street  an<l  half-way 
across  Main  street.  This  Idoek  of  pavement  was  for 
several  years  th;  ifter  an  oasis  in  a  sea  of  nmd,  prev- 
ahnit  dnring  spri  ig  and  fall. 

( )lder  citizens  of  Hnflfalo  will  recall  the  mnnieipal 
snn-dial,  erected  im    Main   street,  west  side,  between 
Church  and  Niagara  streets.     It  was  a  structure  difli- 
cult  to  describe,  looking  more   like  a   huge   inverted 
plow  than    anything   else,  and    not   much   like   that. 
The    thing   was   daubed    over    with    hieroglyphics,  as 
if  of  Egyptian  origin,  lined  with  marks  and  counter- 
marks, to  allow  the  sun  to  cast  shades  and  reveal  the 
Iwmr  of  day  to  the  astronomieally  e«lucated.     It  was 
of  but  little  use  to  them,  and  of  no  use  whatever  to 
anyone  else.     However,  it  was  the  source  of   amuse- 
ment fro  many,  being  subjected  to  the  jests  of  the  fiui- 
makers  of  the  town  at  the  expense  of  the  Board  of 
Aldermen,  who  ordered  its  construction  at  the  cost  of 
the  tax-payers  to  the  amount  of  several  hundred  dol- 
lars.    It  had  not  been   in  place  a  week   before   the 
all-around  wag,  Fred  Emmons,  had  a  farmer's  load  of 
hay  alongside  to  be  weighed  at  a  reduced  price.     Fred 
made  ajjplication  to  be  ^pjwinted  Keeper  of  the  Sun 
Dial,  unrolling  before  the  aldermen  in  session  a  "  uni- 
versal petition,"  both  sides  filled  with  names,  consisting 


IH'llt   waH 

ik'iiJHiiiiii 
iHiHttnl  of 
extt'n(l«Ml 
half-way 
t  WHH  for 
lud,  i>rev- 

iuinici]ml 
between 
tare  difli- 
inverted 
ike    that, 
r'phies,  as 
1  eounter- 
eveal  the 
.     It  was 
latever  to 
;)f  aniuHe- 
f  the  fun- 
Board  of 
he  cost  of 
idred  dol- 
lefore   the 
r's  load  of 
ice.     Fred 
f  the  San 
)n  a  "  uni- 
consisting 


SKKTCIIKH. 


Ufl 


of  the  city  directory,  the  leaves  cut  out  and  connected 
lengthwise.  His  memorial  promised  that  over  the  dial 
would  he  erected  a  shed  to  protect  it  from  the  sun  I 
Finally,  under  the  tlarkness  of  u'ght,  the  *'  what-was-it" 
cscai)ed,  ])roltaltly,  aide<l  hy  its  projectors.  The  His- 
torical Society  should  t  ndcuvor  to  discover  its  hiding- 
jdaee.  It  has  nothing  nu»re  facetiously  or  curiously 
iiistoric. 

*'  Not  siiM-e  the  tlood,"  was  an  exi)ression  often  used 
by  Hurt'alonians  when  citing  a  time  remote.  Not  to 
the  down-pour  of  Scripturt  did  they  refer,  but  to  the 
disastrous  inflow  of  the  waters  of  Lake  Krie  upon  the 
lower  lands  of  BntVah>,  October  18,  1844.  To  tliose 
participating  in  these  historic  events,  the  local  flood 
was  the  less  considerate,  giving  no  warning  to  its  vic- 
tims, but  instead  an  unheralded  avalanche  of  waters 
came  upon  a  sleeping  connnunity,  the  howling  tempest 
arousing  them  frcmi  their  slumbers  like  the  sKmnd  of  a 
Hre-ltell  at  night.  For  three  days  previous  to  tlu- 
flood  of  waters,  a  northeast  wind  had  been  continuous, 
driving  the  waters  of  the  lake  tipwards,  when  the  wind 
s\iddenly  shifted  to  the  ojjposite  direction  with  tre- 
mendous force,  bringing  with  it  a  flood  of  waters  to 
the  foot  of  the  lake,  greater  than  ever  before  or  since 
known,  inundating  the  lower  districts  of  Buft'alo,  de- 
molishing scores  of  dwellings  and  other  buildings, 
spreading  ruin  along  the  harbor  front,  playing  liavoc 
with  the  shipping,  and  causing  great  destruction  or  life. 
Not  until  the  night  of  the  19th  did  the  gale  abate  its 


-.,-jB*='  "",''1 ''  y^y^'X^i^ 


I! 


§1 


116 


MODERN     ANTIQUITIEB. 


vjdwity,  and  tlie  water  .  reomle.  The  rise  of  water  can 
be  imagined  from  the  fact  that  Itefore  the  Idow  the 
Hteamboat  ColtnnhiiH  waH  aground  in  the  river  at  the 
foot  of  Indiana  street,  and  when  the  waters  receded 
the  steamboat  was  left  behind  on  ( )hio  street. 

The  adult  male  population  of  the  city  were  active 
in  the  rescue  of  the  imperiled  and  providing  relief  for 
the  suffering  during  tiie  early  morning  and  through 
the  day.  The  nuuiicipal  hall  over  the  Terrace  Market 
was  thronged  with  agonized  people  scanning  bodies 
of  the  drowned  as  they  were  brought  in,  fearfully 
expectant  of  discovering  missing  friends  whom  they 
hoped  might  be  somewhere  in  life.  A  like  scene  was 
at  the  court-house,  where  the  bodies  of  the  dead  lay 
in  rows  awaiting  identification.  There  strong  men 
were  moaning  over  the  inanimate  bodies  of  wives 
and  children,  while  mothers  and  children  were  weej)- 
ing  over  the  dead  botlies  of  male  members  of  their 
families. 

In  the  memory  of  the  writer  the  arrival  of  that  ter- 
rific first  blast  of  wind  remains  vivi«l.  He  was  sleeping 
in  the  upjier  room  of  a  house  then  and  now  standing 
on  North  Main  street,  in  a  room  comprising  the  length 
and  breadth  of  the  front  portion  of  the  house.  The 
first  blast  carried  the  sash  of  the  west  end  window 
bodily  against  the  east  wall  of  the  room  near  the  head 
of  the  bed,  shattering  the  glass  into  a  thousand  frag- 
ments. He  has  ever  since  been  unable  to  recall  his 
sensation  on  being  thus  violently  awakened,  other  than 


HKETCHKH. 


117 


a  vagiio  realization  of  kingdom  come — nomething  of 
that  im]>ort. 

Mon  wlio  saw  the  initial  wave  invade  lower  Main 
and  Commercial  streets,  stated  that  it  rolled  up  and 
|ioured  into  the  canal  with  roaring  sound.  At  the 
corner  of  Main  and  Ohio  streets  thei-e  was  a  'lepth  of 
six  feet  of  water,  and  of  four  feet  at  !'.»change  and 
Michigan  streets.  All  territory  on  the  level  of  outer 
Exchange  street  was  alike  inundated.  Many  harbor 
i'vah  were  left  distant  from  their  element  when  the 
waters  receded.  The  flat  lands  southeast  of  the  city 
were  strewn  with  wreckage.  For  the  second  time 
the  steamboats  CohiinlntH  and  Chautauqua  required 
launching  into  the  waters  of  the  lake.  Published 
details  told  of  many  providential  escapes  and  timely 
rescues.  Over  the  river  near  the  shijvyard  were  two 
families,  each  consisting  of  parents  and  one  child,  liv- 
ing in  houses  adjoining.  To  escape  the  rising  waters, 
both  families  took  refuge  on  the  roof  of  the  stancher 
building,  where  they  saw  the  other  crumble  and  float 
away  with  all  it  contained.  Soon  after  the  house  on 
which  they  were  perched  collapsed  and  floated  off  with 
the  floo<l,  the  six  human  souls  clinging  to  the  floating 
roof.  Not  until  seven  o'clock  that  morning  were  they 
taken  off  their  raft  by  rescuers  in  yawl-boats,  and  after 
floating  more  than  a  mile  away  on  a  frail  float  amid 
the  rush  of  waters  and  howling  tempest. 

M.  W.  Dayton,  brother  of  the  ex-mayor,  with  his 
family,  resided  in  a  cottage  on  South  Division  street, 


'9i:jfimi'.iiM:'i^^l^^^!^^i^: 


% 


.v.^XSfe?^SSiaK»^Ji!SiE:;£ft«6i:-i 


35.iSMMtoMaH«MI»iiWIM»^rtilM»i»i 


118 


MODERN     ANTIQUITIES. 


his  house  standing  alongside  of  a  new  three-story  brick 
jtructure  then  under  construction.  Becoming  alarmed 
at  the  rattling  of  falling  debris  upon  the  roof  of  his 
house,  Mr.  Dayton  aroused  his  family  to  take  them 
to  a  place  of  safety.  Just  as  they  passed  out  the 
front  gate,  the  brick  wall  fell  upon  and  crushed  the 
cottage. 

A.  S.  Carpenter  and  family  were  taken  into  a  boat 
from  the  garret  window  of  their  dwelling  on  Jackson 
street  ill  the  early  morning,  just  in  time  to  save  them 
from  a  collapsed  building  and  floating  wreckage.  The 
evening  before  the  great  blow,  the  steamboats  Saint 
Louis,  Rol:rt  Fulton,  Julia  Palmer,  Chautauqua, 
and  Indian  Queen,  left  Buffalo  with  their  usual  com- 
plement of  passengers.  The  Saint  Louis  encountered 
the  tempest  alreast  of  Dunkirk,  and  when  essaying 
to  breast  it,  broke  her  shaft,  and,  paying  into  the 
troughs  of  tlie  sea,  four  men  were  washed  overboard 
and  lost.  Aided  by  a  stay-sail  and  jib,  the  steamer 
drifted  before  the  wind  and  was  carried  down  Niagara 
River,  when  Captain  Haggart,  with  his  ferry  boat, 
came  and  assisted  the  disabled  steamer  to  a  landing  at 
the  foot  of  Ferry  street. 

After  having  three  people  washed  overboard,  the 
steamboat  liobert  Fulton  was  piled  upon  the  beach 
above  Stony  Point.  The  Chautauqua  was  driven 
high  and  dry  on  the  sand  beach  at  the  foot  of 
Hudson  street. 


,i^i^t^m^m.:^^ 


iM 


-story  brick 
ng  alarmed 
roof  of  his 
take  them 
ed  out  the 
crushed  the 

into  a  boat 
on  Jackson 
0  save  them 
ikage.  The 
joats  iSaint 
Uiautauqua, 
?  usual  com- 
encountered 
en  essaying 
ig  into  the 
i  overboard 
the  steamer 
)wn  Niagara 

ferry  boat, 
a  landing  at 

?rboard,  the 
n  the  beach 
was  driven 
the   foot   of 


SKETCHES. 


119 


The  Indian  Queen,  a  bonnie  little  steamboat,  was 
tho  only  one  of  the  outgoing  fleet  that  succeeded  in 
making  Buffalo  harbor  on  their  return.  Like  a  hog 
in  a  mire,  she  came  wallowing  in  the  huge  seas  directly 
to  its  entrance. 

The  Julia  Palmer,  with  her  three  hundred  passen- 
gers, was  blown  helplessly  down  the  lake  to  a  point  in 
the  bay  opposite  the  foot  of  Main  street,  where  her 
anchors  held,  and  where  she  pitched  and  rolled  all  the 
live-long  day  in  a  manner  fearful  to  behold.  On  the 
morning  of  the  20th,  a  relief  boat  assisted  her  into 
the  harbor,  greatly  to  the  relief  of  her  terrorized  pas- 
sengers and  worn-out  crew. 

The  steamboat  Jtilia  Palmer,  a  historic  vessel,  built 
by  a  historic  citizen,  at  a  historic  period,  and  namert 
for  a  historic  Buffalo  matron,  lies  imbedded  in  the 
sands  of  a  Lake  Superior  beach.     Peace  to  her  ashes ! 


i: 


"r^;-  !?:«^;KSBS?jSaS«Psiw3*SSiS?! 


120 


MODERN     ANTIQUITIES. 


CHAPTER    IX. 


It  was  an  August  day  in  1849 ;  Buffalo  was  over- 
spread with  gloom,  owing  to  the  ravage  of  Asiatic 
cholera.  An  alarm  of  fire  came  from  the  First  Ward. 
A  factory  building  was  burning  away  out  Perry  street. 
In  gooti  time  Fulton  Fire  Company  No.  3  came  out  of 
West  Seneca  street,  wheeling  downward  into  Main 
street,  just  in  time  to  encounter  Red  Jacket  No.  6,  and 
then  the  trouble  commenced — a  run  to  the  fire.  All 
old  volunteers  will  recall  the  wild  clamor  attendant 
upon  such  a  contest  between  old-time  fire  companies ; 
even  more  exciting  and  picturesque  than  the  galloping 
of  horses  through  the  streets  of  the  present.  On  that 
occasion.  ■»  was  a  victory  for  No.  3  over  their  most 
active  rivals  in  the  department,  and  to  them  a  cause 
for  hilarious  congratulation. 

When  No.  3  reached  the  fire,  Mayor  Hiram  Barton 
was  there  standing  in  an  open  carriage,  having  been 
on  a  visit  to  the  locality  on  sanitary  inspection.  The 
rear  yard  was  inclosed  with  a  high  board  fence. 
The  mayor  shouted :  "  Foreman  Reed,  can  your  boys 
jump  over  that  fence?"  "My  boys  can  jump  over 
anywhere,  Mr.  Mayor !  "  was  the  reply  of  as  good  a 
fireman  as  was  ever  known  to  Buffalo. 


SKETCHES. 


121 


Then  the  pipemen  were  lifted  to  where  they  could 
grasp  the  top,  and  over  the  fence  they  went,  and  soon 
two  streams  were  penetrating  the  rear  openings  of  the 
burning  building,  while  with  the  rest  of  the  company 
it  was,  "shake  her  up,  boys,"  until  the  little  piano 
engine  rocked  like  a  jolly-boat  in  the  surf. 

On  the  home  march,  it  was  evening  twilight  when 
No.  3  wheeled  out  of  Perry  into  Main  street,  where, 
in  full  company,  they  "  spread  out,"  and  all  gave  voice 
to  the  sons:  of  the  marching  firemen.  On  that  occa- 
sion the  verses  wore  chorused  thus: 

"  We  are  the  boys  who  can  run  to  the  front, 
And  jump  over  anywhere  '. 
It's  our  delight,  any  sort  of  a  night, 
All  seasons  of  the  year." 

The  hilarious  march  up  the  desolate  street  dispelled 
the  gloom  for  the  time,  the  singing  bringing  the  people 
out  on  to  the  sidewalks  in  goodly  numbers. 

It  was  often  remarked  that  among  the  residents  of 
earlv  Buffalo  there  were  a  number  whose  characteristics 
were  remarkably  peculiar.  A  score  of  such — now  of 
the  past — could  be  named.  Among  this  class  was  John 
K.  Tucker,  the  whilom  proprietor  of  Tucker's  Hotel, 
on  Exchange  street.  Mr.  Tucker  was  a  rare  combina- 
tion of  assumption  and  vocal  energy.  Mr.  Tucker 
had  other  characteristics,  among  which  was  a  conceit 
that  he  excelled  in  horsemanship.  That  he  was  a  mas- 
ter of  arts  and  parts  of  which  the  animal  is  often  the 
subject,  was   generally  conceded.     Early  during   the 


-■,*??*SS.«S!(»|l#gil-' 


,«;i»Is3r.»EL<j«f/K!rsWT 


122 


MODERN     ANTIQUITIES, 


civil  war,  Mr.  Tucker  was  a  contractor  to  supply  army 
horses,  and  to  him  I  sold  a  pair  designed  for  artillery 
service.  When  paying  for  them,  Mr.  Tucker  said  to 
me,  "By  the  way — I  want  to  show  you  a  good  horse 
for  you  to  buy."  At  his  stables  a  serviceable  appear- 
ing animal  was  led  out.  Mr.  Tucker  remarked,  "This 
horse  we  bought  of  a  farmer  in  Hamburg,  but  the 
inspector  rejected  him,  because  of  this  wind-gall  on 
his  ankle,  which  you  know  don't  hurt  him.  We  paid 
a  hundred  for  him ;  he  is  in  our  way ;  take  him  along 
at  eighty."  After  clo,se  ins])ection,  I  said  to  Mr. 
Tucker,  that  if  the  horse  was  a  good  worker  I  would 
take  him.  "  He  is  all  right ;  we  have  tried  him."  said 
Mr.  Tucker.  I  then  paid  Mr.  Tucker  eighty  dollars, 
and  the  horse  was  transferred  to  my  stable.  The 
next  morning,  when  a  harness  was  thrown  upon  him, 
he  kicked  viciously  with  both  feet,  and  so  continued  to 
vibrate  until  the  menial  ai)pliance  was  removed  from 
his  lordly  presence,  thus  evincing  that  he  had  more  gall 
than  was  contaired  in  the  puff  on  his  ankle.  Being 
aware  that  his  late  owner  was  well  suppHea  with  the 
bitter  couunodity,  redress  was  deemed  hopeless. 

A  few  days  thereafter  an  agent  of  Mr.  Tucker, 
named  Peters,  arrived  from  Canada  with  a  car-load  of 
horses.  Mr.  Peters  was  then  assigned  to  canvass  the 
home  market,  with  rolls  of  greenbacks  in  hin  pockets. 
It  was  thought  a  good  scheme  to  intercept  Mr.  Peters. 
Acting  on  the  inspiration,  I  was  soon  in  his  wake,  and 
in  good  time  sighted  the  buyer  at  the  Cold   Spring 


SKETCHES. 


123 


tavern.     "Ha.afinish"  Clark  was   the  landlord,  and 
with  him  I  had  a  private  interview,  and  then  hastened 
homeward.     In  gootl  time  "  Hardfinish  "  informetl  Mr. 
Peters  that  he  knew  where  there  was  a  horse  for  sale 
that  would  make  a  good  mount  for  an  army  officer. 
Mr.  Peters  was  interested.     "  Hardfinish  "  would  locate 
the  animal  under  conditions.     These  being  arranged, 
the  worthies  drove  to  my  stable,  where  the  horse  with 
a  wind-gall  on  his  ankle  was  inspected.     Mr.  Peters 
seemed  pleased,  and  suggested  a  saddle.     He  was  in- 
formed that  a  saddle  was  not  available,  but  that  Mr. 
Tucker  knew  me,  and  that  I  would  guarantee  the  horse 
a  bold  actor— a  veritable  war-horse.     Mr.  Peters  was 
desirons  to  obtain  the  horse  for  ten  dollars  less  than 
my  price— one  hundred  dollars.     Finally,  Mr.  Peters 
paid  me  ninety  dollars  and  led  the  horse  away,  covertly 
handing  "Hardfinish"  a  ten-dollar  note.      The  next 
morning  Mr.  Peters  returned,  leading  the  horse  with 
a   wind-gall   on   his   aakle.      Mr.  Peters  stated  that 
Mr.  Tucker  didn't  want  that  horse.    Mr.  Peters  further 
remarked  that  he  did  want  me  to  return  to  him  ninety 
dollars  paid  to  me  the  day  before.     Mr.  Peters  was 
advised  that  his  petition  would  be  placed  on  file.     He 
was   requested    to   present    my   compliments   to   Mr. 
Tucker,  and  say  that  when  having  a  horse  he  didn't 
want,  the  proper  thing  was  to  sell  him— if  he  could, 
but  that  I  did  not  desire  to  purchase— not  that  day. 

When  again  meeting  Mr.  Tucker  he  was  agitated. 
His  language  was  plain,  but  undignified.     He  seemed 


•"» -itftasietsiiiasswf " 


.«3sSai£3BSi^ttSK»»aK?S!W!& 


i' 


I 


124 


MODERN     ANTIQUITIES. 


: 


i, 


I 


hurt.  He  had  fired  his  battery  with  complacency,  but 
the  recoil  disconcerted  him.  Mr.  Tucker  was  reminded 
that  man  was  made  to  mourn. 

The  late  John  Pierce,  ex-Deputy  Sheriff,  Alderman, 
and  Police  Commissioner,  possessed  peculiar  charac- 
teristics. To  a  great  degree  quiet  and  unobstrusive  in 
manner,  yet  obtrusive  in  perpetrating  jokes  upon  his 
friends,  of  whom  there  were  many.  Between  Pierce 
and  George  B.  Efner  a  close  friendship  ever  existed. 
Both  wei-e  passionately  fond  of  animals — the  horse 
occupying  the  seat  of  honor,  and  both  were  ever  on 
the  lookout  for  promising  young  animals  at  a  low 
price,  that  they  might  develop  and  sell  for  a  high  price, 
and  of  this  industry  both  were  experts,  skilled  opera- 
tors and  rivals. 

One  day  when  George  was  alone  in  his  stable  office, 
John  drove  up,  that  being  his  horse-boarding  stable. 
Stepping  into  the  office  and  giving  George  a  slap  on 
the  shoulder,  he  remarked :  "  George,  my  boy,  I  know 
where  there  is  a  slick  one ;  he'll  make  your  eye  shine 
when  you  see  him.     I'm  going  to  gather  him  in,  too." 

In  the  team  of  a  farmer  on  the  hay  market  John 
discovered  a  young  horse  that  filled  his  eye,  and  at 
once  proceeded  to  interview  the  farmer.  Pointing  to 
the  mate  of  the  fancied  animal,  he  said :  "  You've  a 
good  horse  there?" 

"  Yes,"  said  the  farmer,  "  she's  a  good  old  mare. 
Do  you  want  to  buy  a  horse  ?  " 

"  No,"  said  John,  "  but  I  like  to  look  at  'em." 


■  ■'iii^'.:.-.9----,,'z.".j^-^.>-r.^:igV:-:'<-,~f-i":f"r--^i^^:^^^ 


SKETCHES. 


125 


"Take  a  look  at  the  one  on  the  other  side,"  said 
the  farmer. 

Tho  more  John  looked  at  him  the  better  he  liked 
him.     "  He  looks  fairly  well,"  said  John. 

"  Yes,  he's  an  extra  good  colt,  and  if  a  man  wants 
to  buy,  I'll  sell  cheap,  for  I  must  raise  some  money," 
said  the  farmer. 

"  What  do  you  hold  him  at?"  said  John. 

"One  hundretl  and  forty  dollars  will  buy  him," 
said  the  farmer. 

John  answered  this  with  a  significant  whistle.  In 
a  manner  unconcerned,  John  stepped  aside,  but  soon 
after  casually  offered  one  hundred  dollars  for  the  colt, 
which  offer  the  farmer  declined  to  accept,  and  then  this 
acute  interview  ended.  After  finding  out  from  another 
farmer  where  "  that  man  lived,"  John  drove  to  Efner's, 
when  the  scene  before  related  occurred. 

That  night  the  farmer's  colt  haunted  John's  sleep, 
and  the  next  day  he  thought  of  some  business  he  didn't 
have  in  the  town  of  Alden,  where  lived  the  farmer  who 
hail  a  horse  whose  owner  John  considered  failed 
to  appreciate  his  full  value.  The  next  morning  a 
couple  of  hours'  drive  brought  John  Pierce  to  a  farm 
house  in  Alden,  where  he  halted,  ostensibly  to  make 
an  inquiry.  There  John  was  surprised  to  find  the 
owner  of  the  young  horse  that  he  had  "no  use  for, 
but  liked  to  look  at."  After  some  irrelevant  talk, 
the  farmer  brought  the  colt  out  to  show  Mr.  Pierce 
his  action  when  turned  loose  in  a  paddock.     The  ex- 


PflS^S 


126 


MODKRN     ANTIQUITIES. 


hibition  increased  tJohn's  admiration  for  the  animal. 
Finally  he  renewed  hia  offer  of  one  hundred  dollars 
for  him. 

"  Can't  sell  him  for  that,  hut  I  want  money,  and  you 
ean  take  hin)  for  ■'S'125,"  said  Mr.  Brown. 

.lolm  shook  his  head,  as  he  walked  slowly  to  wliere 
his  horse  stood,  l>ut  faced  about  and  offered  to  split 
the  difference. 

"  Can't  hardly  do  that,"  said  Mr.  Brown. 

Then  flohn  entered  his  buggy  and  started  off  slowly, 
feeling  assured  that  he  would  be  called  bac^k ;  but  the 
call  came  not,  and  John  drove  home  feeling  sorry  that 
he  was  not  leading  the  coveted  colt  which  he  had  de- 
termined to  buy  in  any  event. 

At  Efner's  stable,  the  next  morning,  John  said  to 
George :  "  George,  my  boy,  I  am  going  to  Lockport 
to-day,  but  to-morrow  I'm  going  for  the  horse  I  told 
you  about.  IVIy  mare  is  a  little  lame,  and  the  road 
is  rather  heavy.  You  have  a  pair  hooked  up  for  me 
early  in  the  morning,  and  when  I  return  will  show  you 
something  that  will  please  you." 

Soon  after  a  load  of  hay  was  driven  to  Efner's 
stable  to  be  unloaded.  The  man  with  the  hay  said 
to  Efner: 

"  Who  was  that  man  talking  to  you  when  I  drove 
up?" 

"  Why,  that  was  John  Pierce,  the  deputy  sheriff, 
don't  you  know  him  ?  " 

"  No ;  but  I  saw  him  out  our  way  yesterday  trying 


.VV'W.'*»«Mifttli!M»SiillcaSSs*i**4<<^^ 


SKETCHES. 


127 


to  buy  a  horse  of  luy  neighbor,  Mr.  lirown,  but  they 
couWn't  make  a  trade." 

Then  George  was  interested. 

"What  sort  of  a  horse  is  it?" 

"Mighty  good  colt,  1  tell  you,  best  one  in  our 
town." 

This  information  was  nuts  and  wine  for  Efner,  and 
soon  after  he  was  on  his  way  to  Alden,  and  that  even- 
ing he  placed  a  young  horse  that  formerly  belonged  to 
farmer  Brown,  in  a  stall  of  his  stable — his  property. 
The  next  morning  John  promptly  appeared,  the  team 
was  ready,  and  off  he  went  after  Mr.  Brown's  colt. 
On  his  arrival  Mr.  Brown  was  in  front  of  his  house. 

"  Good  morning,"  said  John. 

"  (Tood  morning,  Sheriff,"  said  Mr.  Brown. 

"  Mr.  Brown,  I've  concluded  to  take  the  colt  at  your 
f!gur^.  Here's  your  money,  and  here's  a  leading-bridle 
to  put  on  him,"  said  Mi-.  Pierce. 

"What  are  you  driving  at?"  said  the  farmur. 
"  Why,  you've  got  the  horse  there,  on  the  off  side.  Mr. 
Efner  was  out  here  yesterday  and  bought  him." 

For  the  moment  John  Pierce  was  stunned,  and  when 
he  regained  his  breath  he  ejaculated,  "Holy  Ghost!" 
then  applying  the  whip,  the  horses  shot  out  as  if 
answering  a  fire-alarm.  On  the  way  home  John  was 
unable  to  solve  a  conundrum  by  himself  propounded : 
"  How  in  hades  did  George  Efner  learn  of  that  horse?" 
When  John  reached  the  city  it  occurred  to  him  that 
his  business  down-town  was  not  pressing,  so  he  gave 


I 


i! 


I 


Is 


^vs^iTsmsfH' 


;«te*Wi**tea«a^' 


«x'*ssRf^  in'mm&iea^s&'aSi'xaas^&S^msiSXS^^ 


128 


MODKKN    ANTigurriES. 


t)ie  team  to  a  ])oli(;einan  to  drive  to  Efner'H  ntaMe. 
When  the  frieiulH  next  met  (ieorge  anked : 

"  John,  didn't  you  get  the  horse  ?  " 

"  No,"  Haid  tlohn.  "  I  discovered  a  nice  little  npavin 
growing  on  his  hin<l  leg,  and  made  up  my  mind  that 
tlohn  Pierce  didn't  want  him." 

"  Ah,  ha  I  Hmarty.  Yoji  had  better  get  that  spavin 
out  of  your  eye,  it  might  lame  you,"  replied  George. 

Many  old  Buffalonians  will  recall  a  quiet,  cross- 
eyed little  sport  named  Isaiah  Smith,  who  was  wont 
to  parade  the  streets,  tvirling  his  cane.  Occasionally 
Isaiah  would  drop  into  the  saloon  on  West  Huron 
street.  Kept  by  (ieorge  Sherwood,  the  well-known  singer, 
police  constable  and  horseman.  On  the  end  of  the 
counter  stood  a  glass  globe,  nearly  filled  tvith  water, 
ti»e  home  of  two  little  gold-fish.  The  door  stood 
oj»en  one  day,  when  Isaiah  softly  stepped  in  and 
peeked  into  the  glass  globe.  Taking  the  tail  of  a  fish 
between  his  thumb  and  finger,  he  raised  and  deftly 
dropped  the  tiny  creature  into  his  mouth,  and  down  his 
throat  it  went.  Observing  the  disappearance  of  his 
pet  fish,  Sherwood  said,  angrily :  "  You  had  better 
swallow  the  other  one."  No  sooner  said  than  done, 
when  Isaiah  coolly  lit  a  cigar  and  passed  out,  twirling 
his  cane  as  he  went.  Sherwoo<1  was  mad  as  a  wet  hen, 
but  said  nothing  more  to  Isaiah,  he  being  quite  handy 
with  the  pistol  when  attacked.  In  partaking  of  the 
free  lunch  not  a  word  was  uttered  by  the  luncher. 


*iH-- -^r^^:-^  s_"-,  .-i'-f. 


.^f=WP,--!»jSSn^i^«g45t»aii^ti:S»'?S*fe»*  * 


r^-  ^:W^:-iniM  ll^^^jl^g^- 


SKETCH  KH.  125) 

During  the  decade  of  the  thirtieH,  before  telegraph 
line**  were  known,  horse-HteaHng  whh  reduced  to  a 
Mcienee  in  Western  New  York.  A])pro])riating  and 
running  aninialH  over  the  Niagara  into  Canada,  was  an 
industry  suceessfully  proseeuteil  by  bohl  oj^ratorH, 
whose  frecpient  depredations  were  such  a  burden  and 
annoyance  to  the  citizens,  that  protective  assmfiations 
were  organized  in  the  several  conununities,  consisting 
of  troops  of  mounted  men,  to  pursue  and  recover 
stolen  horses,  and  capture  the  thieves.  These  com- 
panies held  themselves  in  readiness  for  duty  at  the  call 
of  their  cimimander,  in  the  manner  of  the  historic 
"minute  men,"  all  su|)erbly  mounted,  and  otherwise 
well  found  for  continuous  pursuit.  However,  these 
troopers  were  often  unsuccessful  in  their  pursuits,  in 
coping  with  the  cunning  thieves,  who,  fox-like,  had 
convenient  holes  of  refuge  by  day,  then  to  flee  the 
country  by  night.  The  pursued  held  the  advantage 
of  their  pursuers  in  being  familiar  with  the  routes 
taken,  thus  enabling  a  flight  unobserved  by  sleeping 
comnumities ;  in  being  well  mounted,  as  stjperior  ani- 
mals only  were  by  them  appropriated,  all  of  which 
facilitated  escape.  Thus  trails  were  lost  and  captures 
prevented. 

The  local  troop  was  a  superior  organization,  excep- 
tionally well  mounted,  and  otherwise  equipped  for 
efficient  service.  The  following  were  among  the  num- 
ber: Samuel  R.  Atkins,  of  Buffalo  Plains,  com- 
mander; William  C.  Brown,  William  Holt  and  Sam- 


.J! 


'ill 
1 1 


mt» 


180  MODKHN     ANTigrniKH. 

iM'l  Klt«y,  of  Miiffalo  PlaiiiH;  John  8.  King,  A«lHni 
Kinewalt  and  T.  S.  IKipkinH,  of  AnihciHt;  William 
Win;  and  Jacob  Schell,  of  Tonawanda ;  Micliai'l 
Shnltz,  Vincent  KogeiH  and  JanicH  Sad«ller,  of  CJlarcncc 
The  writer  recalls  a  dreHH  parade  of  tluH  tniop  on 
lUiffalo  I'lainH  and  the  adn '  -'tion  he  had  for  the 
array  of  cavaliers,  their  eijuipnu^nt  and  evolntions. 

A  short  time  after  the  parade,  a  paradoxical  event 
oci-nrred,  the  theft  of  a  valuable  pair  of  mares  from 
the  cimunander  of  the  trooj),  which  were  not  recovered, 
notwithstanding  the  country  was  traversed  far  and 
wide  in  their  pursuit.  N«)t  a  trace  was  obtaine<l  of 
horses  or  thieves  beyond  LeKoy,  where  they  break- 
fasted the  morning  after  the  theft.  The  prpetrators 
of  the  bold  venture  were  a  brace  ot  exprts  named 
Ambrose  and  Joe  liois.  When  at  home  the  Bois 
brothers  were  at  the  house  of  their  mother  in  Buffalo, 
on  the  north  side  of  Court  street,  between  Main  and 
I'earl  streets. 

Five  years  later,  January,  1840,  the  sheriff  was 
advised  that  And)rose  Bois  was  secretly  visiting  his 
mother  and  measures  were  taken  for  his  arrest.  He 
was  known  to  be  a  desiierate  character  when  at  bay, 
and  due  precaution  was  observed.  A  watch  was  placed 
on  the  house,  and  when  night  ('ame  a  raid  was 
made  and  the  culprit  captured  and  placed  in  jail.  At 
the  March  Term  of  Oyer  and  Terminer  he  was  con- 
victed Of  the  theft  and  sentenced  to  five  years  at 
Auburn.     Joe  Bois  evaded  arrest  for  this  crime,  but 


:: 


>^t-*iW.»s---'--?-Bfc5-i 


"ikU^K^'ttAoil^-  ■ 


■*•■ 


g,   Atluiii 
Wiiliain 
MicliHfl 
C'lan'm-*'. 
trtHtp  oil 
for   the 
tioiiH. 
(•Ill  event 
ircH  from 
rt'foveretl, 
far   and 
>taine4l  of 
ey  lueak- 
rpetratorH 
rtH  named 
the    I^iH 
II  Buffalo, 
Main  and 

leritt"  waH 
siting  hiH 
rrest.  He 
m  at  bay, 
was  placed 
raid  was 
1  jail.  At 
e  was  cou- 
}  years  at 
crime,  but 


HKETCIIKR. 


181 


in  frrai;iouH  comiHMiMation  ended   his  life  in  the  Ohio 
|H'nitentiary. 

S|>eediiig  liorseH  on  the  snow-path  was  an  old-time 
winter  aniUHement  in  Huifalo.  The  scenes  attendant 
on  early  o4>easions,  tirst  on  Main  and  then  on  Delaware 
street,  are  now  refieated  on  Richmond  Avenue.  New 
Year's  Day  in  ye  olden  time  was  celebrated  in  social 
reunions — out  sleighing  in  huge  sleighs  drawn  by  four 
and  six  horses,  decorated  with  phimes  and  Hags,  which, 
together  with  hundreds  of  smaller  turn-outs,  (tonstituted 
a  carnival  of  g(MMl  cheer — a  day  of  jubilee.  But  the 
actors  in  the  old  comedies  have  in  the  main  disap- 
peared. M«Klern  atftors  may  be  interested  in  the 
rehearsal  of  a  scene  presented  on  Delaware  avenue 
forty-iive  years  ago: 

Time,  .fanuary  1,  1864. 

The  writer,  with  horse  and  sleigh  at  Main  and 
Seneca  streets,  espies  an  acquaintance  on  the  walk,  a 
resident  «)f  an  adjacent  village,  hurrying  up-town. 

"  Hello,  George !     Whither  are  you  drifting  ?  " 

"  Going  up  to  Stevenson's  to  get  a  rig — want  to  see 
the  trottei-s." 

"Just  so.  Get  in  here  under  this  robe,  I'll  show 
you  the  circus." 

"  All  right.  Here  I  am  ;  now  proceed.  But  we'll 
need  some  cigars.  Pull  up  at  Boas's  and  I'll  skip  in 
and  get  some." 

The  cigars  were  lighted  and  the  drive  was  to  Niagara 


N 


I 


w'-: 


f^-ff 


'^ 


132 


MODERN     ANTIQUITIES. 


Square,  where  we  found  Delaware  avenue  filled  with 
turn-outs. 

"  Here  we  are  in  the  midst  of  them.  Now  we'll  join 
the  procession  and  see  how  people  enjoy  cold  feet  and 
blue  noses." 

My  companion  was  all  observant. 
"  That's  a  nice  old  gentleman  with  that  big  chestnut, 
who's  he?" 

"  That's  Jacob  8.  Miller  and  '  Old  Captain  '—man 
and  horse — both  are  captains." 

"  Jerush !  That's  a  nobby  establishment,  horses  and 
sleigh,  with  colored  plumes." 

"  Yes ;  that's  A.  D.  Patchin,  the  banker.  The  large 
man  on  the  rear  seat  is  Asa  B.  Meech.  Both  have  the 
horse  distemper." 

"Here's  a  fine  horse.  Who's  the  driver  with  fur 
cap,  collar  and  gloves  ?  " 

»  That's  Chandler  Wells ;  he,  too,  has  the  disease." 
"  That's  a  fine  pair— that  sorrel  and  black,  hooked 
up  light.     Who's  the  airy  chap  driving  ' " 

"  Oh,  that's  West  India  Mills.  But  the  horses  are 
all  right—'  William  T.  Porter'  and  '  Belle  of  Saratoga.' 
They  can  road  a  thirty  clip.  The  man  in  furs  with  the 
brown  mare  is  Frederick  Gridley,  the  oroker.  The 
man  and  wife  in  the  Portland  are  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Arthur 
Fox.  The  lady  is  the  daughter  of  a  horseman  and 
inheritij  admiration  for  the  animal." 
"  Who  are  those  larks? " 


Kf 


til 


.f.'i*-:>.Ji;,2*y^^i=,4^.^^■^sS^*^«i^^ 


■  filled  with 

w  we'll  join 
Id  feet  and 


lig  chestnut, 

itain ' — man 

,  horses  and 

.  The  lai'ge 
[>th  have  the 

'ei'  with  fur 

bhe  disease." 
lack,  hooked 

le  horses  are 
)f  Saratoga.' 
Furs  with  the 
»roker.  The 
Mrs.  Arthur 
)rseinan  and 


SKETCHES. 


133 


"  Walter  Harris  and  George  Coburn,  and  the  mare 
h  the  trotter  '  Knownothing.'  Wait  till  you  see  them 
pass  through  with  the  gang.  It  will  make  you  hold 
your  cap  on." 

"  That  gray  pacer  is  a  dandy.  And  so  are  the  two 
sports  in  the  cutter,  I  should  say." 

"You've  guessed  it.  That's  Cart  Sawin  and  Ed. 
Blancan.  Their  gray  pony  can  melt  the  snow  when 
set  going.  The  man  in  the  plain  cutter  is  Jay  Petti- 
bone,  the  distiller.  His  horse  is  liable  to  be  speedy. 
That  tandem?  Why,  that's  Doctor  Gary,  and  he 
enjoys  it." 

"  Who's  the  fat  old  chap  on  the  rear  seat  of  that 
hack  sleigli?" 

"That's  Charles  Norton,  Buffalo's  Jack  Falstaft." 

"  lie  looks  as  if  he  loved  sack." 

"  You  bet." 

"  That  yellow  bay  is  a  good  stepper,  and  I  reckon 
the  driver  is  another." 

"  Yes,  yea,  right  you  are.  That's  Lanse  Thomas 
and  '  Canary  Bird.'     When  she  sings  he  jigs." 

"Can  he  dance?" 

"  Dance !  It  would  make  you  shed  tears  to  see  him 
sing  and  dance  '  Uncle  Snow' :  " 

"My  name  is  Uncle  Snow,  I  Lave  you  all  to  know, 
I's  (le  slickest  wid  de  brush  in  ^11  creation  ; 
•  I's  gwine  down  to  Washington  to  take  a  little  job, 

To  whitewash  all  dc  <'ree  nigs  in  de  nation." 


•'*S!K!5S!S?;^feWI^»B^te'-)WJ'a*«'''«'»'''«''i'«-'>™^ 


lU.W^J.^Lll^LlJimi 


■ai 


134 


MODERN     ANTIQUITIES. 


"  Who's  the  Russian  turn-out  ?  " 
"That's  Goodenough,  the  Exchange-street  broker; 
and  the  man  alongside  is  Tom  Smith,  the  bonnet 
dealer.  Smith  loves  his  horse,  but  can't  hear  him 
cough  when  he  has  a  cold.  There  comes  O.  W.  Dim- 
ock  with  '.Tack  Rositer,'  the  champion  two-miler.  Otis 
won't  speed  him  in  the  street.  Has  brought  him  out 
for  an  airing.  He's  a  trotter  that  can  burn  the  track 
from  the  half  to  the  wire.  And  there  comes  George 
Hosley  with  '  Tib  Hinnian.'  George  won't  speed  with 
the  brigade.  The  little  mare  is  too  sweet  to  take  sut>. 
chances.  Yes,  she's  a  trotter.  Got  a  record  on  tho 
ice  at  Ogdensburg  of  2.22." 

"That  gray  is  moving  nicely.  Who's  the  driver?" 
"That' 5  Judge  Masten,  with  'Recorder.'  He  has 
two  or  three  good  ones  in  his  stable.  Now,  we  have 
made  the  circuit.  The  brigatle  are  congregating  at 
Virginia  street  for  the  down  drive,  and  we'll  soon  see 
some  fun." 

"  Yes  ;  and  here  come  three  of  them.     Look  out  I  " 

"  They  are  moving  well.     The  leader  is  Lyman  B. 

Smith,  with  his  trotter  '  Fred,'  and  on  his  quarter  is 

Harvey  Peek,  with  his    Arabian  spike,  and   George 

Malcom,  close  up." 

"  Malcom  !     Is  he  the  Cold  Spring  distiller  ?  " 
"Yes;    and  he's  a  trotter,  too.     Thinks  more   of 
them  than  of  getting  a  wife." 

"  And  here  they  come !     Jehu !  See  the  snow  fly." 
"Yes,  yes;  they  are  the  boys  to  stir  r.p  the  snow. 


"HSS4»S5fe»Sw'-iite<  ;.«<-    '     a  e5>T?V;3j!a;s.,«WBJTsC 


iniiimwuiiii 


"!««■ 


SKETCHES. 


135 


The  leader  is  W.  W.  Huff,  the  horse  doctor,  with  the 
trotter  'Mayflower.'      Next,  and  close  up,  is  Edwin 
Hurlbut,  with  the  '  Hurlbut  Mare,'  and  right  up  with 
them  is  Peter  Young  driving  the  '  Patrick  Pony,'  now 
called  'Acorn'.     Next   to   Peter   is  Lauren    Burton, 
with  '  Black  Maria,'  and  lapped  onto  Burton  is  George 
Efner,  driving  '  Mary  Blane  ' — no  better  roadster  any- 
where, and  she  can  trot,  too,  as  you  observe." 
"  Here  comes  another  bunch  o£  them." 
"Yes;     the    rest     of     the     gang:      Pop    Horter, 
George    Harris,  Eli    Boyington,  William   Lockwood, 
Fordyce  Cowing,    Forman  Mount,  Wooster   Burton, 
and  in  the  rear,  his  usual  place,  is  George  Metzger 
with    '  Missouri '.      And    there  comes  John   Steven- 
son   with   the   six-horse   sleigh   and    a   full   cargo   of 
web-footers.     There  are  Captains  Fred  Wheeler,  Peter 
Smith,  Bill  Stone,  Jim  Snow,  T.  J.  Titus,  Bill  Arthur, 
Fred  Miller,  Bob  Wagstaff,  Jim  Beckwith,  Jim  Hath- 
away,   Amasa    Kingman,    Luther    Chamberlain   and 
Harry  Watts,  all  lake  captains,  and  with,  them  are 
their  two  landsmen  chums,  Deacon  Alvord  and  Gust. 
Tiffany.       That   party    will    paint   the    town  before 
midnight." 

"  And  there's  another  six-horse  turn-out." 
"Yes;  that's  the  American  Express  Company's 
sleigh.  Let  us  see  who  compose  the  party.  There  is 
W.  G.  Fargo,  W.  B.  Peck,  A.  G.  C.  Cochrane,  Jacob 
Dygert  and  Ham.  Best,  all  of  the  company,  and  their 
guests  are  Judge  Verplanck,  Charles  Ensign,  George 


?afe»t^»aBlilt»M'Ui>l>fe*iiwm*i!wa^^  ^  ■''mirtt  lii  iiiiiniii ini 


136 


MODERN     ANTIQUITIES. 


I 


f 


W.  Holt,  Charles  E.  Peck,  Captain  E.  P.  Dorr,  A.  S. 
Bemis,  William  Kasson,  George  W.  Bull,  George  P. 
Stevenson  and  T.  T,  Bloomer,  a  good  lot  and  a  fine 
team.  See  how  nicely  Sherman  curves  the  leaders  up 
Niagara  street." 

Now  the  shades  of  evening  appeared.  My  compan- 
ion was  silent  and  contemplative.  He  recuperated  in 
good  shape: 

"  Say  I  How  would  a  hot-scotch  sit  on  our  stomachs?  " 

"  Soothingly." 

"  Well,  where  can  we  get  'em  in  good  strength  ?  " 

"  At  McDougal's,  on  Seneca  street." 

"  Jerush !  That's  a  good  ways.  But  hurry  up,  let 
the  horse  travel,  I'm  suffering." 

Soon  after  the  animal  was  warmly  blanketed  on 
Seneca  street —  x     x     x  — three  of  a  kind. 

In  the  fall  of  1859  a  social  association  was  organized 
in  Buffalo,  named  the  B.  B.  B.  D.,  having  a  large 
membership,  which  held  nightly  meetings  in  an  apart- 
ment of  St.  James  Hall.  C.  C.  Bristol  was  its  presi- 
dent, and  his  onerous  duties  were  shared  by  a  galaxy 
of  vice-presidents  and  secretaries.  For  the  election  of 
new  members  frequent  executive  sessions  were  held, 
when  the  caliber  of  the  candidate  would  be  volumin- 
ously discussed  by  the  lawyers,  doctors  and  steamboat 
captains,  who  were  numerous  in  attendance.  The 
initiation  fee  for  a  member,  was  a  half  bushel  of  pret- 
zels (in  the  twist)  and  a  keg  of  beer — with  a  renewal 
payment  at  stated  intervals.     The  qualification  for  a 


«fwr^^«^  *V  w^-    1  K^^H«-  o 


r  j.^*iS.v«iS!Bi&*s»s^i«a«Bt«yaM!»i««iMfc -*■-<«-•'»•' 


:i„mi£^QMim^ 


J- 


I  volmnin- 
iteambuat 
ce.  The 
b1  of  pret- 
9,  renewal 
tion  for  a 


SKETCHES. 


137 


desirable  member  was  involved  in  his  disjiosition  to 
purchase  supplies  on  festive  occasions.  The  orator- 
ical capacity,  ethics  and  lung  power  concentrated 
in  the  association,  was  to  a  degree  stupendous,  and  the 
complex  conundrums  given  to  the  chairman  to  solve, 
were  handled  by  President  Bristol  with  masterly  art. 
The  owl-like  wisdom  displayed  by  him  on  such  occasions 
was  convulsively  amusing. 

The  ai)plication  of  citizen  Charles  Norton  for 
membership,  caused  animated  discussion.  Those 
opposed  held  that  the  applicant  would  be  a  greater 
consumer  than  a  provider  of  viands ;  on  the  other  hand 
it  was  contendetl  that  his  capacity  to  consume  would 
be  beneficial,  inasmuch  as  a  fresh  supply  for  each  ban- 
quet would  be  assured  in  lieu  of  stale  goods.  Then  a 
member  arose  and  stated  that  he  knew  the  applicant 
well,  that  his  disposition  to  purchase  was  profound — 
on  credit — whereupon  a  magnanimous  brewer  arose 
and  stated  that  he  would  accord  a  line  of  credit  to  the 
applicant,  when,  amid  applause,  Mr.  Norton  was  unan- 
imously elected  a  member  of  the  association. 

During  the  winter  the  local  press  made  frequent 
appeals  for  aid  for  the  needy  poor,  when  the  associa- 
tion resolved  itself  into  a  relief  organization  for  needy 
families  of  the  city,  to  solicit,  collect  and  distribute 
donations  from  the  citizens  at  large.  Wagons  trav- 
ersed the  streets,  attended  by  committees,  who  would 
receive  donations  of  any  character — food,  clothing  or 
furniture — and  soon  the  commodious  basement  of  St. 


« 


ii 


i3AiftjNfeu''*iyji^<iB*''«^^*^*'^"'''*^^ 


138 


MODERN     ANTIQUITIES. 


; 


(ft 


James  Hall  waM  filled  with  commodities,  and  was  the 
base  of  supplies  for  the  distributing  committees.  On 
February  9,  1860,  the  association  held  a  festival  at 
St.  James  Hall,  which  was  an  immense  success,  the 
building  and  street  being  inadequate  to  hold  the  people 
who  responded  to  the  thousands  of  invitations  distrib- 
uted by  the  Grand  Secretary,  Henry  W.  Faxon.  The 
circular  distributed  by  that  versatile  journalist  com- 
prised, besides  the  invitation  to  attend,  an  invitation 
to  donate,  naming  many  varieties  of  articles  which 
would  be  received,  and  the  program  for  an  exhibition 
from  the  stage,  ending  with  a  series  of  tableaux  of 
local  nature  and  interest.  The  following  is  the  Faxon 
circular : 

BUFFALO  ORANI)  BENEVOLENT  ASSOCIATION. 

To 

Sir — You  are  respectfully  invited  to  attend  the  Annual  Fes- 
tival of  this  Association,  to  be  held  at  St.  James  Hall,  on  Thurs- 
day, February  9,  1860. 

Ad,mit  the  Bbarek. 
H.  W.  Faxon,  Chairman  Committee  of  Arrangements. 

Prkludk. 

Uentleraen  and  ladies  desirous  of  contributing  to  the  needy 
poor  will  find  in  the  list  herein  enumerated  abundant  aggrava- 
tion for  the  vacation  of  their  pockets,  the  decimation  of  their 
personal  property  in  stocks,  bonds  and  bank  notes,  and  other 
calamities.  But  no  gentleman,  it  is  hoped,  will  be  so  carried 
away  by  the  excitement  of  the  occasion  as  to  donate  anything 
that  may  militate  against  the  claims  of  his  own  widows  and 
orphans,  which  should  be  paramount  to  all  else. 


'*Afis"A^'Wteit.'''  'a' ,<■.■!»!■' a>i&'"  :ii!Bi'tt''i>gM,^^ 


^  mi 


MHIHpVt 


SKETCHES. 


139 


Article*  Peculiarly  Acceptable. 
Victuals  and  Things. 
Charlotte  Russe  in  packages,  or  Charlottes  without  ruse.    Fresh 
Dutchwomen's  hens'  eggs.     Ducks  on  foot,  in  the  pond,  or  in  the 
<iuack,  it  not   donated   by   medical   students.     Pigs,  roasted   or 
broiled,  in  the  pen,  or  in  the  tenderloin.     Flour,   in  racks  and 
barrels,  or  in  doughnuts.     Buckwheat,  with  the  scratch  extracted. 
Indian  and  oatmeal,  shorts  and  middlings,  by  the  ton.     Beer,  in 
(luarters,  halves  and  wholes,  by  the  dray  load— or  in  the  Courier 
office.     Sausages,  in  the  hog  or  dog,  in  the  smooth  or  in  the  rough. 
No.  1  mackeral ;  to  feed  country  editors,  a  few  kits  of  No.  10  in 
the  rust,  will  be  tolerated.     Ice  cream,  froze  tight.     Sugar  and 
molasses  in  hogsheads.     Codfish,  in  crates  or  quintals.     All  kinds 
of  fish,  comprehending  suckers,  sardines,  turtle,  Rochester  mul- 
let and  Tonawanda  bullheads.     Native  fruit,  such  as  apples  and 
protested  notes  of  hand,  by  the  bushel  or  barrel.     Chickens  and 
oysters,  in  the  shell  or  on  foot,  in  the  feather  or  the  keg,  or  on 
(rommission.     Butter,  by  special  contract— none  strong  enough  to 
donate  itself  will  be  tolerated.     Corned  beef  will  be  accepted, 
drunk  or  sober.     Milk,  from  the  cow,  pump  or  distillery.    Young 
and  old  farmers'  veal,  when  accompanied  with  affidavits.     Geese, 
with  squawks  and  liver  complaint  extracted.   Porter-house  steaks, 
with  the  tenderloin  in.     In  fact,  any  kind  of  victuals  that  can 
make  the  palate  enthusiastic  and  the  stomach  jubilant. 

(iARMENTS. 

Pea  jackets,  monkey  jackets  and  water  jackets.  Pantaloons, 
with  [wckets  mortised  in.  Undershirts,  in  muslin  de  laine  or 
buckskin,  or  in  moire  antique.  Drawers,  of  wool,  cotton,  slippery 
elm  or  tin  foil.  The  variety  trimmed  with  Brussels  lace  not 
wanted.  Neckties,  in  silk,  welting-cord  or  hemp.  Stockings 
(darned),  long  or  short.  Capes,  cloaks  and  muffs  in  Russian 
sable,  seal  or  ermine.  Buffalo-skins  and  balmoral  skirts.  Dam- 
ask and  other  curtain  goods.  In  fact,  everything  made  of  any 
kind  of  fibre,  except  the  Buffalo  Kxprtss. 


1^ 


1, 


I 


m>'ii'i;iiriti'vr'ri.^'-'-"tf^i'^ 


.iijBS4ifci;fcji/a^U*W»*'^*'^^-  ■ 


140 


MODERN     ANTIQUITIES. 


LrxiHiEs. 


After  the  solids,  as  alwvc  enumerated,  the  foUowiug  liixurieN 
will  be  eapecially  acceptable  :  Gold,  in  bullion,  bushels,  bags  or 
half  bushels.  Silver,  in  limited  quantitiei.  Gold  b  'cks  not 
accepted.  Hills  of  exchange,  in  large  amounts— <m  London  pre- 
ferred. Farmers'  Joint  Stock  Bank  notes  and  false  teeth.  Turtle 
shell  combs  and  rubber  overshoes.  Confe-ssions  of  recent  mur- 
derers, and  hangman's  ropes,  with  the  knot  in.  Counterfeit  coin, 
by  sample,  (iold-rimmed  eye-glasses  and  Pittsburg  Kailroad 
stock— the  latter  in  limited  (juantitles.  Opera-glasses  and  glass 
eyes.  C'(MMiver  oil  and  bids  for  city  printing.  Com  plasters, 
<luinino  pills  and  dried  beef.  Mathews'  hair  dye  and  salt-rheum 
ointment.  Messenger  colts  and  Jersey  heifers,  and  rock  and  rye 
in  large  (juantities. 


I 


OlUKdS  OK   VlHTf. 

Defeated  candidates  for  mayor,  and  wood  by  the  cord.  Demo- 
cratic majorities  at  the  last  election— if  hermetically  sealed.  Dis- 
ap|H>inted  office  seekers  and  Powers'  Greek  Slaves.  Sugar  plums 
and  kisses,  of  the  tu-lip  variety.  Sugar-cured  hams  and  Palmer's 
marbles.  Members  of  Assembly  and  silk  mufflers,  or  anything 
else  woven  pliably  by  hand  or  loom.  Liquors  and  cigars,  by  dray 
loads.  Donors  in  this  department  have  a  wide  field  to  oi)erate  in, 
and  it  is  hoped  that  they  will  commence  early  and  persevere  in 
the  good  work,  as  there  are  many  8p|)licant8  for  relief  who  have 
a  refined  taste  for  these  goo<l8.  If  there  be  anything  you  have 
not  in  the  alwve  list,  why,  send  it  in  at  once,  and  not  mind  the 
expense  or  consequences. 


Note. 

Although  there  is  no  resolution  strictlj-  forbidding  the  presence 
of  ladies  at  the  festival,  the  committee  are  of  the  opinion  that 
it  would  be  as  well  for  them  to  stay  at  home  and  take  care  of 
the  children.* 

*  But  ihey  didn't  lUy  away  worth  a  cent— they  came  in  flockf. 


^^SSr 


SKETCHES. 


141 


Of  the  village  boys,  who  were  to  the  manor  born, 
but  few  survive  to  dose  the  century.  Of  the  number 
resident  in  the  city,  Oscar  F.  Crary  is  the  ehlest,  born 
in  1816.  Next  in  point  of  age  is  Pascal  P.  Pratt, 
born  in  1819.  In  1823  api)eare<l  (leorge  B.  Efner 
and  Alvin  D.  Gilbert.  Of  the  births  of  1826,  Hiram 
V.  Day  and  the  writer  hereof  remain.  Washington 
Russell  was  born  in  1828,  and  David  F.  Day  in  1829. 
.John  E.  MeManus  was  in  evidence  at  the  close  of  the 
village  era.  There  are  resident  in  Buffalo  a  number 
of  elderly  ladies  who,  it  is  believed,  were  village  girls, 
but,  owing  to  an  im|)ediment  in  their  memory  as  to 
their  exact  age,  sncih  belief  cannot  be  verified.  An 
exception  is  Miss  Sabrina  Ilosford,  of  Main  street, 
who  confesses  to  her  birth  in  Buffalo  in  1815.  Miss 
Hosford  has  witnessed  Buffalo's  evolution  from  a 
handet  to  a  metropolis  —  from  Red  Jacket  to 
Mayor   Diehl. 

With  this  chapter  ends  the  skettshes  of  early  Buffalo. 
And  it  is  well.     Reflection  recalls  the  admonition : 

"  Is  not  your  voice  broken?  your  wind  short?  your  wit  single? 
and  every  part  of  you  blurred  with  antiquity  ?" 

Just  so,  Mr.  Shakespeare. 


-»-  ----^^^???'h'>'fc:''j,:;^^?^c«!?a={!^*pr-»^vm^^ 


142 


MODKRN     ANTrgilTIKS. 


BUFFALO. 

Wben-  HHUiiii^  Hwords  w^re  in  anger  drew, 
VVluTc  Ked  Jacket  paddled  his  canoe. 
And  three  Thayers  hanged  in  open  view — 
Was  Old  time  HufTalo. 

Where  savage  life  in  the  main  prevailed, 
Wliere  approM-h  was  hy  Indian  trail, 
Then  rail  trainn  met  the  gliding  sail — 
Was  I'rogressive  buffalo. 

Where  (Ireat  lialiea  lay  their  tribute  down. 
Where  miles  of  handsome  homes  alxiund, 
And  where  its  people  own  the  town — 
Is  I>omestic  Buffalo. 

Where  are  rural  parks  and  cosy  drives, 
Where  shaded  lawns  in  beauty  thrive, 
And  liiassive  structures  i>oint  the  skies — 
Is  Picturesque  Buffalo. 

Where  Niagara  tlows  a  rapid  stream, 
Where  Nature's  |)ower  replaces  steam. 
And  bustling  streets  are  smooth  and  clean — 
Is  Escelsior  Buffalo. 

Let  zephyrs  blow,  high  or  low — 
"  Put  me  off  at  Buffalo." 


g*.;iyt)l<HgwitWf 


i^,fnurr>^i«:\'^  ^'•' 


f'^it. 


W*- 


APPENDIX. 


From  the  New  York  Mimonary  Mitgazine  of  Deetmber,  18iH). 

Fort  NiAOAUA,  OcIoUt  2«,  1800. 

Hkveueni)  ani»  Dear  Bhothkh  :  Through  the  kind  provi- 
dence of  Uod,  1  arrived  the  14th  of  tills  month  at  the  Seneca 
Castle,  five  miles  above  where  the  BuffalcM'  tMnpties  into  Lake  Erie. 
I  waited  on  the  chief  sachem  (lalled  Farmer's  Brother)  with 
Cusoc,  ray  interpreter,  and  made  known  to  him  my  businesM,  and 
asked  his  favor,  and  for  the  chiefs  of  the  nation  to  meet  me  in 
council.  He  informed  me  that  he  had  heard  of  mo  Iwfore,  and 
that  he  would  consult  with  the  chiefs,  and  as  smm  as  they  could 
be  ready  he  would  let  me  know  it.  I  then  t(X)k  my  leave  of  him, 
leaving  Cusoc  to  tarry  in  the  village,  and  went  to  a  village  of 
white  people,  consisting  of  five  or  six  families,  at  the  mouth  of 
the  KuiTaloe. 

On  Friday  following  Cusoc  came  and  informed  me  that  the 
chiefs  would  meet  in  council  that  afternoon  and  that  they  desired 
nie  to  attend.  1  proceeded  to  the  Castle,  and  on  arrival  found  the 
sachems  and  chiefs,  with  about  one  hundred  Indians,  aHsemble<I 
in  the  Council  House.  Soon  after  1  was  seated,  Bed  Jacket,  the 
second  sachem,  addressed  me  in  a  short  speech,  complimenting 
me  ui)on  my  arrival  among  them  and  saying  that  they  were  ready 
to  hear  what  I  had  to  say.  I  then  arose  and  addressed  them  as  1 
thought  proper,  and  delivered  the  talk  (as  they  style  it)  from  the 
directors  of  the  missionary  sot-iety. 

1  left  BufFaloe  on  Monday  and  reached  here  yesterday — in  hopes 
of  seeing  my  friend  Major  Hivardi  before  he  left,  but  was  two 
hours  too  late.  He  is  removed  from  the  command  of  this  post. 
One  Major  Porter  now  commands  here,  I  propose  to  be  with  the 
Tuscaroras  until  next  month  and  then  return  to  the  Seue<;a8, 
»  •  «  ♦  * 

ELKANAH   HOLMES. 

Kev.  J.  M.   Mahon, 

Secretary  of  the  Missionary  Society,  New  York. 


>~\ 


•  rt'rfM*l»''V*^'*' 


144 


APPKNDIX. 


From  the  Nnn  York  Mimonnry  Mngntine  of  Dreemhfr,  ISOO. 

Tin-  folldwiiiff  ntlilresH  wbh  iiia<l<>  to  nw  by  Keil  Jacket,  Kt'cond 
Kaclifiii  of  tlic  ScnecaH,  lU  tlie  Council  IIoiisu,  Seiu'ca  ('antle,  on 
th«  mill  (lay  of  Uctoltcr,  1M0(). 

KliKANAH    H0LME8 

"  Fatlmr:  W«'  are  happy  that  the  (Jreat  Spirit  Lhh  permitted 
UH  to  meet  together  lhi«  day.  We  heard  what  you  Hpoke  to  ua. 
We  thunk  the  (Ireut  Spirit  for  putting  into  the  iiiindK  of  the  good 
Hociety  of  friendMhip  in  New  York  to  Hend  you  to  viHit  um.  On 
your  way  to  visit  uh  you  called  on  our  hrotherN,  the  ()iiei(lH«*, 
Muhheconiuku,  and  the  Tuscarorus.  We  thank  them  for  seuding 
thin  g(M«l  talk  with  wampum  (holding  the  wampum  up).  We 
believe  that  you  mean  to  do  gtMxl  to  ua,  that  there  is  no  cheat  In 
your  talk,  or  in  the  Hociety  that  «ent  you  to  us. " 

He  then  spoke  to  his  i)eople,  charging  them  to  make  no  noise 
and  pay  attention  to  what  1  ha<l  to  say.  1  then  proceeded  to 
preach  to  them  of  Jesus  Christ.  Wlioii  1  had  concluded  Ked 
Jacket  arose  and  again  addressed  me  a.s  fidlows  : 

"Father:  We  thank  the  (Ireat  Spirit  for  what 
spoken  to  UH  and  hojto  he  will  always  keep  your  hi 
giKxl  work 

•'  Father  :  Wo  believe  there  isa(Jreat  Spirit  abovt 
all  things,  has  made  the  whites  as  well  as  the  Indians,  and  we 
believe  there  is  something  good  after  death  ;  and  we  believe  what 
you  say,  that  the  Great  Spirit  knows  all  we  do. 

"  Father  :  We  are  astonished  at  you  whites  that  wlien  Jesus 
Christ  was  among  you  doing  good  that  you  white  people  did  not 
pay  attention  to  liim,  and  Iwlieve  him,  and  that  you  put  him  to 
death. 

"Father:  We  Indians  did  not  do  this.  The  Great  Spirit  has 
given  white  people  their  ways  to  serve  him  and  to  get  your  living, 
and  he  has  givtin  Indians  their  ways  to  serve  hlin  and  to  get  their 
jiving  by  hunting  the  game  he  gives  to  us. 

"Father:  You  and  your  pw)ple  know  that  the  whites  are 
getting  our   lands    from  us  for  almost  nothing.     If   such  good 


vou    have 
n  this 

^.,  made 


"ypTsr-^iit. 


J 


\ber.  ISOO. 

'ki't,  St'cond 
'»  Cantle,  <m 

lOLMKH. 

H  imriiiittfd 
l><)k(>  to  UN. 

ol'  till'  g,tMn\ 
IhU  iih.  (>ii 
lif  Oiifiilai, 

for  Hending 
I   up).     Wn 

III)  <'b«-at  in 

ik(*  no  lloiHtt 
roceeded  to 
eluded   Ked 

■  vou  have 
!•         n  tLiH 

.  ^w  luade 
ans,  and  we 
lelieve  what 

wlien  Je8U8 
i)))le  did  not 
put  hi  III  to 

t  S])irit  huH 
your  living, 
to  get  tlieir 

whites  are 
such  good 


'^SS?^^^^'*^, . 


APPENDIX. 


145 


people  an  yiiii  and  your  wx'luty  ha<l  advined  uh  Indiana,  we  and 
our  forefathers  wouhl  not  have  l>eon  idieateti  by  the  white  people 
who  have  taken  our  hunting-grounds. 

"  Father  :  You  do  not  come  with  map*  under  your  arms  that 
we  have  found  deceit  in.  You  come  a  father  to  adviae  un  for  our 
giKHl,  and  not  to  cheat  us  out  of  our  lands." 

He  then  t(x>k  HtringH  of  wampum  in  Iiih  hand  and  continued  : 
"Father;  You  and  your  society  know  that  when  learning 
was  given  to  the  Indiana  they  liecaine  MUiall  in  numliers,  and 
Home  natirms  are  extinct,  and  we  do  not  know  what  lian  become 
of  them.  Our  brothers,  the  Mohawks  and  the  Oueldaa,  they  were 
driven  away  from  their  lands. 

"Father;  We  think  learning  would  do  us  no  good.  Wo  are 
astonished  that  you  white  people  who  have  the  g(M>d  book,  the 
Bible,  and  can  read  it  and  can  understand  it.  that  they  are  so  bad 
and  do  many  wicked  things. 

"Father:  We  (|>ointing  to  Farmer's  Brother)  cannot  see  that 
learning  would  do  our  people  any  good.  We  will  It^iive  it  to  those 
who  come  after  us  to  judge  for  themselves.  .  learning  was 
given  to  us,  cheating  would  creep  in  aiiumg  us  and  we  would 
share  the  fate  of  onr  brothers,  the  Mohawks  and  the  Oneidas, 
and  we  would  not  know  where  to  go." 

He  then  presented  me  with  seven  strings  of  wampum,  saying  : 
"  We  want  you  to  give  these  to  the  good  society  that  sent  you 
here." 

We,  the  undersigned,  were  the  interpreters  of  the  above  speech 
of  Ked  Jacket,  and  assisted  in  committing  it  to  writing.  We 
hereby  certify  that  it  is  as  near  to  the  ideas  and  phraseology 
expressed  by  him  as  we  can  write  it. 

Signed ;  William  Johnston. 

Nicholas  Cusot;. 


BcPFALOE  Crebk,  October  25,  1800. 


ELKANAU  HOLMES. 


\- 


•  •'«fc<*Aid<?i'*"^fcf-f*'iWSf*W^.''»*W«VJJW  *«  f"'^  r^v,.*r«  ** 


J 


146 


APPENDIX. 


From  the  New  York  Mimonary  Magazine  of  December,  1800. 

SPEECH  OF  FARMEK'S  BROTHER. 
The  following  speech  was  made  to  me  on  the  2l8t  day  of  Octo- 
ber, 1800.  by  Farmer's  Brother,  Chief  Sachem  of  the  Seneca 
Nation,  at  the  house  of  John  Palmer,  near  the  mouth  of  Buffaloe 
Creek,  it  being  the  third  public  talk  I  had  with  them. 

ELKANAH   HOLMES. 

"  Father  :  We  thank  the  Great  Spirit  for  allowing  us  to  meet 
together  this  day.  We  have  something  more  to  say  to  you. 
When  we  heard  your  good  talk  we  had  no  time  to  speak  all  we 
wavited  to  say  to  you. 

"  Father  :     We  will  now  talk  to  you  and  to  your  good  society. 

"  Father  :  The  United  States  and  the  Quakers  wanted  some 
of  our  hoys  sent  to  them  to  get  learning. 

"Father:  I  gave  the  United  States  one  of  my  grandsons  to 
get  learning. 

' '  Father  :  We  hoped  when  he  got  learning  he  would  be  of 
some  good  to  our  nation— to  tell  us  of  the  good  ways  of  the 
white  people.  Two  years  after  he  went  to  Philadelphia  I  went 
there  on  business  for  our  nation.  When  there  I  saw  my  grand- 
son, and  was  sorry  when  I  saw  him.  he  '.vas  in  a  tavern  with 
some  bad  people — men  and  women  and  he  a  boy  yet.  Then  my 
thoughts  that  he  would  be  of  service  to  our  nation  was  gone. 
We  have  no  such  things  among  us  of  boys  having  bad  ways. 

"  T.'ather ;  Some  time  ago  I  went  to  Qeneseo  and  saw  my 
grar.dson  there  in  soldier  clothes.  He  wanted  me  to  give  him 
two  miles  square  to  support  him  in  going  about  the  country. 

"  Father  :  By  your  good  talk  I  would  have  your  good  society 
take  one  of  our  boys  and  take  care  of  him  and  give  him  learning 
of  good  ways. 

"  Father :  We  hope  the  Great  Spirit  will  have  his  eyes  on  this 
boy  that  we  give  up  to  your  good  society.  We  hope  they  will 
plant  good  things  in  him. 

"  Father  :  We  now  give  to  you  these  strings  of  wampum  to 
take  with  our  talk  to  your  good  society  in  New  York  that  sent 
you  to  visit  us."  William  Johnston,  )  interpreters. 

Attest:      Nicholas  Cusoc,        ) 

ELKANAH   HOLMES. 


^;'.iVj.M!tStMJi/^:^-;it-S-Vii.>,.^^ 


ktNl 


•eember,  1800. 

:r. 

St  day  of  Octo- 

of  the  Seneca 

uth  of  Buffaloe 

em. 

[   HOLMES. 

wing  us  to  meet 
to  say  to  you. 
to  speak  all  we 

ir  good  society, 
rs  wanted  some 

ly  grandsons  to 

be  would  be  of 
id  ways  of  the 
adelphia  I  went 
'.  saw  my  grand- 
in  a  tavern  with 
yet.  Then  my 
ition  was  gone. 
;  bad  ways, 
to  and  saw  my 
ne  to  give  him 
le  country, 
our  good  society 
ve  him  learning 

his  eyes  on  this 
hope  they  will 

s  of  wampum  to 
V  York  that  sent 

*  j-  Interpreters. 

lH  holmes. 


SKETCHES  OF  ALASKA. 


m-'-'^.^k^W.M^i^s^B^'^' 


-v^wS^j(ff'^5;3(^5(7rtr.fe'''W^W*k»^.*«^^  ■« 


< 

'X 


H 
U 

OS 


CHAPTER    I. 


f- 

H 
U 

is 
c 


SCENERY. 

On  the  2l8t  day  of  July,  1885,  I  was  commissioned, 
by  President  Grover  Cleveland,  Marshal  of  the  United 
States  in  and  for  the  District  of  Alaska. 

On  the  8th  of  September  following,  together  with 
the  newly  appointed  Governor,  Judge  and  District 
Attorney  for  the  district,  we  embarked  at  Port 
Townsend,  Wash.,  on  the  steamship  Idaho,  bound 
for  Sitka,  Alaska. 

After  a  run  of  three  hours  across  the  strait  of  San 
Juan  del  Fuca,  the  ship  was  entering  ;i  cosy  bay  of 
the  large  Island  of  Vancouver,  British  Columbia, 
where  is  picturesquely  situated  the  pleasant  city  of 
Victoria.  The  town  has  a  population  of  twelve  thou- 
sand inhabitants,  and  is  noted  for  its  genial  climate, 
fine  scenery,  and,  at  that  period,  for  its  American 
Consul.  To  an  American,  the  aspect  at  Victoria  is 
decidedly  colonial,  unless  it  be  its  hackmen,  who,  evi- 
dently, were  educated  at  Niagara  Falls. 


SKETCHES    OF   ALASKA. 


f-'''S^jk^r-^-r-^^^^!^Mti^'i^>^!»^ 


150 


SKETCHES   OF    ALASKA. 


Upon  reaching  the  wharf,  the  ship  was  boarded  by 
a  fussy  old  man,  inquiring  if  the  Alaska  officials  were 
on  board.  When  intercepting  us,  he  said  he  was  the 
United  States  Consul ;  that  he  was  66  years  old,  with 
faculties  unimpaired ;  that  his  wife  was  the  daughter 
of  the  lamented  Col.  Baker,  of  Oregon,  and  that  in 
war  times  he  was  clerk  of  a  United  States  Senate  com- 
mittee ;  that  President  Hayes  appointed  him  to  his 
present  position,  and  that  he  came  to  greet  and  invite 
us  to  call  at  the  consulate.  For  all  of  which  we 
thanked  him,  of  course.  During  our  stay  at  Victoria 
he  was  persistently  officious,  assuming  to  advise  us 
how  to  conduct  ourselves  in  order  to  maintain  the  dig- 
nity of  our  official  {wsition  in  due  form.  To  our  party 
he  was  a  compound  nuisance,  and  we  were  glad  when 
rid  of  him.  Josh  Billings  remarked  that  he  hatl  un- 
successfully struggletl  with  the  conundrum :  "  At 
what  time  of  life  is  a  man  the  biggest  fool  ?  "  Had 
Josh  been  of  our  party  he  would  have  concluded  that 
it  was  when  consul  at  Victoria. 

On  leaving  Victoria  the  ship  makes  the  passage  of 
the  Gulf  of  Georgia,  a  body  of  salt  water  dividing 
the  Island  of  Vancouver  from  the  main  shore  of  Brit- 
ish Columbia.  The  passengers  crowded  the  deck  while 
the  ship  ran  through  narrow  passages  between  ever- 
gi-een  islets,  made  difficult  and  exciting  by  the  rapid 
flowing  of  the  tide.  When  passing  the  north  point  of 
Vancouver  the  open  sea  is  encountered  for  a  distance 
of  thirty  miles,  when  the  ship  enters  the  world's  won- 


'^'smwmit.mmmiifM.uimmwmm 


3arded  by 
icials  were 
ie  was  the 
}  old,  with 

daughter 
id  that  in 
mate  c  jiii- 
lini  to  his 
and  invite 
which  we 
t  Victoria 
advise  us 
in  the  dig- 

our  party 
glad  when 
\e  had  un- 
im :  "  At 
[?"  Had 
uded  that 

passage  of 
p  dividing 
•e  of  Brit- 
ieck  while 
ireen  ever- 
the  rapid 
h  point  of 
a  distance 
irld's  won- 


8CENERY. 


151 


derland — the  inland  passage  up  the  north  Pacific  coast. 
The  Alexandria  Archipelago,  so  named  by  "Vancouver, 
comprises  hundreds  of  islands,  which,  for  eight  hun- 
dred miles,  fringe  the  coast  of  British  Columbia  and 
Alaska.  Many  of  the  islands  and  channels  retain 
names  given  them  by  that  intrepid  navigator. 

Able  descriptive  writers  have  essayed  to  portray  the 
grandeur  of  these  waters,  one  of  whom  writes:  "The 
stillness  of  air,  land  and  water  in  the  early  morning 
made  it  seem  like  the  dav.-n  of  creation  on  some  new 
paradise."  Another  writer  says:  "I  could  scarcely 
realize  that  I  was  in  the  same  world  left  behind  me." 
Another  relates  an  incident.  "  I  wish  I  could  remem- 
ber the  beautiful  words  with  which  the  Rev  Dr. 
Tiffany  likened  it  to  the  glorious  portal  of  future  life. 
I  do  remember  a  gentleman  standing  near  me  re- 
marked: 'I  did  not  believe  that  God  ever  made 
anything  sc  beautiful  as  this.'  To  which  I  involun- 
tarily replietl,  but  not  irreverently,  '  I  did  not  believe 
that  he  could.'  " 

During  my  stay  in  Alaska  much  of  my  time  was 
spent  in  traversing  these  channels,  and  my  obsdrvation 
could  not  detect  wherein  the  above  descriptions  were 
overdrawn.  No  pen  can  faithfully  describe  the  gran- 
deur there  presented.  The  observer  meets  with  many 
surprises — new  scenerj'  constantly  appearing  as  the 
steamer  pursues  its  winding  course  among  the  islands. 
Many  whales  are  seen  projecting  their  sable  backs 
above  the  surface  of  water,  and  at  near  approach  dive 


'smimmi&f;, 


■«W_»<{%»^1©te^tfJ>(^Bto?flM»WM*»W((S*«t««*A«Mta»*««'.i^'r 


152 


SKETCHES   OF    ALASKA. 


into  its  depths,  flaunting  their  tails  in  defiance  as  they 
longitudinally  disappear  from  view.  In  ludicrous  con- 
trast to  the  majesty  of  the  scene,  was  a  dude  on  the 
upper  deck  firing  at  a  huge  whale  with  No.  6  shot. 

Prominent  among  these  passages  is  Glenville  chan- 
nel. It  is  about  forty  miles  long,  a  half-mile  wide, 
and  mostly  straight  as  an  arrow.  Lined  on  either 
side  by  mountain  walls,  clothed  with  evergreen  up  to 
the  timber  line,  thence  is  presente<l  a  region  of  rock, 
vast  in  extent,  all  of  which  is  surmounted  by  a  region 
of  snow  and  ice — these  aerial  glaciers  glistening  in  the 
sunlight  with  "  more  than  silvery  whiteness." 

An  approaching  steamer,  when  in  this  channel,  so 
near  the  mountain  walls,  loses  the  majesty  it  presents 
in  open  water,  appearing  as  insignificant  as  a  house-fly 
crawling  on  a  billiard  table.  Occasionally,  a  local 
snow-storm  can  be  seen  dancing  a  Highland  fling  on  a 
mountain-top,  while  a  genial  atmosphere  of  sixty  de- 
grees prevails  on  the  deck  of  the  steamer.  Numerous 
tiny  cataracts  leap  down  hundreds  of  feet  perpendic- 
ularly. They  look,  as  I  heard  a  lady  remark,  "  like 
huge  satin  ribbons,  hanging  down  the  mountain  walls." 
Throughout  the  archipelego  hundreds  of  evergreen 
islets  decorate  the  waters,  "like  gems  on  a  coronet." 
The  beholder  of  this  sublime  scenery  is  struck  with 
wonder  and  awe  at  its  more  than  earthly  grandeur. 

We  called  at  Douglas  Island,  where  there  is  a  pro- 
ducing gold  mine,  and  a  large  stamp-mill  in  full  opera- 
tion.    It  was  then  the  property  of  Senator  Jones,  of 


UUti)!;AtJl'..j«mi!Jilj<Ui|-^iJMa 


■WWW- 


SCENERY. 


153 


ce  as  they 
crous  con- 
de  on  the 
I  shot, 
trille  chan- 
nile  wide, 
on  either 
sen  up  to 
n  of  rock, 
f  a  region 
ing  in  the 


Nevada,  and  other  mining  capitalists.  The  Senator 
was  a  passenger  on  the  ship  from  Victoria.  He  is  an 
agreeable,  level-headed  man  of  the  world,  enthusiastic 
in  the  future  of  Alaska  as  a  gold-producing  region. 
The  Senator  was  accompanied  by  his  wife,  whose 
superior  personality,  and  kindly  greetings  accorded  to 
strangers  on  shipl)oard,  is  a  pleasant  memory. 


lannel,  so 
t  presents 
.  house-fly 
f,  a  local 
fling  on  a 
sixty  de- 
^umerous 
>erpendic- 
irk,  "  like 
in  walls." 
evergreen 
coronet." 
uck  with 
ideur. 
!  is  a  pro- 
uU  opera- 
Jones,  of 


iiiiJiU'jiiifciM'i'i'iWiiinIi^JiiiiiiiirTii  r«^-ii 


xm 


m 


164 


8KETCHE8    OK    ALA8KA. 


CHAPTER    II. 


SITKA. 

At'^'EK  a  pleasant  and  interesting  passage  of  seven 
days,  the  ship  landed  at  Sitka,  the  Alaskan  capital. 
The  town  is  situated  on  the  west  shore  of  Baranoif 
Island,  at  the  heatl  of  a  deep  bay,  twenty  miles  from 
the  outer  capes.  The'  capes  are  about  Rfteen  miles 
apart,  the  shores  of  the  bay  approaching  to  within  a 
distance  of  five  miles  at  the  head  of  the  bay,  where 
is  locate<l  the  town.  Baranoff  is  an  outer  island  of  the 
group,  its  east  shore  lieing  about  fifty  miles  from  the 
main-land.  It  is  eighty  miles  long  from  north  to  south, 
maintaining  a  width  of  thirty  miles,  in  latitude  67.2, 
and  longitude  135  degrees  west  from  Greenwich. 

The  town  of  Sitka  is  built  on  a  level  plateau,  con- 
taining about  three  hundred  acres,  fifteen  feet  above 
high  tide.  This  area  is  washed  on  two  sides  by  the 
waters  of  the  bay,  and  otherwise  walled  in  by  high 
mountains,  whose  snow  region  is  three  thousand  feet 
above  the  tide.  Fronting  the  town,  one  thousand  feet 
distant,  are  a  cordon  of  islands  across  the  bay,  clothed 
with  evergreen,  the  channels  between  affording  ample 
entrance  to  a  commodious  harbor,  thus  forming  a  cosy 
amphitheatre,  where  nestles  the  quaint  little  town  of 
hewn  logs  and  whitewashed  walls.  With  its  primitive 
architecture,  its  grassy  courts  and  graveled  walks,  its 


iiWAtaiiiM;..ji..-.i&w.'''>4:WUJJiJj!J4.»;^t^.4Mxn'>^ 


"vr- 


SITKA. 


165 


waters  and  islets,  its  traders  and  their  shops,  its  In- 
dians and  their  canoes,  Sitka  is  much  like  the  oW  town 
of  Mackinaw,  at  the  head  of  Lake  Huron. 

Inchuled  in  the  iwpulation  of  Sitka,  at  that  period, 
were  about  one  hundred  Russian  Creoles,  quiet  and 
industrious  yieople.  Of  Americans  proper  there  were 
about  a  like  number,  including  civil  officials,  naval 
officers  and  their  families.  The  adjoining  Indian  vil- 
lage, or  "  ranche,"  as  there  calletl,  contained  about  one 
thousand  natives,  men,  women  and  children.  At  the 
front,  facing  the  waters  of  the  bay,  is  an  open  space  of 
al»out  three  acres,  called  "  The  Green,"  appropriately 
so,  as  the  grass  thereon  remains  fresh  and  green 
throughout  the  year.  Here  ai-e  mounted  two  Dahlgren 
guns,  with  a  immber  of  ancient  Russian  cannon  keei)- 
ing  them  company,  altogether  an  imposing  battery  to 
rep«5l  a  fleet  of  canoes.  The  Government  buildings 
face  the  Green,  and,  like  the  old  cannon,  are  relics  of 
the  Russian  nobles,  who  in  days  of  yore  held  high 
carnival  at  Sitka. 

Out  seaward,  on  the  north  shore  of  the  bay,  stands' 
majestic  Mt.  Edgecomb,  a   subdued  volcano.     When 
Captain  Cook  was  there  in  1796,  it  was  in  an  angry 
mood,  belching  out  smoke,  cinders,  fire  and  brimstone, 
but  now  it  is  an  orderly  and  conservative  volcano. 

There  is  a  large  mission  establishment  at  Sitka,  in- 
cluding an  Industrial  School,  where  little  Indians  are 
taught  to  read  and  write,  the  boys  blacksmithing,  shoe- 
making  and  carpenter  work,  and  the  girls  to  cook,  sew 


',/. 


« »u'»ii?Siiui , ,  I — 


.£ 


156 


HKKTCIIE8    OK    ALAAKA. 


and  knit.  The  day  following  our  arrival  the  newly 
arrived  (iovernor  and  Marshal  were  invited  to  dine  at 
the  nuHsion.  When  standing  in  line  awaiting  intro- 
duction to  the  ladies  there  resident,  the  hostess  ad  vaneed 
and  offereil  her  hand  to  the  Marshal,  saying:  "You 
are  very  welcome  to  Sitka,  Governor."  Her  greeting 
was  cordially  re<'iprocated,  when  she  was  advised  of 
her  mistaken  identity,  and  assured  that  it  was  quite 
justiHed  when  contrasting  our  jiersonal  appearance. 
The  incident  gave  zest  to  our  introductions,  and  has- 
tene<I  our  acquaintance  with  the  people  there  assembled, 
and  caused  the  constant  watc^hing  of  the  Governor  for 
an  opportunity  to  get  even,  until  he  succeeded  in  so 
doing.  We  were  shown  through  the  work-shops, 
where  I  noticed  a  ten-year-old  boy,  with  freckled 
face  and  sandy  hair.  The  novelty  of  a  red-hairetl 
Indian  prompted  the  inquiry,  "  What's  your  name  ?  " 
Promptly  came  the  answer,  "  Mike  Murphy."  Eureka ! 
An  Irish  Indian !     Who'd  a  thunk  it? 

Shortly  after  our  arrival  occurred  an  incident  novel 
and  interesting  to  a  "  tenderfoot."  A  native  holding  a 
coil  of  line,  waded  out  from  the  beach  and  hove  its 
hock  end  far  out  into  the  water,  and  then  returned  to 
shore.  He  soon  began  to  haul  in,  hand  over  hand, 
and  soon  with  greater  exertion,  as  if  he  had  a  bite  from 
something  having  at  least  two  rows  of  teeth  ;  and  sure 
enough,  for  there  appeared  in  the  surf  a  lusty  halibut, 
making  the  water  boil  by  the  handy  wielding  of  his 
tail.     Mr.  Indian  again  waded  out  and  gave  the  flsh  a 


IcT^i'ir-^  -.' 


'''^:^-':D^^mmm0^imMi-^^^^'^-'  v>Avs»^#^i^-^««g^«^^-.«aifii^"; 


SITKA. 


167 


smart  rap  on  the  heml  with  a  chih,  and  then,  aidwl  by 
a  hel|)«r,  drag^etl  hiH  captive  to  the  beach  amid  the 
aj)plause  of  Governor,  Manthal,  ttquaws,  mngwunipH 
and  liooiUunifi. 

In  Sitka  bear-skinH  are  a  legal  tender,  and  a  house- 
hohl  article  in  all  well-regulated  families.  No  sleeping 
room  is  complete  without  a  hear-skin  sjjread  in  i'nuit 
of  the  bed  to  receive  your  feet  when  in  a  bare  state. 
Their  market  price  was  #5.00  each.  Governor  Swine- 
fowl  paid  an  m'togenariaii  squaw  iffO.OO  for  one.  When 
asked  why  the  extra  ilollar  was  demaudeil,  she  (iooUy 
replied,  "  Big  Chief  pay  much." 

Sitka  i«  a  naval  station,  and  a  vessel  of  war  is  sta- 
tioned there,  with  its  company  of  marines  (piartered 
on  shore,  where  they  beat  and  blow  "  taps,"  early  and 
late,  and  drill  on  the  Green. 

In  Sitka  there  is  an  old  Greek  Church,  with  a  tower 
containing  a  chime  of  six  bells,  which  supply  the  town 
with  music  galore.  There,  also,  is  a  colony  of  ravens, 
the  identical  "ominous  birds  of  yore,"  occupying  an 
adjacent  mountain-side.  They  nuike  daily  visits,  and 
hold  dress  parade  on  the  Green.  Their  gyrations  ai-e 
in  fair  imitation  of  the  marines  in  their  morning  drill ; 
the  birds  coming  immediately  after.  Seals  and  sea-lions 
sun  themselves  on  the  outer  rocks,  while  the  festive 
dolphin  and  porpoise  perform  their  gymnastic  exercises 
within  the  inner  bay.  The  weather  clerk  flew  his  scien- 
tific kites  from  the  top  of  the  "  Castle,"  the  most  pre- 
tentious structure  made  by  human  hands  in  all  Alaska. 


*?,& 


168 


HKKTCHI'.N  OK  ALAHKA. 


THE  UKKKK  (MIt'KCII. 

Tlu'  iiumt  iiitfivHtinjj  relit'  of  tli«'  KiiHNian  era  in 
Alaska  Ih  the  HuHHo-Cireek  C'lmreli  of  St.  Michael  at 
Sitka.  It  iH  (leHigned  and  eonHtruete«l  in  the  form  of  a 
(ireiik  cross,  like  similar  edifices  in  the  mother  conn- 
try,  and  is  the  only  one  of  similar  constrnction  on  the 
western  (H)ntinent.  It  is  prominently  sittuited,  facing 
the  sea  at  the  head  of  the  street  running  up  from  the 
landing.  The  front  entrance  is  through  the  stpiarH 
hase  of  the  tower,  in  the  second  story  of  which  is  the 
chime  of  bells.  From  the  tower  rises  a  tall,  symmetri- 
cal spire,  topjM'd  by  a  » olden  cross,  comprising  four 
distinct  cro-yses.  Back  of  the  tower,  surnu>unting  the 
main  ]>ortion  of  the  structure,  is  a  massive  metal, 
covered  oriental  dome.  From  the  cu])ola  above  the 
doiue,  rises  a  spire,  supporting  a  large  golden  ball,  and 
above  the  ball  is  a  com;>ound  (treek  cross  nine  feet 
high.  Tlie  clu.icb  was  erecte<l  ninety  years  ago,  and 
now,  while  its  exterior  is  an  old,  weathM-worn  concern, 
'.he  interior  has  its  original  j/iesentment  of  an  oriental 
paradiMe.  ')nc  wing  L  used  as  a  chupol,  and  therein, 
beside  an  unique  font,  in  a  large  painting  of  the  Vir- 
gin r\i.\  Ch  ,a  count  -part  of  the celebratetl  painting 
at  Moscow.  All  the  drapery  is  of  silver  and  the  halo 
of  gold.  The  chancel  is  elevated,  and  approached  by 
three  broad  steps  up  to  two  golden  bronzed  doors, 
ornamented  by  solid  silver  images  of  the  patron  saints. 
All   the   panels   are  decorated   by  fine  oil   paintin^ :, 


THK  OKEEK   OHUKCII. 


169 


111  era  iii 
licliael  at 
form  of  a 
her  coun- 
ion  on  the 
ed,  facing 
I  from  the 
he  scpiaru 
ich  iH  the 
Hymiiietri- 
Hing  foiir 
nting  the 
ve  metal, 
ibove  the 
ball,  and 
nine  feet 
;  ago,  and 
1  concern, 
n  oriental 
i  therein, 
E  the  Vir- 
l  painting 
I  the  halo 
)ached  by 
led  doors, 
■on  saints, 
paintin^ :, 


which  good  judges  say  must  have  been  executed  by  a 
master  hand.  Above  the  chancel  is  a  painting  of  the 
Last  Siip|)er,  (covered,  like  the  Madonna,  with  silver, 
as  are  two  others,  one  each  side  of  the  altar.  Across 
the  thrcsljold  of  these  doors  no  woman  is  allowed  to 
step,  and  through  the  inner  one  none  but  the  priest 
and  his  superiors  are  allowed  to  enter.  The  walls  are 
hung  with  jK)rtraits  in  «»il,  and  the  general  effect  is 
rich  in  the  extreme.  The  bishop's  crown  is  covered 
witli  iHjarls  and  amethysts.  The  floors  are  strewn  with 
ricii  oriental  rugs,  and  around  stand  huge  candelaltra 
of  solid  silver,  bearing  colored  waxen  candles  six  inches 
'.n  diameter  and  six  feet  high.  The  incongruity  of 
such  splendor  in  a  remote  wilderness  is  not  the  least 
considered  among  the  curious  things  connected  with 
this  strange  edifice. 

From  the  tower  of  the  church  the  mountain  scenery 
is  extremely  picturescpie.  A  notable  scene  is  Cross 
Mountain.  Near  its  towering  summit  is  a  perpetual 
glacier,  which  in  form  is  a  ])erfect  imitation  of  the 
Holy  Cross,  symmetrically  real  to  the  view.  Probably 
no  other  body  of  ice  is  as  reverentially  considered  as  is 
the  glacier  on  Cross  Mountain. 

The  ailherents  of  the  Greek  Church  at  Sitka  have 
a  unique  annual  ceremony.  Headed  by  their  priest, 
who  is  flanked  on  either  side  by  men  bearing  a  large, 
open  book,  from  which  he  reads  in  a  loud  voice,  they 
march  in  procession  about  the  town,  to  "  drive  the 
devil  out"  from  all  places  in  which  he  may  have  become 


'i^jsasfa- 


160 


SKETCHES    OF    ALASKA. 


installed  during  the  year  past.  This  ceremony  has  .an 
air  of  solemnity  about  it  that  commands  the  respectful 
attention  of  spectators.  To  an  American  it  presents  a 
scene  decidedly  quaint  and  foreign. 

Governor  A.  P.  Swineford  was  a  citizen  of  Mar- 
quette, Mich.,  where,  as  legi-slator,  mayor,  .and  editor 
of  the  Minimj  Jovrmd,  he  had  developed  sufficient 
f;all  to  become  a  territorial  governor.  While  en  route 
to  his  dominion  he  conceived  the  audacity  of  intro- 
ducing a  printer's  outfit  into  the  peaceful  solitude  of 
Alaska.  At  Portland,  Oregon,  the  conspiracy  was 
promoted  by  his  purchase  of  a  hand  press  and  other 
material  to  print  a  new8])aper,  which  was  shipped  to 
Sitka,  where,  for  a  time,  the  disturbing  element  was 
closely  confined. 

The  official  labors  of  the  Alaskan  executive  are  not 
to  a  great  degree  exhaustive,  consisting,  chiefly,  in 
conversing  emotionally  with  the  natives  (making  mo- 
tions to  Indians),  gathering  curios  and  looking  for 
his  interpreter.  Therefore  Governor  Swineford  had 
abundant  leisure  to  indulge  his  propensity  to  print  and 
edit  a  newspaper  without  interfering  with  his  official 
labors. 

At  a  meeting  of  citizens  and  officials,  a  publication 
company  was  formed  with  a  paid-up  capital  of  six 
hundred  dollars — the  cost  of  the  printing  outfit — and 
it  was  then  resolved  to  publish  a  newspaper  at  Sitka. 
In  the  person  of  the  Governor  the  association  had 
available   a   practical    publisher,   printer   and   editor, 


1*  ^>&, 


moiiy  has  .an 
le  respectful 
it  presents  a 

en  of  Mar- 
,  and  editor 
kI  sufficient 
liile  en  route 
ty  of  intro- 
l  solitude  of 
spiracy  was 
8  and  other 
shipped  to 
sleinent  was 

itive  are  not 
,  chiefly,  in 
making  mo- 
looking  for 
ineford  had 
to  print  and 
I  his  official 

.  publication 
pital  of   six 

outfit — and 
er  at  Sitka, 
iciation   had 

and   editor, 


aT? "  A'i?v%^^!^'i  ^dSat??; 


THE   ALASKAN, 


161 


whose  reputation  justified  the  belief  that  their  contem- 
plated newsjjaper  would  be  published  in  form,  and 
edited,  if  need  be,  with  audacity.  With  the  aid  of  a 
typo  discovered  among  the  marines,  the  Governor  set 
up  the  press  in  a  vacant  Russian  hut,  and  in  due  iime 
appeared  a  fuU-fledged  newspaper — The  Alaskan. 

Mi.'.st  new  enterprises  boast  of  a  specialty,  and  that 
of  The  Alaskan  was  of  being  the  most  westerly,  most 
northerly  and  most  remote  publication  on  the  Ameri- 
can continent.  Three  of  its  four  pages  were  fille.^  with 
solid  matter,  descriptive  of  Alaska,  its  climate,  re- 
sources and  needs  in  the  way  of  congressional  legisla- 
tion, written  by  the  master  hand  of  the  Governor. 
The  remaining  columns  were  diversely  illumined  with 
local  paragraphs  contributed  by  a  minor  official,  whose 
service  in  that  direction  was  demanded  by  the  manag- 
ing editor,  notwithstanding  his  genius  had  never  been 
thus  directed — "  which  will  make  the  newspaper  inter- 
esting," said  the  Governor. 

Following  are  sample  locals  in  the  initial  number  of 

The  Alaskan  : 

To  a  Sitkaii  the  pleasures  of  life  are  blended  with  uncertainty 
as  to  the  strugjrle  between  a  monthly  mail  and  the  deep  sea.  All 
else  is  serene. 

A  charitable  lady  placed  on  our  desk  a  dish  filled  with  cookies. 
Early  in  mr  career  we  learned  to  admire  the  toothsome  concrete, 
and  the  good  lady  has  our  thanks.  Later— While  momentarily 
absent,  the  managing  editor  clandestinely  entered  our  sanctum 
and  cooked  them  all. 


162 


SKETCHES    OK    ALASKA. 


The  next  mail  will  bring  newspapers  dated  to  November  first, 
all  antedating  tbe  elections  now  derided.  A  cold-potato  diet  is 
the  reading  of  campaign  literature  after  election  is  past.  But  we 
antipodes  must  endure  the  affliction  as  we  do  our  old  debts— with 
Cliristian  resignation. 

A  custom  of  Alasiia  Indians,  incident  to  their  superstition,  is 
that  of  not  removing  their  dead  out  the  doorway  of  a  house,  but 
through  the  smokehole  in  the  roof,  in  order,  perhaps,  to  make  a 
scoojt  on  the  evil  spirit.  Calls  for  the  service  of  this  tenderfoot 
as  pall-bearer  on  such  occanions  are  declined  in  advance.  The 
spectacle  of  we,  us,  leading  a  funeral  procession  down  the  roof 
of  a  house  must  ever  be  lost  to  science. 

It  is  recorded  that  this  is  the  season  of  the  greatest  rainfall  at 
Sitlia.  But  the  present  feature  is  alternate  rain  and  sunshine, 
and  unless  one  of  the  contestants  weakens,  there  will  be  a  dead 
heat  for  first  money.  Such  is  the  force  of  habit,  even  on  a  strong 
mind.  Though  we  sold  our  trotter  before  starting  for  Alaska, 
our  i)en,  unless  under  a  strong  ])ull,  will  break  and  perpetrate  a 
turf  item.  However,  this  being  a  weather  item,  the  digression 
may  escape  the  scrutiny  of  the  managing  editor,  and  as  well  as 
any  answer  his  call  for  copy.     If  not,  why  not? 

Such  coinniodity  did  the  Governor  of  Alaska  con- 
sider *'  made  a  newspaper  interesting." 

A  favorite  prerogative  of  Alaska's  executive  is  to 
coddle  the  Indians,  to  preside  at  their  pow-wows  and 
referee  their  domestic  troubles,  which  duties  Governor 
Swineford  discharged  with  infinite  zest.  A  native  of 
Mormon  proclivities,  whose  dual  wives  had  prosecuted 
a  scratch-fight,  appeared  with  the  combatants  before 
the  executive  tribunal  to  have  the  matter  adjudicated. 
Whereupon  the  Governor  promulgated  a  code  of  di- 


.:;«S%^'i^>.4^s! 


THE   GOVERNOR. 


163 


ember  first, 
tato  diet  is 
it.  But  we 
iebts — with 

erstition,  is 
I  bouse,  but 
I,  to  lualte  a 
I  tenderfoot 
ance.  The 
vn  tlie  roof 

t  rainfall  at 

I  sunshine, 

II  be  a  dead 
on  a  strong 
tor  Alaska, 
perpetrate  a 
i  digression 
(1  as  well  as 


iaska 


coii- 


itive  is  to 
•wows  and 
Governor 
L  native  of 
prosecuted 
nts  before 
Ijudicated. 
ode  of  di- 


vorce— arbitrarily  separated  the  untutored  native  from 
his  best-looking  wife.  The  decree  was  respected  for  a 
time,  but  finally  the  women  became  reconciled  and 
again  the  trio  aj)peared  at  court,  praying  that  the 
divorced  wife  be  restored  to  her  former  marital  rela- 
tions. The  court  explained  how  this  "couldn't  be 
done,"  and  lectured  tho  apjilicants  on  the  enormity  of 
a  good  Indian  having  two  wives.  And  then,  with 
Solomonic  wisdom,  decided  that  the  husband  could 
choose  between  the  two  which  he  would  take  for  his 
wife,  and  that  must  settle  the  matter  for  all  time.  That 
was  a  "  decision  as  was  a  decision,"  one  with  decided 
effect,  creating  a  lively  conflict  between  the  women, 
from  which  the  court  made  good  escape,  taking  refuge 
in  a  convenient  billiard  saloon.  The  case  went  over 
the  term. 

On  another  occasion  the  Governor  displayed  wise 
judicial  function.  A  vagabond  Indian  doctor  had  im- 
posed his  legerdemain  upon  an  invalid  sexagenarian 
squaw,  until  his  fees  had  exacted  her  last  blanket. 
The  patient,  not  convalescent,  applied  to  the  executive 
for  redress.  The  complainant  was  attended  by  two 
stalwart  nativi  who  were  by  the  court  invested  with 
official  authority — tying  a  -  'bbon,  taken  from  a  bunch 
of  cigars,  around  the  wrist  .  each — and  ordering  them 
to  arrest  and  bring  the  offender  into  court  forthwith. 
The  royal  insignia  of  an  Indian  doctor  is  a  supei-fluity 
of  hair,  in  the  manner  of  a  foot-ball  lunatic,  the  mass- 


\ 


■^S.^^fl'  -vrf-  '--^ 


164 


SKETCHES   OF   ALASKA. 


ive  quantity  of  which  supplies  his  healing  power,  and 
by  which  he  set  much  store.  With  the  offender,  and 
alio  it  a  dozen  blankets  in  evidence,  the  court  opened, 
and  after  a  decree  restoring  the  blankets  to  their 
pro,  "r  owner,  practical  punishment  was  inflicted  upon 
the  culprit,  the  court  barber  shaving  his  head  as  hair- 
less as  a  billiard  ball.  After  the  shave  a  coat  of  red 
paint  was  applied  to  his  scalp,  after  which  the  court 
kicked  him  out  of  his  office,  as  fine  a  looking  fellow 
as  ever  broke  open  a  smoke-house. 

On  the  arrival  of  the  civil  officials  in  Alaska,  the 
commander  of  the  naval  vessel  stationed  there  denied 
social  recognition  to  the  plebian  representatives  of  the 
Government,  removing  his  vessel  to  Juneau  in  con- 
tempt of  their  presence  at  Sitka,  a  proceeding  privately 
condemned  by  other  officers  of  the  ship.  In  his  re- 
port to  the  department,  the  lieutenant-commander,  as 
reported  in  the  Army  and  Navy  Journal^  gave  as  the 
reason  of  such  removal :  "  In  order  to  secure  a  better 
harbor  during  an  anticipated  equinoctial  storm,"  a 
reason  absurd,  owing  to  the  fact  that  Sitka  harbor  is 
exceptionally  secure,  while  that  of  Juneau  is  to  a 
degi-ee  insecure. 

In  recognition  of  the  courteous  treatment  accorded 
them  by  the  naval  officer,  writers  on  The  Alaskan 
kept  him  stiiTcd  up  with  compliments  in  the  way  of 
pointed  paragraphs  pertinent  to  his  (juibbling.  Speci- 
mens thereof  are  here  appended  : 


-■i«if>t,>Mfl  KMMWiWlfcBUi 


5  power,  and 
)ffender,  and 
lourt  opened, 
ets  to  their 
iflieted  upon 
head  as  hair- 
,  coat  of  red 
ah  the  court 
oking  fellow 

Alaska,  the 
there  denied 
atives  of  the 
leau  in  con- 
ing privately 
In  his  re- 
inmander,  as 
,  gave  as  the 
cure  a  better 
il  storm,"  a 
ka  harbor  is 
eau   is   to   a 

ent  accorded 
^he  Alaskan 
1  the  way  of 
ling.     Speci- 


THE   ALASKAN. 


165 


Fears  are  entertained  for  the  safetj-  of  the  e(|uinoctial  storm, 
now  overdue.  The  arrival  of  the  Army  and  Navy  Journal  is 
anxiously  awaited.     It  may  have  tidings  from  it. 

Hoop-e-la !  The  mail  steamer  is  due  !  There's  going  to  be  a 
wedfiiiifr,  and  the  gunboat  is  safe  at  Juneau  !     Arise  and  sing  I 

"  An  anchorage  I've  found, 
Where's  good  holding  grf)und, 
To  dwell  I'm  determined 
At  this  mining  town." 

Such  was  The  Alaskan  in  1885-86.  A  copy  of  the 
initial  number  was  sent  to  all  prominent  journals  in 
the  country,  and  the  complimentary  notices  it  received 
were  greater  in  number  and  emphasis  than  ever  before 
accorded  to  a  country  newspaper — the  New  York 
Herald  devoting  a  column  to  quotations  therefrom. 


~^^^r^W^fl''V.1^^W^"-t 


166 


.SKETCHES    OK   ALASKA. 


CHAPTER  III. 

GOVERNMENT     BUILDINGS. 

The  historic  structures  at  Sitka,  known  as  the  Gov- 
ernment Buihlings,  consisted  of  Baranoff  Castle, 
recently  destroyed  by  fire,  the  Barracks,  so  called  by 
the  Russians,  and  the  Customs  House.  These  build- 
ings are  massive,  and  of  much  solidity  in  their  con- 
struction. The  outer  walls  and  hall  partitions  are  of 
tind)er8  twenty-four  inches  scjuare  throughout,  other 
timbers,  joists  and  posts  are  twelve  inches  square. 
When  laid,  each  wall  timber  had  its  top  hollowed  to 
receive  the  rounded  bottom  of  its  rider.  Before  re- 
ceiving its  rider,  each  timber  was  secured  in  its  place 
by  copper  bolts,  one  and  one-half  inches  in  diameter, 
driven  through  into  the  second  lower  one.  These 
buildings  were  intended  to  be  earthquake-proof,  their 
predecessors  having  been  tumbled  down  by  such  dis- 
turbances in  1827. 

The  Barracks  in  size  is  eighty  by  ninety  feet  on  the 
ground,  and  three  stories  high,  each  story  divided  by  a 
hall  ten  feet  in  width.  The  outer  walls  are  covered 
with  siding  painted  a  dingy  yellow.  This  building  was 
the  military  headquarters  of  the  Russians,  but  Uncle 
Sam  has  accorded  to  it  a  more  peaceable  existence. 
The  lower  story  is  the  territorial  prison.  In  the  sec- 
ond story  are  the  offices  of  the  civil  officials  and  their 


GOVERNMENT    BUILDINGS. 


167 


as  the  Gov- 
loff  Castle, 
o  called  by 
rhese  build- 
»  their  con- 
tions  are  of 
hout,  other 
hes  square, 
hollowed  to 
Before  re- 
in its  place 
n  diameter, 
»ne.  These 
proof,  their 
y  such  dis- 

feet  on  the 
ivided  by  a 
ire  covered 
uilding  was 
but  Uncle 
5  existen'je. 
In  the  sec- 
9  and  their 


sleeping  apartments,  rent  free.  The  upper  story  is 
devoted  to  the  court  rooms  of  the  United  States 
District  Court. 

The  reason  these  buildings  were  bolted  with  copper, 
when  iron  would  have  answered  as  well,  was  explained 
by  an  old  resident  of  Sitka.  When  the  Russians  were 
trading  with  the  Sandwich  Islands  from  Sitka,  there 
was  a  ship-yai'd  at  the  latter  place  where  many  vessels 
were  built.  When  the  buildings  were  commenced, 
the  work  was  delayed  by  the  non-arrival  of  the  vessel 
from  Russia  having  on  board  the  iron  for  the  new 
buildings.  Baranoff,  learnl..^-  that  the  vessel  had 
been  wrecked,  ordered  work  on  the  buildings  to  pro- 
ceed, using  a  quantity  of  copper  bolts  then  on  hand 
at  the  ship-yard.  Some  of  the  timbers  next  to  the 
ground  have  decayed,  vhere  the  copper  bolts  are 
plainly  visible. 

Like  the  island  on  which  it  stood,  the  Castle  took  its 
name  from  the  Russian  Governor  Baranoff,  who  was 
educated  a  tyrant  in  the  Siberian  school  of  horrors, 
and  his  reign  at  Sitka  attested  the  high  grade  of  that 
institution.  There  he  ruled  "with  a  tyranny  that 
began  with  the  knont,  and  ended  with  the  axe." 

Prior  to  the  advent  of  Baranoff,  two  attempts  to 
found  a  settlement  on  the  island  were  made  by  the 
Russians  under  protection  of  the  Archangel  Gabriel, 
but  in  both  cases,  the  protection  failed  to  protect  the 
colony  from  massacre  by  the  natives. 


3*rWS5S!EWi5!S3SS**WWW*'5 


168 


SKETCHES   OF   ALASKA. 


In  1801  Baranoff  came,  bringing  guns  and  gun- 
powder, to  which  t)ie  Indians  paid  more  deference  than 
to  the  Muscovite  religion.  Baranoff  rebuilt  and  forti- 
fied the  town.  A  line  of  stockade  and  two  block- 
houses of  his  fortification  are  still  in  evidence  at  Sitka. 
The  famous  Baranolf  Castle,  recently  burned,  was  con- 
structed similar  to  the  Barracks,  in  size  75  by  125, 
with  two  stories  and  dome.  It  was  situated  on  a  rocky 
eminence,  rising  sixty  feet  perpendicular  from  the  level, 
having  a  top  surface  of  about  one-fourth  of  an  acre  in 
extent.  Baranoff  fortified  the  elevation  with  batteries 
of  cannon — the  historic  guns  being  still  at  Sitka — the 
property  of  Uncle  Sam. 

An  interesting  sketch  of  history  concerning  the 
Castle,  is  given  by  Mrs.  General  Collis,  of  which  the 
following  is  an  extract : 

"  It  will  be  difficult  to  work  the  imagination  up  to  the  point  of 
believing  that  this  now  desolate  old  place  was  once  the  home  of 
nobility — the  scene  of  festivities,  given  with  imperial  sanction 
and  ceremony,  but  such  is  the  fact.  Here  princes  and  ])rincesses 
of  the  blood  royal  have  eaten  their  caviare,  quaffed  their  vodhka, 
and  measured  a  minuet,  surrounded  by  a  court,  fresh  from  the 
palaces  of  Moscow  and  St.  Petersburg  It  was  in  this  very  house 
that  Lady  Franklin  spent  several  weeks  of  her  aged  life  in  the 
hope  that  she  might  find  some  trace — dead  or  alive— of  her  ad- 
venturous husband,  Sir  John.  It  was  here  that  Secretary  Seward 
resided  for  a  time,  when  on  his  trip  to  see  with  his  own  eyes  the 
vast  territory  peacefully  acquired  for  his  country,  by  the  sagacity 
of  himself  and  Senator  Sumner,  at  a  cost  of  two  cents  per  acre." 

Until  recently,  the  martial  force  of  Alaska  was 
wholly  naval.     One  vessel  is  stationed  at  Sitka,  where 


NATIVE   INDIANS. 


169 


s  and  guii- 
erence  than 
It  and  forti- 

two  block- 
ce  at  Sitka, 
id,  was  con- 
rS  by  126, 

on  a  rocky 
m  the  level, 

an  acre  in 
:h  batteries 
Sitka — the 

erning   the 
which  the 

I  the  point  of 
the  home  of 
rial  sanction 
id  princesses 
heir  vodhlca, 
sh  from  the 
s  very  house 
1  life  in  the 
— of  her  ad- 
stary  Seward 
»wn  eyes  the 
the  sagacity 
ts  per  acre." 

laska   was 
tka,  where 


she  is  idle  nine  months  of  the  year.     In  summer  a  tour 
of  the  archipelago  is  usually  made.     A  naval  store- 
house is  established  at  Sitka,  and  other  naval  vessels 
are  frequent  in  the  harbor.     Some  of  the  officers  have 
their  families  at  Sitka,  housed  on  shore,  their  assign- 
ment to  that  station  meaning  three  years  absence  from 
a  distant  home.     They  are  pleasant  and  joyous  people, 
who,  together  with  the  civil  officials  and  their  families, 
constitute  a  social  community  cemented  with  a  sym- 
pathy born  of   nmtual   deprivation  of   the  society  of 
relatives  and  friends  while  resident   on  that  distant 
evergreen  shore.     Life  at  Sitka  is  usually  agreeable, 
the   climate    is   genial,   the   surroundings   novel    and 
picturesque,    living    facilities    are    good,    and     with 
more   frequent  communication  with  the  iniside  world, 
Sitka  would  be    far   from   an   undesirable   place   for 
residence. 

NATIVE   INDIANS. 

Adjoining  the  town  of  Sitka  on  the  north  is  the 
Indian  Ranch,  containing  about  seven  or  eight  hun- 
dred swarthy  natives.  The  Indians  of  Southeastern 
Alaska  are  a  race  distinct  from  those  of  the  Western 
tribes  in  America.  Their  race  name  is  Klingets. 
Their  outward  characteristic  are  coarse  hair,  black 
and  straight,  large  black  eyes,  thick  lips  and  flat 
faces;  generally  of  medium  stature,  and  well-devel- 
oped  chests,  arms   and   shoulders,  while   their   lower 


■  *.t-i«rs^KJ^itie- Taa^**e»««^.*ii*;wK-i''  v  jiii  -. 


170 


SKETCH  KB   OK    ALASKA. 


liinl)H  are  Hhriiiikcn  and  crooked.  Miioh  of  their  life 
is  spent  in  their  canoes,  8<|nHtting  on  their  feet  and 
ankles  for  a  seat,  hence  their  defoniiity,  while  their 
constant  pa«ldling  deveh)|)s  their  breast,  arniH  and 
shoulders.  They  have  no  tril)al  relations,  hut  flock  in 
families,  so  called,  on  separate  islands,  which  they 
claim  as  their  exclusive  domain.  The  memhers  of 
each  family,  tiie  Sitkans  for  instance,  assume  bh)od 
relationship ;  all  ant  parents  uncles,  cousins  and  aunts, 
and  they  do  not  intermarry.  When  a  man  wants  a 
wif<;  he  goes  to  another  island  and  buys  one,  paying 
therefor  an  agreed  nund)er  of  blankets,  which,  with 
them,  are  a  legal  tender  to  the  amount  of  two  silver 
dollars.  If  the  suitor  is  rejected,  his  lacerated  affec- 
tions are  soo  I  to  a  normal  state  by  a  payment  of 
blanket  >  to  him.  Ilis  enterprise  fails  not  ol  reward — 
either  a  wife  or  a  bundle  of  blankets.  When  com- 
jwlled  to  take  gold  coin  in  trade,  they  go  directly  to  a 
trader  and  get  it  changed  to  silver.  They  detect  spuri- 
ous silver  readily,  but  are  suspicions  of  gold,  nui-sing 
a  legend  that  long  ago  a  trading  ves.sel  visited  the 
islands  and  imposed  u)>on  their  ancestors  a  quantity  of 
spurious  gold  coin. 

Unlike  other  Indians,  the  men  perform  the  drudgery. 
The  women  are  the  bosses  and  untie  the  'iirse-strings. 
Nothing  is  bought  or  sold  without  their  consent.  With 
them  this  system  has  the  best  results,  as  it  undoubt- 
edly would  have  in  many  civilized  communities.     They 


"II 


NATIVE    INDIANS. 


171 


of  their  life 
eir  feet  and 

while  their 
,  arms  and 
hut  floik  in 
whieh  tiiey 
nienihers  of 
Hinne  blood 
i  and  aunts, 
lan  wants  a 
one,  paying 
whieh,  with 

two  silver 
rated  affec- 
|)ayment  of 
f  reward — 
iVhen  coin- 
ireetly  to  a 
eteet  spuri- 
Id,  nursing 
visited  the 
quantity  of 

!  drudgery, 
pse-strings. 
snt.  With 
;  undoubt- 
ies.     They 


are  sharp  traders,  getting  more  for  what  they  sell  and 
paying  less  for  wh..  they  buy,  whisky  excepted,  than 
any  other  jjeople  1  ever  heard  of.  Put  a  score  or  iiH.re 
of  them  into  Chatham  street  an. I  within  a  few  years 
they  would  own  the  street. 

The  Klingets     litain  their  subsistence  mostly  from 
the  sea.     They  eat  the  flesh  of  animals  but  sparingly. 
All  kinds  of  fish  and  other  sea  life  are  their  main  food 
sui)plies.     They  have  two  annual  festivals — the  Hulmon 
and   the  berry  f.stiwils.     These  are   celebrateil   by  a 
procession  of    -anoes  <lecorated  with  green  twigs  and 
small  flags  daul>ed  with  images  of  the  raven,  fish,  bear 
and  other  animal.^.     The  salmon  festival  is  for  the  lib- 
eral run  of   salmon,   and    th.    berry   festival    for  the 
abundant   yield   of   wild   berries    the  season    brought 
forth.      A    long    procession    of     canoes    filled    with 
dusky  natives,   who  paddle  about  the  harbor  singing 
a  wild  refrain    the   live-long   day,   with   a   feast    and 
carousal  at  night,  are  the  salmon  and  berry  festivals 
at   Sitka. 

Among  the  wild  berries  of  Alaska,  the  salmon 
berry,  so  called  irom  its  vermilion  color,  like  the  meat 
of  a  salmon,  is  pre-eminent.  Conical  in  shape,  and, 
when  ripe,  tlu'  size  of  a  large  horse-chestnut,  they 
are  in  appearance  inviting  and  of  delicious  flavor. 
When  leaving  the  country  a  keen  regret  was  the 
parting  with  the  salmon  berry 


if 
■•ii 


.?»U-   '-K>  ^^w^V 


172 


HKETCHEH    OK    AI.ANKA. 


NATIVK    HANUIWOKK. 

Tlie  cnnovH  piuldlud  over  AlaHkan  watern  are  coin- 
plute  (lug-outH,  fruiii  what  must  have  heen,  in  Hoiue 
«'aHeH,  iiionarehH  of  the  f(»i'eHt.  Their  uhellH  range  from 
one  to  three  incheH  in  thickneHH,  and  in  length  they 
range  from  nine  to  seventy  feet,  ami  with  )>ro])ortionate 
wiilth  and  depth.  A  war  eanoe  at  Sitka  in  sixty  feet 
in  length,  mx  feet  in  width,  and  twenty-eight  inchcH 
deep,  with  a  ))roje<!ting  prow  at  either  end,  five  feet 
long.  ItH  bottom  and  sides,  inboard  and  outboard, 
are  as  smooth  as  planed  marble,  and  in  its  entire  length 
does  not  present  a  flaw.  The  model  of  this  mammoth 
canoe  is  as  symmetrical  as  a  pleasure  yacht  in  waters 
of  civilization.  The  natives  navigate  their  canoes 
expertly,  wielding  paddles  as  dexterously  as  a  cowboy 
manages  a  mustang. 

The  Klingets  are  a  festive  race,  paying  much  atten- 
tion to  their  amusements — potlaohing,  dancing,  gam- 
bling and  canoe-racing — and  have  a  keen  relish  for  the 
fantastic.  The  stock  of  masks  of  a  family  are  num- 
bered by  hundreds,  presenting  faces  old,  young,  weird 
and  horrid — mostly  horrid — and  all  of  home  manufac- 
ture. Seemingly,  by  nature,  they  are  endowed  with  a 
faculty  for  carving  on  woo<I,  stone,  slate,  and  on  the 
softer  metals.  Their  work  in  silver — rings,  bracelets 
and  like  trinkets,  which  they  sell  to  the  whites — is  of 
extraordinary  merit.     Their  working  tool  for  carving 


NATIVB    HANDIWOHK. 


173 


ft*  are  com- 
'ih  ill  Huino 
raiiffe  from 
eiigth  they 
oportionate 
»  sixty  feet 
ight  inchcH 
I,  five  feet 

outboard, 

itire  length 

inanimoth 

in  waters 
Bir  (>anoeH 
1  a  eowboy 

uch  atten- 
L'ing,  garn- 
ish for  the 

are  num- 
ing,  weird 

manufac- 
ed  with  a 
id  on  the 

bracelets 
tes — is  of 
r  carving 


is  tiHiuilly  an  old  jack-knife,  ground  to  a  point.     They 
carve  iu»ige«  of  aninials  and  birds,  from  which  is  as- 
sumed  their  respective  families  sprung— the  bear,  the 
raven,  and   so  on.     Sculptured   totem   p«»les,  some   of 
which    are  thirty    feet   high,  stand  in  their   ranches, 
to  wl>ich   they   pay   homage.     They   daub   images   on 
theii  ( anocs,  patldles  an«l  masks  with  a  brush  nmde  of 
jroat  hair,  and  obtain  (fohirs  from  the  juices  of  roots. 
The  basket  work  of  the  women  is  superior  to  a  great 
degree,  some  of  which  is  so  firmly  constructed  as  to 
hold  water.     Their  horn  spoons  are  a  superior  article. 
They  take   the   horn    of    the   mountain   goat,  saw  it 
lengthwise,  and  soak  in  hot  water  until  pliable,  then 
press   on    a    wooden    model    into   si)oon    shape,    and 
then  the  handles  are  carved  with  surprising  excellence. 
With  the  sjwons  they  feast  out  of  bowls  made  of  horn 
or  wood,  elaborately  carved.     The   C'hilkat   blankets, 
made  by  the  family  of  that  name  in  former  times,  bnt 
now  a  lost  art,  i)robably,  are  the  most  unique  article 
of  savage  manufacture.    They  are  woven  from  the  long 
hair  of  the  mountain  sheep  and  goat,  and  are  used  for 
decoration  when  dancing  and  mascpierading.    They  are 
in  color  a  combination  of  black,  white,  blue  and  yellow, 
and  figured  emblematical  of  family  genealogy  and  her- 
aldry.    They  are  held  as  heirlooms  by  the  more  opu- 
lent families,  and  at  times  are  sold  to  tourists  for  from 
one  hundred  to  three  hundred  dollars  each,  according 
to  their  condition  and  quality  of  make. 


■o*W*e-5«.»i^'W-.«3«lf«R«PfctBi'-«r.*fvA^*>*'«-«»*' -»-»■> 


174 


SKETCHES    OF    ALASKA. 


SUPERSTITIONS. 

When  an  Alaska  Indian  dies  in  a  house,  his  body  is 
not  taken  out  through  the  doorway,  but  out  the  smoke- 
hole  in  the  roof.  This  in  order — to  borr(^w  a  journal- 
istic phrase — to  make  a  scoop  on  the  evil  ipirit.  When 
charged  with  witchcraft,  they  cremate  the  body  of  the 
dead.  I  witnessed  the  ceremonies  on  such  an  occasion 
at  Sitka.  First,  1  insjiected  the  crematory.  It  was 
a  crib  structure  of  green  balsam  logs,  in  size  about  six 
feet  long,  two  feet  wide  and  five  feet  deep,  half  filled 
with  dry  kindlings,  saturated  with  coal  oil.  AVhen 
entering  the  house  I  saw  the  corpse  sitting  bolt 
upright  in  a  corner,  on  the  floor,  ?iid  from  feet  to 
armpits  sewed  up  in  a  dirty  blanket,  leaving  head, 
shoulders  and  arms  bare.  It  was  a  withered,  dried-up 
old  man,  weighing  about  seventy  pounds.  He  looked 
like  a  witch,  and  I  half  believe  he  had  been  one — at 
least  I  justified  the  supposition.  A  mourner  raised 
the  body  and  j)oked  it  through  the  smoke-hole,  and 
another,  on  the  roof,  seized  it  and  carried  it  down 
and  dumped  it  into  the  crib.  With  the  deceased 
was  deposited  his  personal  property,  consisting  of  an 
ancient  shot-gun,  a  butcher  knife,  a  couple  of  blankets, 
and  sundry  trinkets.  Then  the  crib  was  filled  up  and 
covered  with  dry  wood,  when  more  coal  oil  was  poured 
on  and  the  thing  set  on  fire.  Then  a  dozen  of  the 
mourners  joined  hands  and  circled  aiOi<;?d  the  burning 
pile,  howling  doleful  lamentations,  joined  by  a  chorus 


j'ii5-LHL'.g.s."M:j-i; 


e,  his  body  is 
ut  the  sinoke- 
(.w  a  journal- 
pirit.     When 
!  body  of  the 
ti  an  occasion 
ory.     It  was 
ize  about  six 
p,  half  filled 
oil.     When 
sitting    bolt 
'rom  feet  to 
aving   head, 
•ed,  dried-up 
He  looked 
een  one — at 
urner  raised 
ke-hole,  and 
ed   it  down 
ic   deceased 
sting  of  an 
jf  blankets, 
lUed  up  and 
was  poured 
)zen  of  the 
the  burning 
by  a  chorus 


COMPENSATION. 


175 


of  wolf  dogs  in  concert,  until  the  fire  burned  out. 
Then  they  put  the  roasted  carcass  into  a  wooden  box 
about  three  feet  square,  having  a  gable  roof,  placing  it 
with  a  congregation  of  the  like  in  their  cemetery,  above 
ground.     They  looked  like  a  village  of  dog-houses. 

The  original  traders  to  the  Pacific  coast  came  in 
ships  from  Boston,  hence  all  wliites  are  called  "Bos- 
ton men"  by  the  natives.  When  a  mining  company 
imported  Mexican  burros  for  packing  to  the  mine,  in 
deference  to  their  elongated  ears  the  natives  called 
them  "  Boston  rabbits." 

COMPENSATION. 

When  employed  by  or  in  company  of  whites,  an 
Indian  is  killed  or  injured,  his  family  demand  compen- 
sation therefor,  either  in  money  or  blankets.  At  Sitka 
an  Indian  in  jail  stabbed  himself  to  death  with  a  pair 
of  pointed  scissors,  snatched  from  a  fellow-prisoner, 
who  was  mending  his  clothing.  A  hundred  or  more 
Indians  then  proceeded  to  the  Marshal's  office  and 
demanded  three  hundred  blankets  for  the  death  of  their 
brother. 

A  miner  employed  a  native  to  pack  some  drills  to 
his  claim,  and  before  starting  gave  him  a  drink  of 
whisky  from  a  bottle  taken  from  a  cupboard.  The 
Indian's  squaw  entered  the  door  in  time  to  see  the 
bottle  replaced,  and  she  subsequently  returned,  broke 
into  the  cabin,  and  drank  two  bottles  of  the  miner's 


^  '>WWI«Al»»FP!?»rt«SW»W!»sa«^  -. 


.  ■■M*JwaM*«»v  ■' 


SKETCHES   OF   ALASKA. 


176 


whisky.  The  next  day  she  was  found  dead  on  the 
floor  of  the  cabin.  Her  family  demanded  one  hundred 
blankets  of  the  miner,  which  he  paid,  in  order  to 
exempt  himself  from  a  parlous  state.  The  barbarous 
demand  of  an  eye  for  an  eye  and  a  tooth  for  a  tooth  is 
their  creed,  and,  unless  pacified,  someone  may  be  found 
dead— a  life  taken  in  compensation ;  be  he  guilty  or 
mnocent,  there  is  no  distinction  in  that  respect. 

No  sense  of  gratitude  abides  with  these  natives, 
other  than  a  seeming  acknowledgment  of  the  benefi- 
cence of  the  Great  Spirit,  evinced  in  their  salmon  and 
berry  festivals.  A  fishing  schooner  was  scudding 
before  a  furious  gale  of  wind  out  at  sea,  when  two 
Indians  in  a  canoe  were  espied,  who  had  been  blown 
off  the  coast.  The  Indians  were  rescued,  but  owing 
to  the  severity  of  the  tempest  their  canoe  was  lost. 
The  master  of  the  schooner  landed  the  rescued  men  at 
their  village,  where  a  demand  for  pay  for  the  lost 
canoe  was  made,  joined  by  the  men  whose  lives  he  had 
saved.  Apparently  a  heart  is  not  included  in  their 
anatomy,  but  in  lieu  thereof  they  have  a  gizzard. 

When  aged  sixteen  the  children  in  the  Industrial 
School  usually  return  to  the  ranches,  but  exist  differ- 
ently. They  eat  off  tables  and  crockery,  use  knives 
and  forks,  sit  on  chairs,  wear  store  clothes,  play  iK>ker, 
and  whip  their  wives,  like  other  half-civilized  people. 


um»iiam»»n  k.j  ■  ubw 


176 

dead  on  the 
one  hundred 
in  order  to 
le  barbarous 
or  a  tooth  is 
lay  be  found 
he  guilty  or 
ipect. 
ese   natives, 

the  benefi- 

salmon  and 

18   scudding 

.,  when  two 

been  blown 

but  owing 
)e  was  lost, 
ued  men  at 
or  the  lost 
lives  he  had 
ed  in  their 
zzard. 

Industrial 
exist  differ- 
use  knives 
play  jwker, 
i  people. 


JUNEAU. 


CHAPTER   IV. 


JUNEAU. 


177 


The  American-built  town  of  Alaska  is  Juneau, 
named  for  Joseph  Juneau,  a  descendant  of  the  Mack- 
inaw, Green  Bay  and  Milwaukee  family  of  that  name, 
who,  in  1880,  first  discovered  its  adjacent  gold  deposits. 
The  town  is  situated  on  Gasteneau  Channel,  a  passage 
of  deep  salt  water  nearly  a  mile  wide,  dividing  Douglas 
Island  from  the  main  shore.  By  the  channels  among 
and  around  islands  Juneau  is  about  one  hundred  and 
eighty  miles  northeast  of  Sitka.  Together  with  Doug- 
las City  and  the  extensive  gold  mine  on  the  island 
opposite — virtually  one  comnnmity — there  now  is  a 
population  of  about  five  thousand.  The  town  is 
located  at  the  mouth  of  Gold  Creek,  a  small  stream 
tumbling  down  a  gorge  between  mountains  3,000  feet 
high,  which  wail  the  town  on  three  sides,  whci-e  it  is 
picturesquely  nestled.  Following  up  a  winding  and 
ascending  gulch  for  three  miles,  you  come  to  Silver 
Bow  Basin,  a  large  area  encircled  by  mountain-tops. 
Here  are  the  famous  placer  diggings,  where  many  thou- 
sarfds  of  dollars  of  gold-dust  and  nuggf  ts  have  been 
gathered  by  the  sturdy  miners  who  founded  and  built 
up  Juneau. 

The  miners  and  tratlers  of  .Juneau  are  of  the  better 
class  of  American  pioneers,  who  in  early  manhood  left 


Si  .a 


tedfiF*^ 


178 


SKETCHES    OF    ALASKA. 


their  homes  to  inarch  over  the  plains  and  nionntains  to 
the  Pacific  Slope,  and  there  grew  up  with  the  sage- 
brush, and  since  have  prospected  the  gravel  beds  of 
the  mountain  streams  from  Mexico  to  Alaska,  men 
whose  general  characterisMcs  are  generosity,  fidelity 
and  honor,  and  who  live  in  full  confidence  of  the 
integrity  of  each  otJ-.er.  Should  one  prove  unfaithful, 
his  case  is  duly  considered,  and,  when  adjudged  guilty, 
he  is  warned  to  leave  the  country,  and,  for  prudential 
reasons,  such  warnings  are  promptly  obeyed. 

CLIMATE   AND    VEGETATION. 

The  climate  of  Alaska  is  as  varied  as  that  of  the 
country  extejuling  from  Hudson  Bay  to  the  (lulf  of 
Mexico.  The  Pacific  Coast  and  the  Aleutian  Islands 
receive  the  warm  breath  of  the  Japan  current,  provi- 
ding those  portions  with  a  winter  climate  of  the  temper- 
ature of  the  States  of  Maryland  and  Tennessee.  The 
island  of  Attou,  an  American,  lying  in  the  waters  of 
the  Elastern  Hemisphere,  has  a  climate  as  genial  as 
that  of  Italy.  The  annual  rain-fall  on  Southern  Alaska 
is  eighty  inches,  about  double  that  of  the  Middle  States. 
Usually  it  is  a  continuous  drizzle  for  a  week  or  more, 
facetiously  called  a  dry  rain,  as  clothes  hung  u..^.er  a 
shed  will  dry  during  a  down-pour.  Shoes  do  not  mould 
nor  clothing  become  musty  in  the  dampest  weather. 
Up  north,  i)i  the  valley  of  the  Yukon,  where  frost  pen- 
etrates the  earth  twenty  feet,  the  mercury  often  marks 
ninety  degrees  in  July  and  August.     About  seventy- 


FISHES,    FURS,    FORESTS,    ETC. 


179 


oiintaius  to 
li  the  sage- 
^el  beds  t)f 
laska,  men 
ty,  fidelity 
nee  of   the 

unfaithful, 
Iged  guilty, 

prudential 


;hat  of  the 
be  (Julf  of 
tan  Islands 
rent,  provi- 
the  teniper- 
ssee.  The 
!  waters  of 
I  genial  as 
ern  Alaska 
Idle  States, 
k  or  more, 
tig  u..1er  a 
not  mould 
t  weather, 
i  frost  pen- 
Pten  marks 
it  seventy- 


two  is  as  high  as  I  experienced  while  four  years  in 
Alaska,  and  never  at  zero. 

Alaska  is  not  a  grain  country.  The  cereals  run  to 
stalks,  and  do  not  head  and  ripen — too  much  rain  and 
not  sufficient  sunshine.  (larden  truck  grows  luxuri- 
antly and  yields  abundantly.  Many  species  of  wild 
berries  ripen  in  great  abundance. 

FISHES,    FURS,    FORESTS    AND   ANIMALS. 

Practically,  to  an  unlimited  extent,  food  fishes 
abound  in  Alaskan  waters.  Cod,  salmon,  mackerel, 
halibut  and  herring,  the  chief  fishes  of  commerce,  are 
more  abundant  than  in  other  waters  of  the  globe. 
When  aboard  ship,  and  passing  out  of  a  narrow  en- 
trance to  a  bay,  where  emptied  a  mountain  stream,  the 
captain  told  me  to  look  over  forward  and  see  the  fish. 
The  ship  was  plowing  through  a  run  of  salmon,  east- 
ing them  out  of  the  water  from  either  side  (  '  the  stem. 
So  eager  were  the  salmon  to  reach  fresh  water,  that 
the  narrow  entrance  to  the  bay  was  massed  with  fish. 

In  Alaska  furs  are  a  staple  commodity.  The  value 
of  the  pelts  annually  secured  is  counted  by  millions. 
Sea  and  land  otter,  seal  and  sea-lion,  sable-martin, 
beaver,  and  the  several  species  of  fox,  are  the  most 
valuable.  The  most  precious  of  furs  is  the  sea-otter, 
and  Alaskan  waters  supply  the  majority  of  pelts 
marketed.  For  a  prime  one  its  captor  receives  #150, 
and  Hussian  nobility  are  his  best  customers.  Next  in 
value  are  the  black,  blue,  white  and  silver  fox,  the 


if 

■  3' 


Ifl 


IK 


I 


180 


SKETCHES    OF    ALASKA. 


ipost  valuable  bringing  from  thirty  to  one  hundred 
dollars  for  green  pelts.  A  group  of  islands,  called 
Fox  Islands,  abound  with  foxes.  An  enterprising 
hunter  leased  a  smaller  one  from  Uncle  Sara,  and  has 
it  stocked  with  these  rare  animals,  which  he  feeds  and 
domesticates.  Only  the  males  are  killed.  A  fortune 
awaits  the  foxy  genius  who  has  established  a  fox-farm 
under  the  shadow  of  the  Arctic  Circle.  Alaska  is  the 
sportsman's  paradise.  Myriads  of  wild  fowl  darken 
the  waters  of  channels,  inlets,  bays  and  rivers.  ^,lou!i- . 
tain-sides  are  alive  with  grouse.  The  black  and  brown 
bear  are  plentiful  —the  white  species  adheres  to  the 
frozen  region.  The  brown  and  black  bear  are  expert 
fishermen.  When  salmon  invest  the  mountain  streams 
bruin  wades  in,  and  with  his  paw  deftly  lands  them, 
and  then  his  bearship  banquets  on  fresh  salmon. 


le  hundred 
biids,  called 
interprising 
in,  and  has 
e  feeds  and 

A  fortune 

a  fox-farm 
laska  is  the 
)wl  darken 
jrs.    ^,loi;:i- , 

and  brown 
eres  to  the 

are  expert 
lin  streams 
ands  them, 
aion. 


MINES    AND    MINERALS. 


CHAPTER    V. 


MINES   AND   MINERALS. 


181 


Almost  every  known  mineral  is  found  in  Alaska. 
Gold,  silver,  copper,  mica,  iron,  coal,  marble  and  slate 
are  most  common.  Coal  is  abundant,  cropping  out  in 
many  sections.  At  Cook's  Inlet  the  crew  of  the 
U.  S.  Cutter  Corwin  took  from  a  bank  facing  the 
water  seventy  tons  of  cannel  coal  to  the  vessel  in  small 
boats  within  eighteen  hours.  Their  mining  tools  were 
crowbars.  The  engineer  of  the  cutter  stated  that  the 
coal  was  high  grade  for  steam  purposes. 

On  Douglas  Island  is  the  largest  producing  gold 
mine  and  plant  in  the  world — an  enlarged  out-cropping, 
2,000  feet  long,  600  feet  wide  and  of  unknown  depth ; 
an  elevated  ridge  of  free  milling  decomposed  quartz, 
with  the  largest  stamp-mill  in  the  world  at  its  base. 
The  mill  has  forty-eight  1)  tteries,  with  five  head  of 
stamps  to  each  battery — in  all  240  stamps — all  under 
one  roof,  all  pounding  at  once,  and  all  operated  by 
single  power.  The  mineral  is  reduced  to  gold  l)ullion 
at  a  cost  of  less  than  one  dollar  per  ton  of  rock.  The 
mill  crushes  600  tons  of  rock  each  twenty-four  hours. 
The  rock  averages  four  dollars  per  ton,  gold.  The 
mine  and  mill  are  situated  within  200  yards  of  deep- 
water  navigation  to  all  seaports.     In  Alaska  there  are 


I'.^msJMfW'f^  'Utipiil 


182 


SKETCHES    OF    ALASKA. 


other  proilncing  mines,  but  none,  as  yet,  as  extensive 
as  the  wonderful  mine  on  Douglas  Tsland 

Placer  mining  is  extensively  prosecuted  on  the  Yu- 
kon and  its  branches  and  in  the  vicinity  of  Juneau. 
The  annual  increase  of  production  is  large.  This 
often  characterized  barren  and  frozen  region  is  the 
only  unorganized  territory  Uncle  Sam  ever  possessed 
that  paid  a  net  revenue.  Its  original  cost  has  been 
returned  to  the  treasury  by  the  seal  fisheries  alone. 
The  annual  output  of  its  mines  and  fisheries  for  the 
past  three  years  has  been  *6,000,000.  So  says  the 
Interior  Department.  The  greater  development  to 
come,  probably,  will  not  be  over-estimated. 


YUKON    RIVEK. 

The  majestic  Yukon  rises  somewhere  in  the  unex- 
plored region  of  British  America,  entering  Alaska 
near  the  fifty-ninth  parallel,  thence  it  courses  north- 
westerly to  the  Arctic  Circle ;  thence  southwesterly  to 
the  Behring  Sea.  Steamboats  drawing  four  feet  of 
water  ascend  the  river  2,000  miles  from  its  mouth. 
Some  of  its  numerous  branches  are  alike  navigable  for 
300  miles.  When  flowing  southwest  in  Alaska  its 
usual  width  is  about  five  miles,  interspersed  with 
numerous  islands.  It  empties  into  the  sea  through 
four  separate  channels,  having  a  distance  of  100  miles 
across  its  mouths  and  deltas.  In  the  interior  at  times 
it  widens  to  twenty  miles,  forming  a  chain  of  lakes 


II 


YUKON    RIVER. 


188 


8  extensive 

311  the  Yu- 
of  Juneau, 
irge.  This 
gion  is  the 
r  possessed 
t  has  been 
sries  alone, 
'ies  for  the 
\o  says  the 
iopment   to 


the  unex- 
ng  Alaska 
rses  north- 
westerly to 
>ur  feet  of 
its  mouth, 
.vigable  for 
Alaska  its 
ersed  with 
ja  through 
f  100  miles 
or  at  times 
in  of  lakes 


navigable  throughout  their  area.  The  mountain  por- 
tions of  the  Yukon  and  its  branches  abound  in  pre- 
cious metals,  and  that  remote  region  is  at  the  present 
writing  the  objective  point  of  many  adventurous  spirits 
seeking  the  yellow  metal. 

"The  above  account  of  the  Yukon  was  written  in 
1889,  and  now,  that  gold  in  abundant  quantities  has 
been  found  in  the  region,  the  world  will  soon  know 
more  of  that  distant  and  resourceful  country. 

When  at  Juneau  in  October,  1886,  a  party  of  thirty 
miners  arrived  there  fresh  from  the  Yukon  country, 
coming  out  over  the  Chilcoot  trail,  headed  by  the 
brothers  Dinsmore,  of  California.  They  went  in  by 
the  same  route  the  pi-evious  month  of  March.  At  the 
time,  a  monthly  steamer  was  the  only  conveyance  out  of 
Alaska  to  civilization,  and  which  the  miners  missed  by 
three  days.  Then  they  went  to  the  supply  store  of  W. 
F.  Reed,  a  well-known  old  miner,  to  deposit  their  gold, 
which,  in  deer-skin  bags,  they  unrolled  from  their  packs 
of  blankets.  Reed  removed  from  his  safe  books  and 
shelves  and  then  proceeded  to  stow  therein  the  weighty 
little  sacks,  in  the  manner  of  placing  brick  in  a  cart. 
When  all  were  stowed  the  door  refused  to  close  suffi- 
cient to  be  locked,  but  Reed  vigoi-ously  flung  his  num- 
ber eleven  boot  against  the  bags  for  a  time,  and  finally 
succeeded  in  locking  the  safe  door.  The  party  had 
about  #33,000,  obtained  from  the  gravel  beds  of  Lewis 
River,  a  branch  of  the  Yukon. 


»w^*.W»T««-^iVa^.-.*'«*i»ft**«t««K»i*Pt-X'*'i.- 


184 


8KKTCIIKS    <»K    AI,At*KA. 


VOLCANOES    ANI>   (JLACIEUH. 

In  1887  naval  officers  reported  officially  that  there 
were  then  seven  active  volcanoes  on  the  Aleutian 
Islands.  Recent  reports  represent  a  more  general 
awakening  of  these  subterranean  fires,  there  now  being 
more  tlian  twenty  of  heretofore  extinct  craters,  belch- 
ing out  tire  and  cinders.  The  show  of  such  force  now 
in  action  in  Alaska  is  the  greatest  known  to  the  conti- 
nent. IJogaslow,  and  an  adjacent  island,  recently 
separated  by  two  miles  of  deep  water,  are  now  one 
island.  The  newly  api)earing  teirajirma  is  as  smooth 
and  blaok  as  if  just  from  a  molten  state.  Of  the 
majestic  scenery  of  Alaska,  these  burning  mountains 
are  an  important  portion. 

Our  pen  is  unable  to  fully  describe  the  grandeur  of 
the  huge  glaciers  that  come  down  to  the  sea  from  the 
mountains  of  Alaska.  Prof.  John  Muir,  the  explorer 
of  the  glacier  named  for  him,  gives  its  face  dimensions 
thus : 

The  front  is  about  three  miles  wide.  The  height  of  the  wall 
of  ice  is  about  three  liundred  feet,  but  soundings  show  that  seven 
hundred  feet  of  the  glacier  is  under  water,  while  still  a  third 
portion  is  buried  in  moraine  material.  Were  the  water  and  rocky 
detnttis  away,  a  wall  of  solid  ice  would  be  presented  more  than 
one  thousand  feet  high.  Five  miles  back  of  its  face  the  ice  is 
ten  miles  wide.  This  one  glacier  contains  more  ice  than  the  1,100 
glaciers  of  the  Alps  combined. 

When  considered  that  this  world  of  ice  is  crowded 
down  to  the  sea  between  mountain  walls  forty  feet  per 


VOLCANOK8    AND   GLACIEK8. 


186 


that  there 
!  Aleutian 
re  general 
now  being 
ters,  belch- 
force  now 
the  conti- 
!,  recently 
I  now  one 
m  smooth 
,  Of  the 
mountains 

pandeur  of 

from  the 

e  explorer 

[imensions 


of  the  wall 
r  that  seven 
itill  a  third 
iraiid  rocky 
more  than 
9  the  ice  is 
ui  the  1,100 

crowded 
Y  feet  per 


day.  human  imagination  may  estimate  the  volume  of 
rumble  and  roar  attendant  upon  its  tumble  from  a 
height  into  the  sea.  Imagine  a  huge  iceberg  of  the 
bulk  of  the  Ellicott  Square  building — many  are  larger 
— tumbling  from  a  height  into  deep  water.  When  on 
sliip-board,  anchored  two  miles  away,  on  such  an 
occasion,  the  first  to  come  is  a  tremendous  crash,  fol- 
lowed, as  Prof.  Muir  faithfully  describes,  by  a  deepi 
deliberate,  long  drawn  out,  thundering  roar.  Then 
rolling  comes  a  monster  wave,  causing  the  ship  to  roll 
as  if  struggling  with  the  like  in  an  ocean  tempest. 

The  Muir  glacier  (monies  down  to  the  sea  from  a 
range  of  lofty  mountains,  where  stand  in  line  the  three 
majesties,  Mt.  Crillon,  Mt.  Fairweather  and  Mt. 
La  Perouse,  the  lowest  of  wliich  penetrates  15,000  feet 
skywaril. 

Taku  glacier,  occasionally  witnessed  by  tourists,  is 
as  high  as  the  Muir,  V)ut  not  more  than  a  mile  wide. 
In  the  sunlight,  when  from  its  face  is  reflected  the 
varied  and  radiant  colors  of  the  rainbow,  it  is  mag- 
nificently beautiful  to  behold. 

The  mammoth  glacier  that  comes  down  to  the  sea 
from  Mount  St.  Elias,  presents  on  its  front  a  wall  of 
blue-tinged  ice  four  hundred  feet  high  and  thirty  miles 
wide.  The  ice  falling  from  this  monster  into  the  sea 
would  duplicate  the  glaciers  of  Switzerland  each 
month  in  the  year.  The  thundering  sounds  made  by 
icebergs,  falling  daily  from  this  huge  glacier,  would 
drown  the  roars  of  Niagara  made  in  a  thousand  years. 


irfU-*WBW««<tV*flWWsWS«*M^ff  *^-''-  'i^jPw;.?- 


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IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT  3) 


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Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  NY.  US80 

(716)  872-4503 


L. 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHIVI/iCMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


186 


SKETCHES    OF    ALASKA. 


In  ancient  times  the  great  wonders  of  the  world  were 
attributed  to  the  work  of  human  hands,  among  which 
were  the  Pyramids  of  Egypt  and  the  Colossus  of 
Rhodes.  Could  the  sages  who  conferred  such  distinc- 
tion witness  the  movement  of  an  Alaskan  glacier, 
methinks  a  revision  of  judgment  would  transfer  such 
honors  to  Nature's  wonders  in  the  New  World.  The 
Muir  glacier  alone  has  greater  majesty  than  the  mooted 
seven  wonders  of  the  world  of  ancient  times — more 
than  all  the  creation  of  human  hands  combined. 

Yet  Americans  flock  to  Europe  and  climb  the  rugged 
steeps  of  the  Alps  to  look  upon  wonderful  glaciers. 
They  gaze  with  amazement  upon  the  majesty  of  Mt. 
Blanc,  the  only  European  peer  of  an  Alaskan  moun- 
tain. They  traverse  the  Old  World  seeking  natural 
scenery  of  a  grandeur  incomparable  to  that  left  behind 
at  home,  and  by  them  unseen.  The  great  European 
niountaiti  is  not  of  surpassing  interest,  and  once  a 
Yankee  told  him  so : 

"How-de-do,  Mt.  Blanc Y     I  vow  I'm  glad  to  meet  ye! 
A  tbundering  grist  of  miles  I've  come  to  greet  ye. 
I'm  from  America,  where  we've  got  a  fountain — 
Niagara  it  is  called — where  you  might  lave 
Your  mighty  phiz ;  then  you  could  shirt  and  shave 
In  old  Kentuck — in  our  Mammoth  Cave  ; 
Or  take  a  snooze,  when  in  want  of  rest, 
On  our  big  prairies — away  out  West ; 
Or  when  you're  dry,  might  cool  your  heated  liver, 
In  sipping  up  our  Mississippi  River. 
Come  over,  Blanc— don't  make  the  least  ado, 
Briujij  Switzerland  with  you — and  the  Swiss  girls,  too  I " 


i 


"I 


B  world  were 
nioiig  which 
Colossus  of 
juch  distinc- 
tan  glacier, 
ransfer  such 
i^orld.     The 

the  mooted 
iiues — more 
lined. 

>  the  rugged 
'ul  glaciers. 
Bsty  of  Mt. 
skan  moun- 
ing  natural 

left  behind 
t  European 
tnd  once   a 

Bet  ye ! 
t  ye. 
n — 

shave 


Iver, 


iris,  too  ! " 


VOLCANOES    AND   GLACIERS. 


187 


During  the  past  decade  Alaskan  scenery  has  been 
witnessed  by  naturalists  from  many  lands,  all  of  whom 
proclaim  wonder  and  astonishment  at  its  magnificent 
grandeur.  Through  the  summer  months  twilight  re- 
mains to  the  exclusion  of  darkness,  when  the  enchanted 
traveler,  foregoing  the  pleasures  of  sleep,  remains  on 
the  deck  of  the  ship,  there  to  inhale  the  blended  fra- 
grance of  air,  land  and  water,  to  look  upoii  the  ever- 
green isles  and  islets  as  the  passing  ship  glides  o'er  the 
surface  of  the  placid  waters,  to  gaze  upon  the  recurring 
wonders  of  Nature,  to  view  the  wild  emotions  and  the 
flowing  of  the  tide.  Such  is  Alaska — our  Land  of 
the  Midnight  Sun ! 


.J'^-.sni.v      'r-i 


■  .'«'S»»•«•»lil^*Afe(7^^■#?•»*1«'»***.•^' 


188 


THE    FORESTER. 


THE    FORESTER. 

LINKS    SlGGEBTEl)    IIV  A    VISIT  TO  A    LONELY    DWELLER 
IN   THE   KOHERT  OF  ALASKA. 

A  sojourn  in  Alaska,  without  a  compeer, 
Hunting  and  trapping  and  chasing  the  deer  ; 
Sheltered  with  cojnfort  and  plenty  in  store, 
In  a  snug  little  cabin  with  ground  for  its  Hwr. 

On  a  bed  of  dry  leaves  my  limbs  find  repose. 
Proudly  I  wear  my  forest-made  clothes  ; 

A  wealth  of  warm  furs— jielts  of  my  store 

Abound  in  the  cabin  with  ground  for  its  floor. 

Smoke  from  my  wigwam  curls  high  ia  the  air, 
A  pot  of  rich  venison  is  steaming  in  there  ; 
The  latch-string  hangs  outside  on  the  door 
Of  the  neat  little  cabin  with  ground  for  its  floor. 

Welcome,  ye  nim rods— when  the  river  you  ford 
Come  to  my  shelter  and  feast  at  my  board  ; 
Three-legged  stools  stand  "  forninst"  the  door, 
In  the  snug  little  cabin  with  ground  for  its  floor. 

Ye  adorers  of  Nature,  ye  praising  divines. 
Com.-  to  the  forest  where  your  goddess  reclines  ; 
Here  gaze  upon  scenes  of  o-randeur  in  store. 
Akin  to  that  awaiting  on  the  evergreen  shore. 

Alaska  !  imperial  of  mountain,  glacier  and  braes. 
All  peerless  in  grandeur  creation  displays  ; 
A  land  rescued  from  imperious  reign, 
A  grand  accession  to  Freedom's  domain. 


REUNION. 


189 


)WEI,LER 


nor. 
'ord 

<)or. 
It's  ; 

aes, 


REUNION. 

Come,   )ld  fi:ends,  join  in  a  social  day, 

Father  Time  presses  onward — we  are  old  and  gray  ; 

In  reunion  we'll  recall  incidents  of  yore. 

Revive  old  tales  and  rhymes — have  greetings  galore. 

The  r'jcitations  of  youth — we'll  repeat  them  anew, 
As  "  fond  recollection  presents  them  to  view  "  ; 
We'll  confirm  early  readings  memory  hath  in  store. 
From  "  (juaint  and  curious  volumes  of  forgotton  lore." 

We'll  open  in  meetly  form  with  "  Holy  Willie's  Prayer," 
Then  Ichabod  will  Crane  his  neck  to  "  Tam  O'Shanter's  mare  "  ; 
That  "  CiBsar  had  his  Brutus  "  —  how  "  Wallace  bled  "  we'll  tell. 
And  that  "  Freedom  shrieked  when  Kosciusi^o  fell." 

We  will  "  swim  the  Hellespont "  and  cross  the  "  Bridge  of  Sighs," 
And  dive  "in  the  bosom  of  the  deep  where  Holland  lies"  ; 
We'll  visit  the  cosy  cottage  whose  smoke  "so  gracefully  curls," 
^Vnd  solve  the  knotty  problem,  "  what  to  do  with  our  girls." 

"  Auld  Lang  Syne  "  we'll  sing,  on  "Sweet  Home"  we'll  dwell.. 
And  seize  "  the  moss-covered  bucket  that  hung  in  the  well  "  ; 
For  the  woodman  to  "  spare  that  tree  "  we  will  implore. 
And  invoke  that  "  hard  times  comes  again  no  more." 

In  common  "  we  hold  these  truths  to  be  self-evident,"  - 
That  it  is  better  to  "be  right  than  President "  ; 
That  industrious  habits  should  "in  each  bosom  reign," 
And  that  "Truth  crushed  to  earth  shall  rise  again. " 


1 


190 


REUNION. 


Be(iueatlied  by  Washington  to  endless  fame, 

Was  the  Starry  Flag  on  land  and  ocean  main  ; 

A  flag  flaunting  Liberty  in  repellent  seas, 

Proudly  unfurled,  "  braves  the  battle  and  the  breeze. 


Bounteously  ara  we  allowed  to  "  behold  this  joyous  day," 
From  "  ignoble  strife  keep  the  noiseless  tenor  of  your  way"  ; 
The  "cannon's  opening  rour"  is  frightful  to  be  borne, 
O,  "  Ye  Ancient  Mariners,"  "  man  was  made  to  mourn." 

"  As  we  go  marching  on,"  "hand  in  hand  we'll  go," 
' '  We  hear  their  gentle  voices  calling,  our  heads  are  bending  low  "  ; 
"  Hold  the  fort !  for  we  are  coming,"  on  the  "  Swiftsure  Line," 
To  dwell  with  him  once  living  at  "  Bingen  on  the  Rhine." 


« !i<.'»iiiHiilitffl.«yiii.N  ^V)H.,^ 


^Wr1-tWWHjBji'Mli!»''l>MKii 


"^wpppid* 


e." 

day." 
IT  way  "  ; 
lie, 
rn." 


ending  low  "  ; 
sure  Line," 
Line." 


"wwr?r 


-L 


^i/Miii^iiKi,  -^«^#«*vi'-,i«;v^ 


